New Deer/Moose Rifle- Tikka vs Savage

-Doug-

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
7   0   0
Hello all,
I am looking to buy a .308 or 30.06 rifle for deer/moose and have a couple questions for the experts here.
I have so far been considering the following rifles:

1. Tikka T3 lite synthetic (blue or stainless)
2. Tikka T3X lite synthetic (blue or stainless)
3. Savage 11/111 FCNS
4. Savage 16/116 FCNS

Here is some background prior to my questions:

Regarding Tikka
-held the T3X and thought it was rather light and the stock was cheap feeling (just wasn't anything substantial with no "wow" this feels nice factor) not saying it's bad or anything
-willing to find a T3 to save money and put it towards a better scope but T3s are hard to find
-felt very top/barrel heavy and not balanced (no scope on)

Regarding Savage:
-haven't held one yet
-hoping it feel a little more substantial
-not set on the 11/111 or 16/116 but don't want a budget axis

Regarding Hunting
-range 0-200 yards
-lots of hiking
-all weather conditions (which why I want synthetic)
-Budget for rifle/scope $1600ish (less is preferred)

Questions:
Q1. Is stainless worth the money
Q2. How's the recoil/balance with the tikka after the scope is on?
Q3. Do you need special scope mount and for the T3X and if so how much are they roughly
Q4. Tikka or Savage does it really matter or will I be set with both
Q5. Other rifle suggestions

Any info appreciated,
Thanks

Doug
 
On a gun that I use the most I went with stainless, I like the look of a properly made wood and blued rifle. I like tikka a little better than savage, both usually shoot well. If it were me making this choice I would look for a tikka in 30-06. I have had a couple of savage and tikka with the tupperware stocks, I liked my stainless tikka with the laminate stock the best. All but one are sold off and the last savage will be up for sale soon. I used them to fund other rifles.
 
I have or have owned both the T3 and Savage 16/116. The T3s have been .204R and .300WSM and have been rock solid reliably. The T3 synthetic stock is much better then the new T3x, I usually ditch them in favour after-market ones or I source factory wood versions pretty quick.

I've also owned a Savage in 16/116 but it was in .270w but never turned a round with it. However I have owned other models of Savages notably the 10 Predator, FCPK and they were extremely accurate out of the box with factory offerings which is typical of Savage. The synthetic stock on the Savage is only marginally better than the T3, but a whole lote better the the T3x. Your milage on either brands stock may vary.

To answer your questions;

1 - imo yes SS is an asset if your rough on your gear and/or hunt in less than hospitable climates.

2 - can't comment on either the .308/30-06 recoil as I never owned Tikkas in those Cals. The .300WSM Tikka is a little sharp, it would fare better in a LSS/Hunter version with the wood soaking up some recoil. The .204R is childs play.. pull the trigger and watch the hole appear on paper or Yotes ;-)

3 - only if you choose to go the Sako/Tikka Opti-lock ring/base system but it's not mandatory for them. Others will fit just fine.

4 - Tikka/Savage or Savage/Tikka really doesn't matter. The Savage action is not as buttery smooth to cycle as the Tikka, but the Savage is like a Timex watch. It's takes a beating and keeps on going. Not to say the Tikka won't either. Both of these brands have functioned well for me from the bench, to the hardwoods, to -20 Coyote sets. If you end up with the first gen Tikka T3, do yourself a favour and preventative maintenance before hand and ditch the plastic bolt shroud in favour of a metal one.

5 - Weatherby Vanguard S2 might be worth a look as it's a comparable competitor to the Tikka & Savage.

If it was me and I was set on the Tikka, I'd look around the EE or sponsors for a used Tikka T3 and spend the difference on upgraded Optics. Conversely the Savage 16/116 would get the nod if I was swaying the Savage route. In the end either the T3 or 16/116 will serve you well in the calibers your looking at.

Cheers
 
I had a t3 in 30-06, wood stock, recoil turned me off, big time. I have owned a few rifles in the -06 but none has kicked like that tikka. It's gone even though the trigger was the nicest factory trigger I've ever touched, accuracy was no better and not as good as some of the savage rifles I've owned. Hated the tikka safety, I will not own another. My 2 cents.
 
How cold does it get where you hunt? I've heard about issues with the tikka in extreme cold. Like, won't fire at -30 sorta issues...
 
Having owned both, well the tikka was a T3 hunter, only one of those will ever again be an option for me.... tikka all the way
 
Toss both those in the trash...look for a nice Husqvarna 1600/1640 at Tradex that has been around for 50+ years already and will last several more lifetimes with care.
 
Tikka is a much nicer rifle than any production rifle in the sub 1K mark. Actions are as smooth as butter, triggers are fantastic out of the box, accuracy is consistently sub MOA. Any upgrades from new bolts, shrouds, magazine conversions can be done at home in less then 5 mins. Aftermarket support is awesome. Down the road you can change a barrel and go into a long or short action cal if the bolt face is right. Everyone Ive owned has shot exceptionally well with very little load development.
Ive owned them all, in fact my last purchase was an $1800 Ruger but none have compared to my Tikka's.
 
Of the two, I pick tikka. Not the new t3x which I feel is overpriced but if you can find a t3 for $750ish it is a good rifle in that price range. I own a few savages and tikkas and i just prefer the tikka despite my user name. Nice triggers, excellent accuracy and reliability and hold their value well.
 
Of the models listed I would be buying a used stainless tikka t3 in 30-06. If you don't like the factory plastic stock, buy a stainless Hunter or you can buy a better composite like wildcat or even a b&c.
 
I've owned the t3 in 270 and a Savage in 30-06.
The Savage was nicely made and finished but i preferred the tikka overall especially for hunting.
However even in 270 winchester recoil was about my max tolerable level.
So I'd go with the t3 of the two. Therefore consider choosing the 308 over the 30-06 for that reason.
At your price level though you're in the range of the browning xbolt and the winchester extreme whatever in stainless /synthetic albeit maybe used.
I'd look into those for sure if I were you.
Watch the EE something will come along at your price level ready to go I'm sure.
 
I have owned both, still have a couple of Tikkas 338wm and a 308 will probably never have another Savage, The recoil on the 338 is significant, not a problem for me with a limbsaver but would be without it, I do a lot of walking and really appreciate a rifle that is under 7 pounds, I would not pay the prices that are being asked for the new T3x but would as others have suggested buy used. I have weaver bases for the 308 (cheap) with a synthetic stock and scoped with a 2-7 VX2 , I have a Skinner peep on the 338 with a Forest stock (raised cheek piece), both rifles are intended as "lightweight" carry rifles for thicker bush and timber. I would suggest that not being impressed with the way the Tikka feels is a concern and I would keep shopping until I found a rifle that did give me that Wow feeling there are a lot of choices out there, take your time.
 
Of the models listed I would be buying a used stainless tikka t3 in 30-06. If you don't like the factory plastic stock, buy a stainless Hunter or you can buy a better composite like wildcat or even a b&c.

^^ This ^^ The Hunter (walnut) is a nice upgrade from all the plastic on the T3 Lite. May have to consider a Limbsaver as well.
 
How cold does it get where you hunt? I've heard about issues with the tikka in extreme cold. Like, won't fire at -30 sorta issues...

The Rangers had better hope not!

Misfiring in the cold is indeed a maintenance or ammo issue. Think about it; the rifle is fired by releasing the sear that holds back the spring loaded firing pin. If grease is present inside the bolt, and these rifles do receive an application of long term storage grease at the factory, the speed of the firing pin is reduced, resulting in light primer strikes. If the ammo is assembled with thick cup primers, the problem is exasperated.
 
Actually Boomer this is NOT a maintenance problem, it is or at least was a Tikka problem. 3 of my son's bison hunting buddies had T3s that would not fire in minus 30 even after my boy went through them, with me on the other end of the phone. Bolts were stripped and cleaned with Brakekleen and a couple drops of diesel in the necessary spots, fire fine at 0 no fire at -30..........Phil (medvedqc) was working at the LGS at the same time and he had a couple returned same problem couldn't sort it out either. Boys were using factory ammo, don't know what kind.......Never looked at one personally but I suspect that cold contraction is tightening up a tolerance somewhere until something is binding.
 
Back
Top Bottom