Spanish Double

Had a look at it today. Marked as having mod and extra full choke but measures cyl/cyl. Would have been pretty sweet to open the chokes a bit when it was 2 1/2" longer. Barrels are slim so no option of installing thin wall chokes. Would it be bad form to post photos of barrel flats and water table when its a gunshop gun? Receiver stamped D1 for 1958.
 
Londonshooter said:
Had a look at it today. Marked as having mod and extra full choke but measures cyl/cyl. Would have been pretty sweet to open the chokes a bit when it was 2 1/2" longer. Barrels are slim so no option of installing thin wall chokes. Would it be bad form to post photos of barrel flats and water table when its a gunshop gun? Receiver stamped D1 for 1958.
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No it wouldn't.
But now we know why it isn't selling .
 
gunsaholic said:
No it wouldn't.
But now we know why it isn't selling .
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I actually bought a very nice AYA #2 on consignment for a great price, largely in part due to someone using a brass choke gauge to measure the chokes, and then telling people that the chokes had been opened up. In reality, the chokes were unaltered, but the person didn't appear to realize that you can't be sure of the constriction without measuring the bore as well. I actually patterned the gun , and the patterns were what they should be for the markings on the gun.
 
Yes, you need to know the bore measurements to know the choke for certain. But at 23 1/2" barrels, I'd bet the chokes are cyl and cyl now. But I suppose it could be a good bush gun as long as there are no other issues.
 
I have a factory ordered Spanish double that is cyl/IC. It's my woodcock gun. Open isn't always bad. I would use the fact that it is cut as leverage on price though. Good ol Bubba never sleeps...
 
dilly said:
I have a factory ordered Spanish double that is cyl/IC. It's my woodcock gun. Open isn't always bad. I would use the fact that it is cut as leverage on price though. Good ol Bubba never sleeps...
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In fact I told him if he doesn't want it then it might be my next woodcock gun but would have to get over the suckage of that barrel slaughter. Would be decent in the early season for poking through the alders and everything is fast and close. There's also a heavy cast off to the stock so not going to be for everybody.
 
stubblejumper said:
It sounds like someone butchered that gun.
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They did and it was scratched to hell. Damn shame, I was interested but the inability to add chokes and the additional repair work made me bow out. $400 sounds like a deal until you factor in refinishing the metal and wood. I'm fairly handy but I just ain't got the time these days...

And a shout out to Londonshooter for saving me 4 hours of driving, I owe ya a drink next time I'm out London way!
 
Wulfgard said:
They did and it was scratched to hell. Damn shame, I was interested but the inability to add chokes and the additional repair work made me bow out. $400 sounds like a deal until you factor in refinishing the metal and wood. I'm fairly handy but I just ain't got the time these days...

And a shout out to Londonshooter for saving me 4 hours of driving, I owe ya a drink next time I'm out London way!
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You are better off walking away. Even if you are capable of doing the needed work, in the end it is still a gun with chopped off barrels. There are better choices out there.
 
sold!

Couldn't help myself and went back for this little bush gun. Will carry it in foul weather and thick woods without worrying too much about devaluing it. A bit of a diamond in the rough but shines up ok and originally was a pretty decent gun. Dried up recoil pad has Zabala logo so its staying until it disintegrates.
The gunsmith had filled the exposed gap between the barrels with some silver solder.

Muzzles measure .662 and .662 so a little silly having two triggers. 3 applications of Renaissance wax with lots of buffing and most of the finish crazing and fine scratches are much less apparent. I'll post some more photos in the Show-us-your-doubleguns thread.
 
Londonshooter said:
Couldn't help myself and went back for this little bush gun. Will carry it in foul weather and thick woods without worrying too much about devaluing it. A bit of a diamond in the rough but shines up ok and originally was a pretty decent gun. Dried up recoil pad has Zabala logo so its staying until it disintegrates.
The gunsmith had filled the exposed gap between the barrels with some silver solder.

Muzzles measure .662 and .662 so a little silly having two triggers. 3 applications of Renaissance wax with lots of buffing and most of the finish crazing and fine scratches are much less apparent. I'll post some more photos in the Show-us-your-doubleguns thread.
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I'm interested in this renaissance wax. The pictures you posted in the other thread appear to show a different gun because of the wax treatment.

Is it really that effective at restoring stocks? Metal finish?

Do you prep the surfaces in any way prior to applying renaissance wax?
 
leveractionjunkie said:
I'm interested in this renaissance wax. The pictures you posted in the other thread appear to show a different gun because of the wax treatment.

Is it really that effective at restoring stocks? Metal finish?

Do you prep the surfaces in any way prior to applying renaissance wax?
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I use Conservator's Wax from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20090&cat=1,190,42950&ap=1).
Its cheaper than Renaissance Wax and is said to be just as good.

I use it on the wood and on the steel.
 
ninepointer said:
I use Conservator's Wax from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20090&cat=1,190,42950&ap=1).
Its cheaper than Renaissance Wax and is said to be just as good.

I use it on the wood and on the steel.
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Pretty sure Lee valley does not carry it anymore which is why I went to Ren. Stuff is pH neutral so considered safer than vegetable-based waxes. Like the LV product, Ren is used by museums as a protectant. Really liking it to put a preservative coat over all external surfaces especially those that can rust. Longer protection than any oil. Each time you apply, the solvent redissolves the old layer and lifts off any grime. I have caustic sweat so that's why I started to use it and very satisfied. 200g costs $35 which seems pretty rich but will last average person a very long time.
No prep necessary.
 
Londonshooter said:
Pretty sure Lee valley does not carry it anymore which is why I went to Ren. Stuff is pH neutral so considered safer than vegetable-based waxes. Like the LV product, Ren is used by museums as a protectant. Really liking it to put a preservative coat over all external surfaces especially those that can rust. Longer protection than any oil. Each time you apply, the solvent redissolves the old layer and lifts off any grime. I have caustic sweat so that's why I started to use it and very satisfied. 200g costs $35 which seems pretty rich but will last average person a very long time.
No prep necessary.
Click to expand...

ninepointer said:
I use Conservator's Wax from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20090&cat=1,190,42950&ap=1).
Its cheaper than Renaissance Wax and is said to be just as good.

I use it on the wood and on the steel.
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I use Renaissance Wax on the wood and steel and it works well. I read it helps preserve CCH. I also read that the Lee Valley Conservator's Wax was basically the same thing and a much better price. Too bad if it is discontinued.
 
Have been shooting this Zabala at clays for a couple months now and its a gem. Did not previously have any experience with 16 ga. other than my hunting buddy when I was younger dropped ducks as if he was shooting a 12. I like it to the point that have a guilty conscience about did I do the OP a disservice with my assessment of this gun and was thinking should give him the chance to buy it at my cost. I looked up my report PM though and it puts that guilt trip to rest. No regrets.


I wonder how tough it would be to get a set of 16 gauge invectors from browning and get the barrels threaded. Appreciate the help John.

Wes[/QUOTE]

Wes, had a look today. That is a pretty decent quality shotgun! Or used to be. Bluing and metal are good. has a couple scratches into the wood on the stocks but no cracks that I could see. Locks up tight and has extractors, cocking indicators, bushed firing pins, crossbolt lock, gold-washed triggers, decent engraving, walnut figure is above average by today's standards. Action is tight. Don't think it has been shot much. manufacture date 1958. I believe its built on a 16ga frame.

Now the bad. Obviously the recoil pad is dried out. There is a lot of cast-off to the stock so if you shoot left you will never hit anything with it. If you shoot right and have a slim face there's probably too much cast. The finish is shiny with lots of scratches.
Now the really bad: barrels were cut and are now cyl/cyl and there's not enough barrel wall thickness to install thin wall chokes.

What it would be good for, honestly, is very much limited to woodcock in heavy cover. It won't swing well because too whippy with the short light barrels. Pattern density with no chokes is not going to be good for anything outside 20 yards.
In other words, if you don't want it I will buy it for myself to shoot woodcock. (maybe. its always going to suck that somebody cut it short)
 
Dang shame I was offline, I've been working in Brantford lately on a solar job. But they put me up in a hotel and I didn't want a hassle so I left the 840 and 870 at home.
 
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