Question about percussion caps

freedomintheskies

CGN Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
58   0   1
Hi 'Gunners,

As a total newbie to black powder, I have a question regarding percussion caps. When firing the lock without any powder charge or ball, is it normal for a #11 percussion cap to "blow out" on the sides? I did this on a rifle I just bought and it sort of concerned me that if powder and ball were loaded, there could be shrapnel from the fired cap flying around. I understand that I need to wear eye protection anyways, but this just looks plain dangerous.

Cheerz!
 
You want the cap to split or shatter some because it gets old prying them off with a knife or pliers.
Some are actually scored around the circumference to make sure they split.
 
Some like Remington have the the outside surface covered with ridges like a coin. Possibly from the process or to help grip.

Musket caps and 1 or 2 brands of #11 that I've used have 4 cuts all the way up the sides and right through the metal.
They work really well in that they split and flare out without losing any fragments.
 
It's normal for the cap to split when firing, and even fall off the nipple when the hammer is re-cocked.
Often, with ball and powder, it will flare out enough to lightly stick inside the cup of the hammer, and you may have to flick it out.

Some cap brands don't split, which can be annoying if you have to pry them off.
However, #11 caps (or #10) shouldn't fragment enough to send bits of copper flying off.
If that happens then there is a problem.

I once had a kit .50 cal. long rifle where the #11 cap was not only blown off, but the hammer was blown to half-####, when the rifle was fired with normal loads.
The original Italian nipple was replaced with a quality aftermarket one and the problem was resolved.
 
Last edited:
For just "snapping a cap" with no back pressure from the empty chamber I would be a bit concerned if the cap split and "petalled" out a lot. It sort of suggests that the nipple or the passage to the chamber is restricted or blocked. The times I've "snapped a cap" on an empty chamber I've never had the cap do more than expand out slightly or at worst just split in one or two places but still hold most of its original shape.
 
CCI caps are made from light material. May be aluminum. They tend to fragment on firing and are easy to remove from a rifle but can cause jams on a BP revolver. CVA caps are a harder material, possibly brass or brass alloy mix and seem to retain their shape better when fired. Some times needing a thumb nail or knife to remove. Eye protection is a must whatever BP iron you are firing. Flintlock guys tend to have dirty faces when they are done shooting.
 
CCI caps are made from light material. May be aluminum. They tend to fragment on firing and are easy to remove from a rifle but can cause jams on a BP revolver. CVA caps are a harder material, possibly brass or brass alloy mix and seem to retain their shape better when fired. Some times needing a thumb nail or knife to remove. Eye protection is a must whatever BP iron you are firing. Flintlock guys tend to have dirty faces when they are done shooting.

I've seen no signs that CCI and Remington caps are made from anything other than copper or a slight alloy variation on copper. I can't comment on CVA caps.
 
Back
Top Bottom