MG 34 ejecting problems

romar

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Hi looking for some advice,my MG34 is having problems ejecting about every 3-5 round it spins the empty 190 and the bolt closes on it,i have put a new ejector pin in and it still does it,i checked the plate that the ejector pin runs up against and it looks fine,so any ideas I would be all ears

thanks romar
 
Check your extractor . If it's worn it can lead to erratic extraction/ejection . Has it just started doing it recently , or has it always had ejection problems ?
 
Check the ejector again. In a TNW it will likely need to be custom fit. No crappy used ones. The ejector has to be fully extended before the bolt face teaches the ejection port. Also as mentioned check the extractor. Also check the screws for the ejection cam plate, make sure they are right and the cam plate can't move at all. I had to loctite mine in.
 
Check your extractor . If it's worn it can lead to erratic extraction/ejection . Has it just started doing it recently , or has it always had ejection problems ?

it had this problem when I first got it,(about four years ago)and found out the plate was loose,loc tightened it and the problem went away,now its back to doing the same thing
 
Check the ejector again. In a TNW it will likely need to be custom fit. No crappy used ones. The ejector has to be fully extended before the bolt face teaches the ejection port. Also as mentioned check the extractor. Also check the screws for the ejection cam plate, make sure they are right and the cam plate can't move at all. I had to loctite mine in.

Mine was doing the exact same thing and when I replaced the ejector I made sure the ejector was timed properly just like Can ar said above and it works good now. The old one was only just protruding from the bolt face when the bolt reached the back of the ejection port and wasn't ejecting properly. Also use a proper German ejector and not the replacements that tnw sells. I could never get the tnw ones to work properly as they are too short and the piece that strikes the casing is round and not angled and beveled.
 
Mine was doing the exact same thing and when I replaced the ejector I made sure the ejector was timed properly just like Can ar said above and it works good now. The old one was only just protruding from the bolt face when the bolt reached the back of the ejection port and wasn't ejecting properly. Also use a proper German ejector and not the replacements that tnw sells. I could never get the tnw ones to work properly as they are too short and the piece that strikes the casing is round and not angled and beveled.

Thanks Deathrawt,the ejector that I have sticks out quite a way when the bolt is all the way back and is angled and beveled,the top of it has very little wear where it hits the plate,what I'm interested in is the timing of it as you mentioned,how is that done?
 
The ejector has to start moving out at a certain time, and be fully out before a point. If you got an ejector and just put it I , it's probably wrong.
A proper ejector is too long to even install the bolt and you fit it until it just goes in.......its a complicated system. If you aren't mechanically inclined you might have issues
 
The ejector has to start moving out at a certain time, and be fully out before a point. If you got an ejector and just put it I , it's probably wrong.
A proper ejector is too long to even install the bolt and you fit it until it just goes in.......its a complicated system. If you aren't mechanically inclined you might have issues

I'm going to check the other 6 ejectors I have and see if there is some shorter or longer,the one that's installed right now with a round in the extractor the top of the ejector just clears the frame,so I don't think I could not have it any longer,and thanks for the advice,im all ears when it comes to working on these,(and by the way I'm a heavy duty mechanic)
thanks Romar
 
Another thing to check is the barrel return spring and plunger in the receiver. Sometimes there is some metal flashing in there that causes the rod and spring to bind up a bit and that can cause issues too. Lube it up good too. Are you using the firing pin spring that tnw uses or did you change it out to a normal German one? I find that the tnw spring is much too stiff and it's possible that the barrel is not moving the bolt back far enough during the cycle to properly eject the round. It takes a lot of force to overcome that flat coiled spring. Tnw uses it avoid having light primer strikes
 
I was thinking along those same lines.

"Guys, my minigun is acting up again... I can only get 1000 rounds a minute. Any advice?":nest:

just sayin'; this is a problem I'd like to have, my MG34 not working properly.



Doubt it. Try spending $5000 on one and then it's frigs off every couple shots......If it was FA I'd gladly put up with the hassle, but not for semi auto. I got mine working mint and sold it. Once running good they are good, but it was such a hassle to get it there.
 
Yup when I first bought mine it wouldn't feed, or eject. It jammed every single round and to say it was frustrating was a major understatement after spending over 5k on something that didn't even work with zero warranty. I spent months on the computer researching on how the 34 works and functions and got as much info from different forums as possible. I ended up changing quite a few parts before it started to actually work. They are really cool guns but very problematic in semi auto form. Tnw really should have test functioned them better before shipping them out. I don't regret buying it at all as it's one of my favorites now and everyone who has shot it thinks it's the coolest thing ever!
 
I agree with the last two posts,lots to learn with the old girl,i do love this gun even with it problems,and really love it when its sitting in its lafette mount (takes out gophers at 400m no problem)so back to my problem,,i think I fixed it,, I shaved the bolt spring abit and put a dab of jb weld under the ejector plate,,test fired 200 rnds and no jams :)
thanks again for your guys info
 
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