I was at the range today to test and zero 4 Garands that I had assembled over the winter.
In the past I used to do a preliminary zero @ 25 yds and then move on to confirm it @ 100 yds. A few years ago I eliminated the 25 yd zero and started @ 100 yds with a mechanical zero which works gets me on paper just as well and saves a few shots in the process.
Mechanical zero for a Garand means starting with a windage setting that puts the index line on the back of the rear sight base at the middle windage point inscribed on the receiver below the rear sight base. The front sight is centered on the front sight base of the gas cylinder. Mechanical zero for elevation sets the rear sight aperture 10 clicks up from where it bottoms out on the receiver.
I use a black rectangular "bull" 8 in wide x 6 in high (black poster board)centered on a buff colored backer paper 18in wide x 20 in high. See your wallpaper store for loose rolls of cheap wallpaper that can be cut to length for a backer paper.
The mechanical zero will get you somewhere on the backer paper, or maybe the "bull", with the first shot held @ 6 o'clock on the "bull", and you can adjust zero from there using the windage and elevation knobs which have a value of 1 inch per click @ 100 yds. Sometimes the first shot from mechanical zero can be up to 8-10 inches from center of the "bull". In this case its best to zero for windage by loosening the front sight screw and sliding the front sight to one side or the other on the gas cylinder. There is an allowance on the gas cylinder for this. Taking initial windage with the front sight allows you to save the windage adjustments in the rear sight for shooting at longer distances.
Garand sights are one of the best ones ever devised with positive and predictable adjustments made with the rear sight. They need to be tight though, and with the post-WW2 style its important to do the following;
- Use the nut in the center of the windage knob to tighten the sight parts and prevent slippage. The nut is tightened to a point where both windage and elevation knobs turn with a reasonable amount of hand pressure. If the movement is too difficult back off the nut a turn and try again. The test for suitable tightness is to have movement of the sight knobs with a reasonable amount of pressure. Also, when the aperture is run up to the top of the scale it shouldn't be possible to move it down by pressing on top of the aperture with the thumb.
-Before doing any adjustments/shooting the lock knob in the center of the elevation knob must be tight. To tighten it wrap the knob with a piece of leather to prevent marring and secure it with a pair of pliers while tightening down the center screw.
3 of the 4 rifles that I zeroed today essentially wound up 3 inches high with a 6 o'clock hold on the bull using the mechanical zero with a 2 to 4 clicks for windage and elevation. Preliminary windage adjustment for the fourth rifle was taken with the front sight because it was too far off mechanical zero for windage. Basically it was 3 shots per rifle with adjustments to zero, then to groups.
Make sure you have an Allen wrench to fit the front sight screw and it always pays to blacken both the front sight post and rear aperture before shooting. We're having a longer winter than usual here in the Okanagan and I was lucky to find all of my nice Lake City 68 Match cases in the snow.
In the past I used to do a preliminary zero @ 25 yds and then move on to confirm it @ 100 yds. A few years ago I eliminated the 25 yd zero and started @ 100 yds with a mechanical zero which works gets me on paper just as well and saves a few shots in the process.
Mechanical zero for a Garand means starting with a windage setting that puts the index line on the back of the rear sight base at the middle windage point inscribed on the receiver below the rear sight base. The front sight is centered on the front sight base of the gas cylinder. Mechanical zero for elevation sets the rear sight aperture 10 clicks up from where it bottoms out on the receiver.
I use a black rectangular "bull" 8 in wide x 6 in high (black poster board)centered on a buff colored backer paper 18in wide x 20 in high. See your wallpaper store for loose rolls of cheap wallpaper that can be cut to length for a backer paper.
The mechanical zero will get you somewhere on the backer paper, or maybe the "bull", with the first shot held @ 6 o'clock on the "bull", and you can adjust zero from there using the windage and elevation knobs which have a value of 1 inch per click @ 100 yds. Sometimes the first shot from mechanical zero can be up to 8-10 inches from center of the "bull". In this case its best to zero for windage by loosening the front sight screw and sliding the front sight to one side or the other on the gas cylinder. There is an allowance on the gas cylinder for this. Taking initial windage with the front sight allows you to save the windage adjustments in the rear sight for shooting at longer distances.
Garand sights are one of the best ones ever devised with positive and predictable adjustments made with the rear sight. They need to be tight though, and with the post-WW2 style its important to do the following;
- Use the nut in the center of the windage knob to tighten the sight parts and prevent slippage. The nut is tightened to a point where both windage and elevation knobs turn with a reasonable amount of hand pressure. If the movement is too difficult back off the nut a turn and try again. The test for suitable tightness is to have movement of the sight knobs with a reasonable amount of pressure. Also, when the aperture is run up to the top of the scale it shouldn't be possible to move it down by pressing on top of the aperture with the thumb.
-Before doing any adjustments/shooting the lock knob in the center of the elevation knob must be tight. To tighten it wrap the knob with a piece of leather to prevent marring and secure it with a pair of pliers while tightening down the center screw.
3 of the 4 rifles that I zeroed today essentially wound up 3 inches high with a 6 o'clock hold on the bull using the mechanical zero with a 2 to 4 clicks for windage and elevation. Preliminary windage adjustment for the fourth rifle was taken with the front sight because it was too far off mechanical zero for windage. Basically it was 3 shots per rifle with adjustments to zero, then to groups.
Make sure you have an Allen wrench to fit the front sight screw and it always pays to blacken both the front sight post and rear aperture before shooting. We're having a longer winter than usual here in the Okanagan and I was lucky to find all of my nice Lake City 68 Match cases in the snow.
