So last fall I acquired a very (very) used Colt MkIV Series 70. I have reason to believe it was a kitchen table gun smiths "race gun" Anyways, aside from some feeding issues that I believe to magazine related it runs well and I really like it (I wanted a 1911 since I was a little kid). However, some of the parts on it are, shall we say, not to my taste. So with that in mind I'm looking to give her some TLC and a bit of a new lease on life. As I look at parts online I'm wondering do I need to worry about things like grip safeties or extractors being specific enough that they won't fit the gun. I'm expecting there to be some fitting required that isn't a big deal, but I don't want to get parts that won't fit at all. Any help would be appreciated.
Question about 1911 parts?
- Thread starter rkm456
- Start date
If it is a series 70 then make sure they are series 70 parts.
Extractors, Firing Pin Stops, Disconnector, Sear, Grip Safety and Hammer parts are specific to the series.
Most other parts are interchangeable between 70 and 80 series.
If you order from Brownell's, they are very good at listing in their Specifications what the parts fit.
Extractors, Firing Pin Stops, Disconnector, Sear, Grip Safety and Hammer parts are specific to the series.
Most other parts are interchangeable between 70 and 80 series.
If you order from Brownell's, they are very good at listing in their Specifications what the parts fit.
I'm not a gun smith, but I've fiddled around with a few 1911's (I've liked them since I was a little kid, too). So long as the frame hasn't been altered - the vast majority of "stock" 1911 parts, should fit without issue.
The caveat being - what Paul said about series 70's and 80's.
The caveat being - what Paul said about series 70's and 80's.
Look deeper into the Specs section (beside the Description Tab) of the part.
For example this one says 70 or 80/90 in the Specs section
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...+Outside+USA&avs|Manufacturer_1=wilson+combat
Hammers depend on the grip safety as well. If you have a high beavertail grip safety you need a commander style or custom tipless hammer
WC Commander hammer fits both 70/80 series (again see the Specs)
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...+Outside+USA&avs|Manufacturer_1=wilson+combat
I've been putting a lot of WC parts on my series 80 National Match. They are great parts. None have been true 'drop in' though other than firing pin, extended mag release and recoil springs and other springs, etc. Slide lock needed fitting (I did it myself with a 1911 gunsmith jig I purchased), drop in beavertail I screwed up so bad I decided to buy the real one and have a gunsmith cut the frame for it and fit it 'properly'. The drop in beavertail is not a 'drop in' part.
Last edited:
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
IMO, if the purpose is just to resurrect a beater Series 70, and learn about its operating principles, the OP should just buy the cheapest GI 1911 parts (or similar) from Brownells. They'd probably drop-in with no problems. Complete spring sets are also available. The idea is to get the cheapest, non-match quality parts.
In another life, I used to play around "fixing" buggered up sears and hammers by simply replacing them with GI parts bought from the local gun shop. Replacing barrel links can be a challenge as they have different center-to-center distances and hundredth or two of an inch can mean a good or bad barrel to slide fit.
Series 70 had collet barrel bushing but you could fit a solid non-collet.
After replacing trigger, sear, hammer, there could be a lot of play or creep. but usually the gun worked. Thumb safeties almost always needed some filing/fitting, as well as the grip safety. But that was realatively easy.
In another life, I used to play around "fixing" buggered up sears and hammers by simply replacing them with GI parts bought from the local gun shop. Replacing barrel links can be a challenge as they have different center-to-center distances and hundredth or two of an inch can mean a good or bad barrel to slide fit.
Series 70 had collet barrel bushing but you could fit a solid non-collet.
After replacing trigger, sear, hammer, there could be a lot of play or creep. but usually the gun worked. Thumb safeties almost always needed some filing/fitting, as well as the grip safety. But that was realatively easy.
Last edited:
