Crimping with a seating die vs factory crimp die

meathook

meathook

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Going to start reloading for my ar.
Was wondering if I should be getting a factory crimp die? Currently have rcbs fl two die set.
Any real difference between seating and crimping simultaneously with the seating die, or seat then crimp
With a crimp die.
Also, what to do about bullets that don't have a cannelure? My rifle likes hornady 75gr bthp match, so I wanted to try loading some of them.
Have both single stage press as well as lnl ap
 
There are many more expert on this than me, but I have crimped with a seating die and with a factory crimp die, and the factory crimp die does a better job for me. Ymmv. I have also crimped bullets with and without cannelure, you just have to be a little more careful.
 
separate crimp die is much better, as the factory/taper crimp will resize the brass too

the roll crimp doesn't do that

works better for pistols though
 
My experience.

If using an extruded powder like 4895, RL15 or Varget, I don't crimp at all.

Take a loaded, uncrimped round and push the rounds into the bench. If you can't push it in, it is tight enough.

If you can move it, but it takes a good effort to do it, just polish your expander ball, to make the neck a bit tighter.

If I load light bullets with ball powder, I do use a crimp to help ignition. For that I use a factory crimp because for that application I use untrimmed brass of variable length.

You can lightly crimp a 75 gr bullet if you want.

MY heavy bullet AR rounds are not crimped.

AR15 with a 20" heavy Rock River barrel
IMG_1095%202.jpg


Second from the back
IMG_1874.jpg
 
I crimp my .223 just slightly with Lee factory crimper because I use 4895 with 52 gr bullets and the loads are compressed. I worry they may 'push out' over time. I say slightly because it barely touches the neck.
 
Ganderite said:
My experience.

If using an extruded powder like 4895, RL15 or Varget, I don't crimp at all.

Take a loaded, uncrimped round and push the rounds into the bench. If you can't push it in, it is tight enough.

If you can move it, but it takes a good effort to do it, just polish your expander ball, to make the neck a bit tighter.

If I load light bullets with ball powder, I do use a crimp to help ignition. For that I use a factory crimp because for that application I use untrimmed brass of variable length.

You can lightly crimp a 75 gr bullet if you want.

MY heavy bullet AR rounds are not crimped.

AR15 with a 20" heavy Rock River barrel
IMG_1095%202.jpg


Second from the back
IMG_1874.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice
I'm reloading for my rock river a4 varmint 20"
Looks like the same rifle but different hand guard
I'll have to find some of the powder you used
I'll probably end up getting the crimp die since I'm hoping to utilize my progressive for .223 eventually
Was that saami length seating depth?
 
As the OP is loading jacketed for a box mag I agree with the factory crimp die (altho roll will do the job adequately as well) recommendation. When loading cast for a revolver or tube mag I use exclusively a very significant roll crimp.
 
I much prefer to separate the bullet seating and crimping operations. It makes for less fiddly adjustment of one or the other. That said, I do all my reloading on a Dillon 550, so there is no extra work in separating the steps.

As mentioned above, you may not even need to crimp. I have run lots of .223 out of an AR-15 and .308 out of an M14 with no crimp and good results.
 
Thanks for all the good info fellas. Just for a little added clarification, is there a difference in the profile of the crimp you get from a seating die to factory crimp die?
 
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