First Cleaning Of New Rimfire

The crown is what I worry about when people talk about reversing the brushes. Yes dragging contaminants thru the bore again is bad enough. I had thought that people knew that crown damage can occur from this practice.

Savvy?
 
Crown damage from pulling a brush back through the bore is debatable. Explain the mechanism by which it would occur and reference a credible source, please?

Again, I'd be much more concerned with leaving the end of the rod unsupported and therefore dragging across the bottom of the crown and the rifling.

Hopefully one has the sense to patch out all loose fouling/primer residue before brushing to tackle lead deposits and carbon. I'm not concerned about running a dirty brush, patches are used for clean up after the brush.
 
Dewey rods have a hard plastic coating to prevent damage when withdrawing the empty rod down the bore. Bore guides also help :)

Some mops and jags have a steel collar, when pushed through the bore and retracted the steel collar can come into contact with the crown. Credible reference would be in observing this happening. If you want a white paper, feel free to write one :)
 
Dewey rods have a hard plastic coating to prevent damage when withdrawing the empty rod down the bore. Bore guides also help :)

Some mops and jags have a steel collar, when pushed through the bore and retracted the steel collar can come into contact with the crown. Credible reference would be in observing this happening. If you want a white paper, feel free to write one :)

Heh, we need to hire some product application scientists to write those white papers.

I have a carbon fiber dewey rod, but it still has the brass end piece into which you screw in the cleaning supplies. Maybe that could be problematic, I dunno. I only use the rod on centerfires (my 223s), with a bore guide, and plastic brushes, and yeah now I'm thinking that pulling the brush back through is better than unscrewing it, because the plastic brush will keep it centered as it is pulled back through the crown.

Someone should invent a cleaning rod with a detachable handle, so you can just pull it straight through and out the muzzle end!


Speaking of borescopes, where do you buy one, and how much do they cost?
 
Ok, I would still like to see where you're getting that information. All I can find about 1117 steel is that Quackenbush uses it for their airgun barrels. It is interesting to note, they make big bore airguns like .458 and .58 cal. http://www.quackenbushairguns.com/steel_for_airguns.htm

From Quackenbush (http://www.quackenbushairguns.com/Airgun_barrels.htm). You missed this: Center fire rifle barrel steel, 4130/4140, chromium-molybdenum: This steel was chosen because it resists the hot, burning powder gasses and the wear of jacketed bullets. and this: "Free machining, 1117 steel: This is the steel that is used for .22 rimfire barrels".

I do not see how it would make financial sense for a large company such as Remington, Savage or Ruger, etc.. to order a separate lot of steel specifically for .22 LR production only. It would make much more sense to only order 4140 and use that for all blued steel rifle barrels.

I can assure you it makes financial sense. Those cheap Rugers 10/22, Remingtons 597, Mossbergs 802/715 etc etc do not need anything better than 1117 or even plain carbon 1018. Chrome-moly steels are heat-treatable but they are difficult to machine which would increase the manufacturing cost substantially. They are NOT needed for .22cal barrels. I have three .22cal rifles with non-stainless barrels: a Zastava M22/Z5, a TOZ-99 and a GSG Sturmgewehr 44 Schmeisser (see pics). The only one which I know for sure has a cold-forged chrome-moly barrel is the Zastava M22/Z5. By the way, the M22/Z5 was a steal for the money I paid. The Russian TOZ-99 has most likely a carbon steel barrel. The Sturmgewehr has just a small diameter steel tubing that is pressed into a zinc alloy sleeve. Definitely not chrome-moly steel. Perhaps, the higher end .22cal rifles like Anschutz have chrome-moly barrels. But you pay a price for that.

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Perhaps your cleaning regime is satisfactory for the shooting you do. I suppose you are not much of a target shooter. Would you feel ok leaving the pictured lead deposit in your chamber? Do note, this pic was taken after an overnight soak in solvent and two scrubbing sessions with a bronze brush. Lead and carbon rings in the chamber are tough $#17! An abrasive was required for removal. I've only seen this occur once, when I shot some Thunderbolts for giggles. Lubed match ammo has never done this to me.

Surely I'm a target shooter. What else could I be in my place in Ontario? I don't eat squirrels, not to many gophers around here (if at all) and my outdoor range does not allow any other targets than paper targets. I have only two lanes in my range: 100 and 25y. I don't shoot the .22cal rifles at 100y because it's a bit silly. So in essence I shoot/plink those paper targets at 25y. I do it from time to time when I need some break from shooting larger cal rifles. And I use Ballistol for cleaning which dissolves traces of copper, zinc, lead and tombac. I've never noticed any type of lead deposits in the barrels of my 22's.
 
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Heh, we need to hire some product application scientists to write those white papers.

I have a carbon fiber dewey rod, but it still has the brass end piece into which you screw in the cleaning supplies. Maybe that could be problematic, I dunno. I only use the rod on centerfires (my 223s), with a bore guide, and plastic brushes, and yeah now I'm thinking that pulling the brush back through is better than unscrewing it, because the plastic brush will keep it centered as it is pulled back through the crown.

Someone should invent a cleaning rod with a detachable handle, so you can just pull it straight through and out the muzzle end!


Speaking of borescopes, where do you buy one, and how much do they cost?

I bought an old school one used at a gunshow for 200.00 The new computer hookup type are in the 400 usd range... when i win the lottery that is :)
 
Surely I'm a target shooter. What else could I be in my place in Ontario? I don't eat squirrels, not to many gophers around here (if at all) and my outdoor range does not allow any other targets than paper targets. I have only two lanes in my range: 100 and 25y. I don't shoot the .22cal rifles at 100y because it's a bit silly. So in essence I shoot/plink those paper targets at 25y. I do it from time to time when I need some break from shooting larger cal rifles. And I use Ballistol for cleaning which dissolves traces of copper, zinc, lead and tombac. I've never noticed any type of lead deposits in the barrels of my 22's.

A 22 rifle at 100 (or 200 or 300) yards is a lot of fun!
 
Dewey rods have a hard plastic coating to prevent damage when withdrawing the empty rod down the bore. Bore guides also help :)

Some mops and jags have a steel collar, when pushed through the bore and retracted the steel collar can come into contact with the crown. Credible reference would be in observing this happening. If you want a white paper, feel free to write one :)

Once you remove your jag or brush, the bore guide cannot stop then end of the rod from touching the barrel out at the muzzle. So, if the worry is nicking the crown with the collar of your rod attachment, there are options to mitigate this risk.

A) Polish the joint between the collar and the rod so they are flush and smooth, dedicate a rod to a brush and one to a jag.
B) Only push the fitting out the muzzle the bare minimum, no need to ram out 10 inches. The collar need not even pass out the crown. A cleaning rod stop collar can be used to assist limiting your over travel.
C) Apply care and deliberate action to your cleaning technique, we're not sawing logs here. Draw the brush back into the muzzle slowly and carefully until past the crown.

Not really much to worry about if you take basic precautions.

Speaking of borescopes, where do you buy one, and how much do they cost?

Got mine from Sinclair International (US supplier, related to Brownells) $770 USD for my Hawkeye. Not for everybody, but I wouldn't be without it.

Surely I'm a target shooter. What else could I be in my place in Ontario? I don't eat squirrels, not to many gophers around here (if at all) and my outdoor range does not allow any other targets than paper targets. I have only two lanes in my range: 100 and 25y. I don't shoot the .22cal rifles at 100y because it's a bit silly. So in essence I shoot/plink those paper targets at 25y.

Yes, in the most literal sense and interpretation your are a "target shooter", nearly everyone who discharges a firearm does so aiming at a "target" of sorts, be it game, paper, metal, pop cans, plastic army men or what have you. I meant it as you are not one who takes their .22 target shooting seriously or actively pursues top accuracy with rimfire, and you have confirmed this with your statement of casual plinking/ 25 yard target shooting. Not much of an advanced cleaning discussion is going to apply to the shooting you do and the firearms you do it with. No disrespect or offense intended, just an assessment of where you are on the spectrum of shooters. What's silly about 100 yard shooting? It's great! I did some today, 9-15mph gusty wind conditions rapidly shifting. Love holding off on the 2 ring right of the bull and hitting the 3 ring on the left, then it settles down, aim center and hit the 3 ring on the right! Took me a good 20 shots just to start making sense of the wind conditions. Excellent training and practice in wind reading and hold off. Not ideal conditions for high scores, but not every competition day is ideal, now is it? Here's what I shot today:

 
Sorry for being late to my own party. I would like to thank you all for the great reading and ideas passed around. It would seem that everyone does have their own ways and ideas of cleaning. But, for now, I will heed the advice and go shoot the thing. It would appear to be ready, with the exception of me cleaning the bolt well yet as well as suggested. Thank you all again.
 
Once you remove your jag or brush, the bore guide cannot stop then end of the rod from touching the barrel out at the muzzle. So, if the worry is nicking the crown with the collar of your rod attachment, there are options to mitigate this risk.

A) Polish the joint between the collar and the rod so they are flush and smooth, dedicate a rod to a brush and one to a jag.
B) Only push the fitting out the muzzle the bare minimum, no need to ram out 10 inches. The collar need not even pass out the crown. A cleaning rod stop collar can be used to assist limiting your over travel.
C) Apply care and deliberate action to your cleaning technique, we're not sawing logs here. Draw the brush back into the muzzle slowly and carefully until past the crown.

Not really much to worry about if you take basic precautions.



Got mine from Sinclair International (US supplier, related to Brownells) $770 USD for my Hawkeye. Not for everybody, but I wouldn't be without it.



Yes, in the most literal sense and interpretation your are a "target shooter", nearly everyone who discharges a firearm does so aiming at a "target" of sorts, be it game, paper, metal, pop cans, plastic army men or what have you. I meant it as you are not one who takes their .22 target shooting seriously or actively pursues top accuracy with rimfire, and you have confirmed this with your statement of casual plinking/ 25 yard target shooting. Not much of an advanced cleaning discussion is going to apply to the shooting you do and the firearms you do it with. No disrespect or offense intended, just an assessment of where you are on the spectrum of shooters. What's silly about 100 yard shooting? It's great! I did some today, 9-15mph gusty wind conditions rapidly shifting. Love holding off on the 2 ring right of the bull and hitting the 3 ring on the left, then it settles down, aim center and hit the 3 ring on the right! Took me a good 20 shots just to start making sense of the wind conditions. Excellent training and practice in wind reading and hold off. Not ideal conditions for high scores, but not every competition day is ideal, now is it? Here's what I shot today:



Nice shooting... one in a row ;)

Since the OP is a little new, I mentioned the ferrule drag on the crown. If you read his post, you would see that he might not have a firm grasp of what you consider a basic precaution :)


But what do I know, I just own a couple off brand east germans and a few pinocchio 22 pistols. :)
 
Sorry for being late to my own party. I would like to thank you all for the great reading and ideas passed around. It would seem that everyone does have their own ways and ideas of cleaning. But, for now, I will heed the advice and go shoot the thing. It would appear to be ready, with the exception of me cleaning the bolt well yet as well as suggested. Thank you all again.

Keep the good info, toss out what doesn't work for you! Glad to have another enthusiast on the board. We all start somewhere, and .22's are the best thing going. Cheap to shoot, and challenging in their own right. WELCOME!
 
Nice shooting... one in a row ;)

??? Help me out here. What, do you want groups? Groups!??!? Ppfffffbbttt! Before you make ignorant comments, you should know what you're talking about ;) The target is intended for a monthly online match on Rimfire Central, and single shot scoring per bulls is the name of the game. You've heard of ARA targets and The Green Monster, right? Groups.... :rolleyes:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873266

Still waiting for your consistent 0.2's at 100 yards with the Walther there bud ;) I'd love to see how you'd have done shooting in today's conditions too, jeez, it's like you think I'm bragging about this target just because I posted it... It ain't even one of the high scores in the RFC match! I did better last time I shot it so I'm not even bumping up my score with it. The 3 ring there is 1 inch, last time I checked shooting MOA at 100 yards with a .22 LR was nothing to sneeze at, heck, that's better accuracy than my CZ 455's at 50 yards ;)
 
??? Help me out here. What, do you want groups? Groups!??!? Ppfffffbbttt! Before you make ignorant comments, you should know what you're talking about ;) The target is intended for a monthly online match on Rimfire Central, and single shot scoring per bulls is the name of the game. You've heard of ARA targets and The Green Monster, right? Groups.... :rolleyes:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873266

Still waiting for your consistent 0.2's at 100 yards with the Walther there bud ;) I'd love to see how you'd have done shooting in today's conditions too, jeez, it's like you think I'm bragging about this target just because I posted it... It ain't even one of the high scores in the RFC match! I did better last time I shot it so I'm not even bumping up my score with it. The 3 ring there is 1 inch, last time I checked shooting MOA at 100 yards with a .22 LR was nothing to sneeze at, heck, that's better accuracy than my CZ 455's at 50 yards ;)

Rimfire Central... that's where I recognize the username from. Say no more.

You'll be waiting a while for more Walther testing :) Working too many hours away from home. But I will add you to the list when I have something interesting to post.
 
Where is this thread going the OP asked about first cleaning how do groups and targets and personal arguments and thread bashing help this fellow with his need to know. Beats me.

R
 
*sigh* You're right ronnie, how come you always step in two pages too late before these things degenerate? I do think his concerns were fairly comprehensively addressed in the first few pages and in the article I linked to.
 
I remember when I did my first cleaning on my 597 Remmi, stripped the assembly down and took RemOil and a brush to every part. I was surprised to find metal machining chips in the trigger assembly, chamber and breech. Ran a patch through once or twice and called it good; after about 1000 rounds there's only been 3 or 4 failure to fires and that was before I discovered CCI mini mags and stingers. Love my 597.
 
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