Nitride finish results - Wall of text and pics warning!

AWMozart

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Victoria BC
In a previous thread started by Spcammo there was a discussion regarding options for a durable corrosion resistant finish. CanAm joined in and suggested Melonite. I knew next to nothing about the process and speaking frankly; I thought it a was a baked on finish similar to Cerakote. I was of course quite wrong as it is a type of case hardening process that blackens the metal and leaves it corrosion resistant. When my brain comprehended a case hardening process that makes a gun rust resistant, gives it a nice black finish, and effectively doesn't affect the tolerances I decided I had to have me some of that. At the suggestion of CanAm I contacted Nitrera, and they agreed to do my rifles. I sent them 2 bolt action rifles, a CZ 455, a CZ 527, and a spare barrel for the 455. I had to completely disassemble both rifles and send them broken down, ready to be put through the process. The CZ 527 tested my poor vision and fumbling fingers, but I got it done. I did not send either of the trigger assemblies, the CZ 527 front sight blade due to the brass bead, or any springs. It should be noted that I sent all the small pins from both the rifles which are quite small interference fit components: the process did not have a negative effect on the pins. Out of curiosity I pounded a couple of the pins in and removed them again to see if the black finish would be marred, and it was not. The barrel of the CZ 455 I sent had some light rust pitting near the muzzle, which vanished without a trace when I got it back: I was very surprised by this.

Here's a few pics to get an idea of what it looks like. I'll try to also get a YouTube video of the rifles out in the next few weeks.

First the CZ 455 where it used to be rust pitted.
IMG_1168.jpg

The process did not affect proof marks or lettering.
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I'll need red nail polish to put the red dot back on.
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Random pics.
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Thank you very much Nitrera and Jonathan for your fine work, everything is gorgeous and I'm extremely pleased with the results!

A few thoughts:

I won't discuss my specific cost to having this done, as doing low volume private sales is new for Jonathan and Nitrera and I want to them to be free to adjust their pricing so it can be a profitable venture for them; I like their product and I want them to make decent money doing it so I can send them more stuff. I will however say it was cheaper than sending something out to be Cerakoted by a good margin.

Should this process replace Cerakote/Duracoat/etc? As primary corrosion resistance and base finish, yes, but if you want something other than matte black then do both.

Why don't more firearms come with this done to them?
 

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In a previous thread started by Spcammo there was a discussion regarding options for a durable corrosion resistant finish. CanAm joined in and suggested Melonite. I knew next to nothing about the process and speaking frankly; I thought it a was a baked on finish similar to Cerakote. I was of course quite wrong as it is a type of case hardening process that blackens the metal and leaves it corrosion resistant. When my brain comprehended a case hardening process that makes a gun rust resistant, gives it a nice black finish, and effectively doesn't affect the tolerances I decided I had to have me some of that. At the suggestion of CanAm I contacted Nitrera, and they agreed to do my rifles. I sent them 2 bolt action rifles, a CZ 455, a CZ 527, and a spare barrel for the 455. I had to completely disassemble both rifles and send them broken down, ready to be put through the process. The CZ 527 tested my poor vision and fumbling fingers, but I got it done. I did not send either of the trigger assemblies, the CZ 527 front sight blade due to the brass bead, or any springs. It should be noted that I sent all the small pins from both the rifles which are quite small interference fit components: the process did not have a negative effect on the pins. Out of curiosity I pounded a couple of the pins in and removed them again to see if the black finish would be marred, and it was not. The barrel of the CZ 455 I sent had some light rust pitting near the muzzle, which vanished without a trace when I got it back: I was very surprised by this.

Here's a few pics to get an idea of what it looks like. I'll try to also get a YouTube video of the rifles out in the next few weeks.

First the CZ 455 where it used to be rust pitted.
View attachment 93829

The process did not affect proof marks or lettering.
View attachment 93832
View attachment 93831

I'll need red nail polish to put the red dot back on.
View attachment 93830

Random pics.
View attachment 93833
View attachment 93834
View attachment 93835


Thank you very much Nitrera and Jonathan for your fine work, everything is gorgeous and I'm extremely pleased with the results!

A few thoughts:

I won't discuss my specific cost to having this done, as doing low volume private sales is new for Jonathan and Nitrera and I want to them to be free to adjust their pricing so it can be a profitable venture for them; I like their product and I want them to make decent money doing it so I can send them more stuff. I will however say it was cheaper than sending something out to be Cerakoted by a good margin.

Should this process replace Cerakote/Duracoat/etc? As primary corrosion resistance and base finish, yes, but if you want something other than matte black then do both.

Why don't more firearms come with this done to them?


Rifle looks awesome AWMozart!

Although I was the one who started all this but I was ashamed for being sluggish to get my rifle done and your rifle look gorgeous.

Any idea if they can apply this type of finish on SS firearms to reduce glare?

Thank you
 
It looks like that turned out absolutely perfectly. Having a place to nitride / melonite actions / barrels as an option would totally be worth it where needed. Hopefully they do make this a commercial option.
 
It looks like that turned out absolutely perfectly. Having a place to nitride / melonite actions / barrels as an option would totally be worth it where needed. Hopefully they do make this a commercial option.

Yes, I'm hoping they keep offering this service as I have all kinds of stuff I'd like done.
 
Anybody knows if nitriding can treat chromed surface or it has to be bare metal?

Got a 870 Wingmaster with chromed bolt and may be it's the perfect candidate for this type of treatment.
 
Thanks CanAm!

Anybody knows what is the safest way to strip the chrome?

I was hoping someone would have a reasonable response to chrome removal as everything I have to offer is unreasonable.

I think the safest solution would be taking it to a plating shop and have them do it. This would probably be expensive.

Unsafe do-it-yourself (A) Reverse electroplating. This is dangerous as one of the byproducts of running current though water is hydrogen. I've done this to a small white metal deck fitting that had been chrome plated, the receiver of a Savage model 24, and numerous small rusty deck fittings. It usually took me a day or so with the parts in a bucket of soapy water using a car battery and some big spikes as anodes for the crap to stick to. The longer you do it the smaller part will get so I always kept a close eye on the parts and pulled them out as soon as I has the surface cleaned up enough. I've also done the reverse to nickel plate various metal deck fittings; The finish was poor, but I was only concerned with corrosion resistance as these parts were isolated from the sacrificial zinc circuit and I wanted something cheap and reasonably effective against salt water.

Unsafe do-it-yourself (B) Hydrochloric/Muriatic acid. Never done this myself.
 
I'm not sure I would trust the process and you'll need ventilation for sure. On the hydrogen side you would need to be generating a lot of it, it dissipates fast.

I was hoping someone would have a reasonable response to chrome removal as everything I have to offer is unreasonable.

I think the safest solution would be taking it to a plating shop and have them do it. This would probably be expensive.

Unsafe do-it-yourself (A) Reverse electroplating. This is dangerous as one of the byproducts of running current though water is hydrogen. I've done this to a small white metal deck fitting that had been chrome plated, the receiver of a Savage model 24, and numerous small rusty deck fittings. It usually took me a day or so with the parts in a bucket of soapy water using a car battery and some big spikes as anodes for the crap to stick to. The longer you do it the smaller part will get so I always kept a close eye on the parts and pulled them out as soon as I has the surface cleaned up enough. I've also done the reverse to nickel plate various metal deck fittings; The finish was poor, but I was only concerned with corrosion resistance as these parts were isolated from the sacrificial zinc circuit and I wanted something cheap and reasonably effective against salt water.

Unsafe do-it-yourself (B) Hydrochloric/Muriatic acid. Never done this myself.
 
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