Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

What do you want to know?
The rifle seems to have started as a 4000 on which the schnabel was removed. The stock was likely repaired by adding a crossbolt.
 
What do you want to know?
The rifle seems to have started as a 4000 on which the schnabel was removed. The stock was likely repaired by adding a crossbolt.

Sorry, I was trying to add pictures to my original post but for some reason they didn't work. My original post is #1730

Anyhow I was looking for a model. Serial number is 2500XX which should put it as being manufactured in 1961. I am almost positive that the stock has not been touched. Should this have a Schnabel? It is a 358NM so I assumed the cross bolt was factory also.

I would like to repair the alloy trigger guard as it has a few scratches. I was wondering about best methods etc. Would anodizing it be the best or cerakote? Thanks for the info!
 
Oh! I see, seems I missed your post.
The steel bottom metal does not firt the alloy one. Different footprints. Cerakote would work, anodising too, but I'd go with a paint process.

What's the barrel lenght?
Can you post a pic of the caliber marking?
 
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What do you want to know?
The rifle seems to have started as a 4000 on which the schnabel was removed. The stock was likely repaired by adding a crossbolt.

There are 2x 358's on Tradex with the same cross bolt's so it seems factory?
30517.JPG

30388.JPG

The fore-end looks wider then the Schnabel types, more like the earlier fat forends like the earlier FN98 styles had.
 
Yes, the 1651 have that crossbolt (except some early ones which have two SS crosspins).

Then, I was wrong, from the pics, I thought you had the short barrel model (4000), which was not originally chambered for that round and have no crossbolt.

With a 660 mm barrel, it's a 1651 . There should be a schnabel like the ones pictured.
 
I will take some more pictures tonight but I am pretty sure that the stock is unaltered. To remove a Schnabel front end I think that the stock would become quite thin at the front. There are also no signs of alteration with the finish etc. Was there ever a stock contour like this?
 
Well, looking closer at your pics, the stock may have started as a 1651 Special that lost it's fore end (it's a plastic fore end and is often found broken) like this one below. There is a later version with a squarish angled rosewood fore end instead of the round plastic one. But the buttplate isn't right for that model, which only came with a pad - when assembled on a rifle, anyways.

The other stock style is the one pictured by Hitzy above. I've seen those without a pad, with just a HVA bakelite plate.

I can also be an aftermarket stock, but not from HVA. If it was manufactured by HVA, it would have letters / numbers stamped in the inletting.

The distance between the nose and the sling swivel pivot may tell us if it was a Special or a Standard MC model, too.

16511.jpg


Do your rifle carry the adjustable trigger?
 
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Here's some more pictures. Looking again it seems like the Schnabel could have been sanded off although i cannot see any differences in finish.

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Looks original to me when comparing to those other 1651's, it doesn't appear shortened, sling swivel is in the same place in reference to the checkering on the forestock. If it was shortened, the swivel would have been relocated and the way it's rounded off there would still be the prior hole visible. Steel cross pin looks fancy so I'm not sure about it being original.
Markings are HVA on the stock as well.
Nice rifle, must be a bear to shoot with the plastic pad!
I think I found the same stock on a 7rm a few pages back...
Left side.

Right side
 
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And not to mangle the conversation above, I just found out they made a version in 7x64.....I want...
Repeterstudsare Modell 1640 7x64
Husqvarna 1640 action. 29mm cylindrical are towards receiver. Made for export to central Europe.
What does "29mm cylindrical are towards receiver" mean?
 
The cross pin, if not factory was well done. It's flush with the stock and fits well. With the open sights it's actuall the raised comb that hurts...last time my cheek was bruised...I've got a Redfield 2-7x33 with a tombstone rangefinder that will be going on it. It should look at home on this rifle.

Any ideas for refinishing the bottom metal? Anodizing? Ceracote? I want it to look good as new...
 
They did not produce 1600 / 1640 and 1651 with a plain round nose, the last stocks they did that way were the 640 / 1100 / 1000 and even the last 640 have the schnabel.
From 1953 they always were either with a Schnabel or with a plastic and later a rosewood end with a white spacer.
Except for the tip, it looks original.
It was common to remove a broken plastic tip or even to round up à schnabel even in the '80s... Especially on american models (like the 4000 /4100) as they are wider than the slim euro models fore ends (of the Std style). As for the finish, tgis type of finish is easy to reproduce for a professional stock fitter...
There was a lot of aftermarket parts sold through HVA though an d they even produced special replacement stocks (I'll post a replacement stock for a 640 later).
If the sling swivels are 3/4" then the rifle is a recent import and it may have gone through the HVA custom shop, but if it bares 1" swivels, then it's most likely a modified stock (as per Tradewind and even more Ruko weren't much interested on aftermarket parts other than direct replacement).

Anyhow, these rifles have seen 40 + years of handling and this does not really play with the value of the rifle as per most of these rifles are not intended to be collectors but rather usual hunting rifles and people buy them for that, usually not for being a safe queen.

Anyhow, from what I see, for me, the tip seems to have been rounded. But who knows, it may also be a custom replacement. But the this type of stock is not in period catalogs and it's not in the HVA - Tradewinds litterature neither (and THE book claims three 1651 models, one with a schable and two with plastic / rosewood tip).

The 1651 Special and Lyx both had as a standard the ajustable trigger and the recoil pas from factory. Both have the plastic / rosewood tips.
The 1651 was the plainer version and usually was with a straight comb.
The fact the stock is unusual for both styles is the reason why I do not exclude a custom (replacement) stock.
But except a collector, who really cares those details ??
 
The cross pin, if not factory was well done. It's flush with the stock and fits well. With the open sights it's actuall the raised comb that hurts...last time my cheek was bruised...I've got a Redfield 2-7x33 with a tombstone rangefinder that will be going on it. It should look at home on this rifle.

Any ideas for refinishing the bottom metal? Anodizing? Ceracote? I want it to look good as new...

Ceracote would be a good option, it's very durable.
 
I'm not worried about the value. And yes it will be a hunting rifle. More than anything it's the story...how it came to be that interests me. I guess I'll never see another like it and that's fine by me! thanks for the info!
 
I'm not worried about the value. And yes it will be a hunting rifle. More than anything it's the story...how it came to be that interests me. I guess I'll never see another like it and that's fine by me! thanks for the info!

You get the point. (y)
The HVA rifles are somewhat of a mystery for most people. The name by itself is somewhat romantic (when you know about Husqvarna).


I personally wouldn't try anodizing as the surfaces must be perfect for good results.


Here is an example of what HVA could offer as replacement stock. The buttplate is the standard HVA one, the sling swivel are genuine HVA, the inspector marks are those of HVA.
These stocks were intended to replace broken beechwood stocks. They are not very common, though. This one is for a a 640 based on the M/38 (small ring '96);

HVA_640_replacement.jpg

HVA_640_replacement_3.jpg

p1010065.jpg
 
I wouldn't try anodizing myself. But is there anyone that you know of that offers these services? Which is more durable, anodizing or paint?

I'll measure the sling swivel tonight...I'm curious...
 
A lot of gunsmith perform Cerakote (and other similar processes). Electro-static paint will also work.
Don't go with anodizing, it will be a waste of money because I saw very bad results over the years (and that's probably why HVA painted it).
 
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