Do tikkas hold up

I have not heard anybody mention the recall on T3 SS rifles back in 2004, included Canada as well. Barrels were blowing up.
You can pick up a new Sauer 100 for $100 more than a Tikka T3. A Sauer is a lot more gun for an extra $100. There is no comparison between a Tikka and a Sauer. No question Tikka's are a functional rifle, just nothing special.
I have 2 Husky 1900's, smoothest action and extremely accurate.
 
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I don't mind the x bolt at all. It's the trigger that would fend me off. I'm not a fan whatsoever of those browning triggers. If yiur happy with it then by all means. The gun and action seems good for a hunting rifle. If I was gonna upgrade the gun for distance shooting or any thing else? Tikka instead.
 
Aftermarket support for browning hutnting rifles is awful compared to tikka or other guns. So if yiur keeping her stock factory comfiguration then power to ya
 
I thought it was nice, is there something I should be weary of.

Did you try the trigger?

I've found XBolt triggers to be a bit variable.

I've never seen one with detectable take-up or overtravel, which is nice, but they seem to run randomly between 2 and 4 pounds, and the adjustment doesn't do diddly.

In general, I like the Xbolt trigger.
 
I'm not a fan of Browning's bolt, particularly if the rifle is going to be used in difficult, wet, cold, conditions. IMHO, a rifle bolt should be maintainable with a minimum of tools, and grief. The Browning's bolt does not meet this expectation. There is a silly spring that is passed off as an extractor retainer. This thing immediately falls out, usually unexpectedly and unseen, as soon as the bolt head is removed from the bolt body. Since there is nothing to keep it in place, the loss of the exceedingly small extractor is then inevitable. Even if you could manage to strip the silly thing in the field, something of a challenge in itself, in an effort to resolve a problem such as a freezing bolt from rain, or condensation combined with dropping temperatures, losing the extractor is a show stopper. What would have been wrong with a cross pin retainer? Where there is a cross pin (the one that holds the bolt head in place) there is a potential for not getting the firing pin passageway lined up true, since there is no index to do so, and the resulting friction could reduce firing pin velocity, and cause misfires. A separate bolt head that threads into the bolt body would have resolved the problem, by dispensing of the cross pin, and the need for a hammer and a pin punch set. I get that the Browning is a slick and smooth bolt action, and has the popular, if useless, 60 degree lift, and all those good things, but if you gave me one, I couldn't afford to say thank you.
 
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I'm not a fan of Browning's bolt, particularly if the rifle is going to be used in difficult, wet, cold, conditions. IMHO, a rifle bolt should be maintainable with a minimum of tools, and grief. The Browning's bolt does not meet this expectation. There is a silly spring that is passed off as an extractor retainer. This thing immediately falls out, usually unexpectedly and unseen, as soon as the bolt head is removed from the bolt body. Since there is nothing to keep it in place, the loss of the exceedingly small extractor is then inevitable. Even if you could manage to strip the silly thing in the field, something of a challenge in itself, in an effort to resolve a problem such as a freezing bolt from rain, or condensation combined with dropping temperatures, losing the extractor is a show stopper. What would have been wrong with a cross pin retainer? Where there is a cross pin (the one that holds the bolt head in place) there is a potential for not getting the firing pin passageway lined up true, since there is no index to do so, and the resulting friction could reduce firing pin velocity, and cause misfires. A separate bolt head that threaded into the bolt body would have resolved the problem, by dispensing of the cross pin, and the need for a hammer and a pin punch set. I get that the Browning is slick and smooth bolt action, and has the popular, if useless, 60 degree lift, and all those good things, but if you gave me one, I couldn't afford to say thank you.


I definitely agree the bolt should be maintainable With minimal tools thank you for pointing that out, ideally I would like to get a mauser action like a m77 hawkeye or a new m70 in 30-06 but unfortunately the m77 is discontinued the only m70 that I could find is a super grade, so I guess ill wait for a ss m70 to become available again. Or I might take another look at a tikka.

Thanks
 
I definitely agree the bolt should be maintainable With minimal tools thank you for pointing that out, ideally I would like to get a mauser action like a m77 hawkeye or a new m70 in 30-06 but unfortunately the m77 is discontinued the only m70 that I could find is a super grade, so I guess ill wait for a ss m70 to become available again. Or I might take another look at a tikka.

Thanks

M77 discontinued? I don't think so!
 
I definitely agree the bolt should be maintainable With minimal tools thank you for pointing that out, ideally I would like to get a mauser action like a m77 hawkeye or a new m70 in 30-06 but unfortunately the m77 is discontinued the only m70 that I could find is a super grade, so I guess ill wait for a ss m70 to become available again. Or I might take another look at a tikka.

Thanks

Don't disregard the M-700 Remington. The bolt has only two pieces that you need be concerned with in the field, the striker assembly, and the bolt body. The bolt is easily stripped with nothing more than a dime, or by purchasing a light and compact bolt stripping tool like this . . .


The 700 lacks the controlled round feed of the Mauser the M-70, or a Ruger, but it remains a good reliable choice, that is easily maintained in the field . . . with the exception of replacing a damaged or worn extractor. A spare Mauser extractor can be simply snapped into place, but a M-700 requires a machine shop.
 
Don't disregard the M-700 Remington. The bolt has only two pieces that you need be concerned with in the field, the striker assembly, and the bolt body. The bolt is easily stripped with nothing more than a dime, or by purchasing a light and compact bolt stripping tool like this . . .


The 700 lacks the controlled round feed of the Mauser the M-70, or a Ruger, but it remains a good reliable choice, that is easily maintained in the field . . . with the exception of replacing a damaged or worn extractor. A spare Mauser extractor can be simply snapped into place, but a M-700 requires a machine shop.


I'll look into that, from what I read Remington has a ton of after market goodies but I have also know that some of their products have some Qc issues not sure if the 700 is one of them.
 
Don't disregard the M-700 Remington. The bolt has only two pieces that you need be concerned with in the field, the striker assembly, and the bolt body. The bolt is easily stripped with nothing more than a dime, or by purchasing a light and compact bolt stripping tool like this . . .


The 700 lacks the controlled round feed of the Mauser the M-70, or a Ruger, but it remains a good reliable choice, that is easily maintained in the field . . . with the exception of replacing a damaged or worn extractor. A spare Mauser extractor can be simply snapped into place, but a M-700 requires a machine shop.

Mike,

we had a nicer or better tool at work. i have to found out which one but it was green.
 
I'll look into that, from what I read Remington has a ton of after market goodies but I have also know that some of their products have some Qc issues not sure if the 700 is one of them.

Any company that has produced the number of rifles and shotguns that Remington has is going to have some runs that are not quite as good as others. I prefer the products they made in the '80s to the ones made today, but the rifles from big green continue to be quality products, that are available at an attractive price.
 
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