Is this what is causing my extracting issue?

Gnome75

Gnome75

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I have a BSA mini martini 12 or 13 that has had issues ejecting. this is as far as it comes out

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After looking closer at it I noticed this.

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To me it looks like a bur/mushroom was formed from dry firing. (Not from me. It never extracted properly)

Am I wrong to think that this is normal or do I take a file to it and make it smooth?

Does any one have a better suggestion than just take a file to it?
 
If its not marking the cases , maybe that's not your problem? Brass is pretty soft and would scratch easily I would think , if it's coming in contact with a burr. Still , that burr shouldn't be there . You should post pictures and ask in the gun smithing section . There are some very knowledgeable gentlemen that frequently help people out in there .
 
triggerman42 said:
If its not marking the cases , maybe that's not your problem? Brass is pretty soft and would scratch easily I would think , if it's coming in contact with a burr. Still , that burr shouldn't be there . You should post pictures and ask in the gun smithing section . There are some very knowledgeable gentlemen that frequently help people out in there .
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That's a good idea. I will try that
 
You could get something very similar -- perhaps even the same -- as the tool suggested by Rabid in post #3. Killough Shooting Sports has something they call a ".22 Chamber Ironing Swage", which, according to KSS, "Swages out burrs in .22 chambers caused by excessive dry firing." Regarding international shipping, the web site says "Killough Shooting Sports can export certain items. We are NOT able to export firearms, scopes, stocks, or ammunition but we can export most of our other items." See h t t p://www.killoughshootingsports.com/index.php/22-chamber-ironing-swage.html
 
Gnome75 said:
I have the basic tools to do basic stuff. I can do oil changes and build wooden fence gates but as far as altering drill bits, its out of my league
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This is all it is right here, just need a bench grinder & a #1 bit (they are .228" which is perfect). You can even still use the bit since you only take off enough to fit in the chamber:


For comparison sake this is the end of one of those chamber irons (I have one and honestly it doesn't do a better job than the drill bit trick - the advantage is the leverage and as someone else pointed out you can fabricate one with that handle); it doesn't really show up there but there is a flat on it just like the modified drill bit. Sorry for the crappy photo - the hex you see doesn`t enter the chamber (lets you get a wrench on it). It is the same idea as the drill bit, although the smooth part (with the flat on it) that goes into the chamber is heavily tapered:


I also have a chamber reamer but I haven't resorted to using it to fix any of the dry fired chambers I've used these tools on; I'd rather move the metal back in place. I could ream 'em but would rather not. The other advantage is that sometimes the dryfiring has displaced metal behind where the firing pin strikes leading to misfires. This moves the metal back and can fix that problem as well.
 
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