Spent Shotgun Shells Tight in Chamber?

Shandley

Shandley

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Greetings!

I have an 870 from new and it's been nothing but problematic. I'm not giving up though!

I have noticed that a live shell has a smaller diameter than a spent shell, as far as the hull is concerned. And that makes sense. Expansion would happen when fired. I am fine tuning the chamber so I would like to know for those who have a spent shell: Can you insert a spent shell into your removed barrel and pull it out by hand?

I have been able to use a ballpoint pen in the extractor grove and can pull it out with some ease but if it's that tight coming out, would that impact the quality of ejection (which is the next issue to deal with)?

Range time for me is very far and few between so I am trying to nail each issue I am having with this gun.

Thanks!
Shandley
 
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There are numerous threads on the internet regarding this problem. First, if you are using cheap shells, such as Walmart value shells, that is one of the problems. Second, wrap some steel wool around a brass brush and chuck in a drill and polish the chamber.
 
There is not real issue with the chamber as far as smoothness goes.

I actually cleaned up using the steel wool, which did nothing to my advantage, followed by a wet sanding process starting at 1000 grit to 3000 following a Flitz polish. The chamber is smooth. I would say the biggest issue with the extraction was a very small lip just behind the shell when seated all the way in. The extractor pulled on once side and jammed the other side into the lip. Once that was removed, things moved much better; however, ...

I just want to know if you notice that your spent shells are not removable by hand like mine.
 
Remington makes crap nowadays. There are several youtube videos on how to fix the problem, they involve Dremel grinding and polishing the area just rear of the chamber. When you remove the barrel and shine a light down into the chamber, you will see tool marks. The rim of your shells are catching on that flaw. It is beyond ridiculous that Remington is still in business with their shoddy quality.
 
As mentioned with better quality shells I have no issues with ejection but with the "value pack" wally world shells sometimes they stick in my O/U and semi auto due to excessive expansion of the aluminum case head. Try some better quality shells like Challengers or Federal top gun and your issues may go away.
 
I suppose I am not being clear. At this point, I do not have an issue with extraction, just a question:
Can you insert a spent shell into your removed barrel and pull it out by hand?

Extraction is easy when using the pump action. Ejection MIIIIGHT be an issue. It doesn't really matter which shells I use. The area of expansion I am talking about (as mentioned in my first post) is the HULL of the shell causing some friction when pulling the shell out. I cannot pull it by hand when the barrel is removed BUT I can pull it easily with a ballpoint pen in the ejection notch. Is this similar what YOU are able to do?
 
Shandley said:
I suppose I am not being clear. At this point, I do not have an issue with extraction, just a question:
Can you insert a spent shell into your removed barrel and pull it out by hand?

Extraction is easy when using the pump action. Ejection MIIIIGHT be an issue. It doesn't really matter which shells I use. The area of expansion I am talking about (as mentioned in my first post) is the HULL of the shell causing some friction when pulling the shell out. I cannot pull it by hand when the barrel is removed BUT I can pull it easily with a ballpoint pen in the ejection notch. Is this similar what YOU are able to do?
Click to expand...

It's very common if the hulls were not fired in that gun, but other than that it shouldn't be an issue. Then again, if the hulls extract easily when cycling the action, then it teally isn't something to be concerned with .
 
I bought have 2 new Remington 870 Expresses in the past year, neither has an issue with hulls sticking. I have not polished the chamber on either, they have not needed it. Are you using Winchester Universal ammo by any chance?
 
Winchester ammo is known the be problematic wrt sticking in the chamber of many types of shotguns - its the base metal that is the problem. I've had a few Challenger stick as well. The cognoscenti in the shotgun world just stay away from the Winchester promo loads...(Keep us in suspense and don't tell us what ammo brand you are using...) If any shell sticks when coming out, it'll stick when trying to rechamber and remove it. Otherwise, a spent shell typically rechambers easily.
 
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Thanks for the replies. *googling cognoscenti... ah! I see*
I use all sorts of ammo brands and types. All of them have the hulls dragging. I have gone as far as to cut the hulls off new and spent ammo and found the metal on all of them just fall out with some ease but when I stick the hulls in, there is major drag, specifically on the front end.

Weird, eh?

What is most weird is that I have 2 barrels (one really nice Remington one (brand new and tested and polished by the guys and gals at Gaval) and a 12.5" really bad barrel that I have fine tuned to be a mirror inside AND they both do the same thing.

Here is another test I may ask you to perform:
If you fire a shot and instead of cycling the action with the pump, remove your barrel. Does your spent shell fall right out without your help?
Further to that:
If it doesn't fall right out, can you push it out just past the metal and see if it falls out then?

Thanks again!
 
Shandley said:
Thanks for the replies. *googling cognoscenti... ah! I see*
I use all sorts of ammo brands and types. All of them have the hulls dragging. I have gone as far as to cut the hulls off new and spent ammo and found the metal on all of them just fall out with some ease but when I stick the hulls in, there is major drag, specifically on the front end.

Weird, eh?

What is most weird is that I have 2 barrels (one really nice Remington one (brand new and tested and polished by the guys and gals at Gaval) and a 12.5" really bad barrel that I have fine tuned to be a mirror inside AND they both do the same thing.

Here is another test I may ask you to perform:
If you fire a shot and instead of cycling the action with the pump, remove your barrel. Does your spent shell fall right out without your help?
Further to that:
If it doesn't fall right out, can you push it out just past the metal and see if it falls out then?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
It seems to me, that you are making an issue out of something that really isn't an issue, if the hulls extract and eject when the action is cycled. It's not like there is any value in being able to push fired hulls into the chamber and remove them with your fingers.
 
I was hoping someone would say that.
When I do get to the range (trips are few and far between), I'll post an update.

Say, while I got you here, is there any good way to make the ejector spring more.... springy?
 
hard to get an answer---------I have an older wingmaster and the fired shells will drop in and out very easily, I reload so save all my own hulls because Ii don't have to resize them. Yes the cheap wallyworld shell will stick in the camber for a second or so but will come out on the second try.
 
If your Remington 870 Express does not eject vigorously, it may be more likely the extractor not holding the shell well enough to get a good bump. Some folks have had some success by installing an older style, non-MIM extractor...
 
I had an old Ithaca 37 one time that i couldn't shoot winchester trap loads. I bought it used and brought it home to try and all I had were cheapo Winchesters. Loaded her up and fired no problem but couldn't eject the shell. I tried everything including slamming it onto the ground butt first while holding the pump but still wouldn't eject.I ended up taking back to shop I bought it from and it took the gunsmith a half hour to get the empty out. They took it into the range with Remington, federal and estate trap loads to try and no problems. I've never bought winchester trap loads since.
 
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