BLR trigger job

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pescador

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Prince George
Hi guys wondering if anyone has attempted to improve the trigger pull on their BLR and what steps and or parts did you have to buy/modify to get it down to a respectable level of trigger pull. Im very mechanically inclined and I'm thinking of having a go at it on my own. have been turned down by gunsmiths in my area, one guy said its not possible the other said he didn't want to be liable if someone got killed because of it. love everything about the BLR I'm a lefty and it was really hard to find something in the caliber i like in a gun that i can operate easily. thanks for the help,


Pescador
 
absolute nightmare to work on......... they have a rake system inside the actions and getting the timing back in correctly
each time you reassemble it to test the trigger adjustments is a terrible thing.
I would not recommend you try it yourself.
sst
 
My BLR is still off by a notch or two from the one time I tried to do a full disassembly.... it was the one and hopefully only time I've had to go to a gunsmith with a zip lock bag full of parts. He made me promise to never attempt that again.
 
Send it to Rob Wise here in Ontario. He did my 358, took it from 6.5lbs to a pretty good 4lbs. Definitely a improvement. Cost me 3hrs shop time but it was worth it. As others have stated, most smiths don't like working on them. PM me if you want his contact info.
 
I have the service manual for the BLR that shows complete assembly and disassembly, if you wish PM me your email and I'll send it to you.
 
Not worth the cost (or the risk) to get it adjusted. Just need a bit of practice before I take it hunting. Creep is rather consistent actually, almost like a 2 stage pull. ;)

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Just an update, took on the project myself and after a few hours of work i was able to get my trigger from 8-10 lbs of pull to around 4-5, and cleaned up the some of the creep and no more grit on the trigger pull. thanks for all the help and advice. if anyone would like to know how to do it PM me and i will pass along what i learned so that another BLR owner can do the job themselves. thankfully there is a way to do it without touching the timing gears. all said and done I'm happy with the results.. thanks again
 
pescador said:
Just an update, took on the project myself and after a few hours of work i was able to get my trigger from 8-10 lbs of pull to around 4-5, and cleaned up the some of the creep and no more grit on the trigger pull. thanks for all the help and advice. if anyone would like to know how to do it PM me and i will pass along what i learned so that another BLR owner can do the job themselves. thankfully there is a way to do it without touching the timing gears. all said and done I'm happy with the results.. thanks again
Click to expand...

I think I speak for everyone when I say that that feat deserves a full write up for the sake of posterity!
 
pescador said:
do you own one of these swiss watch rifles? theres a lot of moving parts to them i was actually pretty surprised. one requires a ton of patience. ill give a write up if you need it
Click to expand...

I own three, and am considering 2 more. I too am mechanically inclined and would prefer to do it myself. So, yes please share your knowledge (any photos?). A Browning-BLR Lightweight technical manual would be nice, if one can be found.

Thanks.
 
You know what gets me? Old Winchester rifles (John Browning designs) could be given an beautiful, crisp, light trigger pull so their system wasn't that bad. Later, both Winchester and Browning (with no help from John M., of course) produced triggers which were and are absolute crap. One can only surmise, the designers are not shooters.
 
Just to clarify;

it is possible to remove the BLR trigger, sear and hammer while leaving the action intact.

1. Remove recoil pad (#6 Phillips)
2. Remove rear stock ( loooong flathead screwdriver - why not just use a bolt here Browning? This is the hardest part of the whole operation)
3. Drop the hammer, remove mainspring (vice, or vice grips - why no flat spots for a wrench?)
4. Drive out rearmost pin or Chicago Screw - fish the sear out, don't lose dear spring - you'll need it as a template for the replacement. (Tweezers are pretty handy for putting that sucker back in assembly)
5. Drive out the second to rearmost pin/Chicago screw. You can now remove the hammer.

As you can see it's simple to take apart, but not easy.

To do it right you will want to make a jig, so you can SEE the seat/hammer relationship. Otherwise you will need to polish/re-assemble a few times. I polish the sear and hammer, smear with layup die, re-assemble, and dry fire a bunch. Take note of the hammer as you pull the trigger, if it moves rearward at all you will want to modify the sear angle a hair. Now I disassemble and grind the hammer, pretty much leave the sear alone now because it functions as the safety.

Even though it's a fairly basic procedure I would not be surprised if a gun smith charged $250 for the job. I tackled it because I could not find someone local to do the work. It took me about 8hrs the first time. It's possible to get the pull weight to 5-6lbs without replacing the sear spring. Mine breaks very cleanly, and while there are a few things about the BLR I don't like, the trigger is no longer one of them
 
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