Tikka accuracy problem

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xingyc

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I decided to do a proper load development on my Tikka T3 270 win, all I had was IMR4350, so I loaded up some 130gr Sierra SBT and Barnes TSX with IMR4350.

The result from the first test are less than ideal. At 100m, Sierra SBT grouped around 1.25'' to 0.75'' with 4 shots, the Barnes grouped between 2'' to 1'', which is unacceptable for hand loads.

I remembered last summer, the rifle was grouping 4 TSXs around 0.75'' at 100 yards, and that was with 2 test loads (51 &55gr).
Here is what have changed since last summer:

1st, last month I took the stock off for the first time, discovered the recoil lug has an indent from the action's recoil, and the lug fit lose in the stock (recoil lug is 0.015'' smaller than the stock), so I epoxy the lug into the stock.

2nd, the IMR4350 is about 1 year old, it was stored in the basement.

3rd, after the first load test, I inspected the rifle, find the barrel is touching the stock 2.5'' from the tip of the stock. I shaved off some plastic with my pocket knife, now the barrel is free floating. ( I didn't shave off the two contact points, if the rifle still doesn't shoot well, I will shave them off )

Sooooo.. does epoxy the recoil lug messed up the accuracy or is it the old powder? Other reasons? Anyone had similar issue?
 
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xingyc said:
I decided to do a proper load development on my Tikka T3 270 win, all I had was IMR4350, so I loaded up some 130gr Sierra SBT and Barnes TSX with IMR4350.

The result from the first test are less than ideal. At 100m, Sierra SBT grouped around 1.25'' to 0.75'' with 4 shots, the Barnes grouped between 2'' to 1'', which is unacceptable for hand loads.

I remembered last summer, the rifle was grouping 4 shots around 0.75'' at 100 yards, and that was with 2 test loads (51 &55gr).
Here is what have changed since last summer:

1st, last month I took the stock off for the first time, discovered the recoil lug has an indent from the action's recoil, and the lug fit lose in the stock (recoil lug is 0.015'' smaller than the stock), so I epoxy the lug into the stock.

2nd, the IMR4350 is about 1 year old, it was stored in the basement.

3rd, after the first load test, I inspected the rifle, find the barrel is touching the stock 2.5'' from the tip of the stock. I shaved off some plastic with my pocket knife, now the barrel is free floating. ( I didn't shave off the two contact points, if the rifle still doesn't shoot well, I will shave them off )

Sooooo.. does epoxy the recoil lug messed up the accuracy or is it the old powder? Other reasons? Anyone had similar issue?
Click to expand...

There could be other reasons but I would start by free floating the entire barrel. The barrel should be floated enough so that the thickness of 3 sheets of bond paper can slide down the entire length without hanging up.
The epoxied lug is not the problem if done properly and the one year old powder is not likely an issue unless you basement is very damp.

Regards; Aubrey
 
Did you torque your action screws (ie. with a torque driver)?

How long since you cleaned the barrel (I'm sure you've done it, but it had to be mentioned).
 
Banished said:
There could be other reasons but I would start by free floating the entire barrel. The barrel should be floated enough so that the thickness of 3 sheets of bond paper can slide down the entire length without hanging up.
The epoxied lug is not the problem if done properly and the one year old powder is not likely an issue unless you basement is very damp.

Regards; Aubrey
Click to expand...


Thanks for your input.

From what I can see, the stock is designed to have the two contact points, so I'm a little hesitant to remove them. But I will experiment with them next time I go to the range. Worse case is to buy another factory stock.

I don't have a torque driver, so I just make the screws hand tight. Did the same to my 223 Tikka, it stacked 3 bullets in the same hole at 100m. But if the issue is not resolved after next range trip, I will invest in a torque driver.

I cleaned the barrel with Hopper 9 before I went to the range, used copper remover last winter, after hunting season.
 
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I'd use the copper remover now. The Hoppes (assuming it's the regular stuff and not the copper cleaner) won't really remove copper, and you could just have a fouled barrel.....
 
The recoil lugs on tikkas tend to bend sometimes after 400 rounds or so. If accuracy is going down hill you can pull it out of the stock and flip it over, this usually tightes things up and brings back your accuracy. When it happens again replace the lug.
 
I'd go with the epoxied lug. It might be off angle. Best thing is to now take it to a 'smith for a proper full bedding job IMO. I doubt you'll be able to pull the lug out and clean out the lug well properly without doing damage to the stock. But maybe clean the copper out thoroughly first to see what that does.
 
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I suspect it is the lug. Thaat lug has to be a perfect fit to the receiver and rock solid in the stock. IMR 4350 has given me as good of accuracy as any powder and I believe is ideal for the 270.
 
I would replace the recoil lug with a hardened stainless steel lug from Lumley Arms or Atlasworx, it is about $30 plus shipping and it is worth the price and the effort to install it. Next, free float the barrel, all the Tikkas I have owned over the years had no contact points on the barrel and they all shot very well. Finally, yes clean the barrel, use a good copper solvent and get it right down to the bare metal, I don't use any brushes, just patches-and it will take more patches when you don't use a brush-so you may have to let the copper solvent sit for a little while depending on the amount of build up in the barrel.

After that, I have always found the ladder method for load development to be very good. I find it takes an extra trip or two to the range to get the load locked down, but it takes less rounds fired too.

Good luck!
 
xingyc said:
Thanks for your input.

From what I can see, the stock is designed to have the two contact points, so I'm a little hesitant to remove them. But I will experiment with them next time I go to the range. Worse case is to buy another factory stock.

I don't have a torque driver, so I just make the screws hand tight. Did the same to my 223 Tikka, it stacked 3 bullets in the same hole at 100m. But if the issue is not resolved after next range trip, I will invest in a torque driver.

I cleaned the barrel with Hopper 9 before I went to the range, used copper remover last winter, after hunting season.
Click to expand...

Hi again. I have tested many T3's. All of them where very accurate with a free floated barrel. We have a local long-range 1000M competition shoot every year with many makes of rifles competing in our Hunter class. During the past six years a T3 Varmint in 7mm Rem Mag in different rifles and different owners have won this event. Out of 20 competitors there are 5 or 6 using a T3. If the shooter is reading the wind and mirage properly the T3's will shoot 3 shot groups of 1/2 MOA or better if using good targets bullets like the 175gr Sierra Matchking or Berger 180's

Float and clean the barrel and tighten all screws as suggested - it will probably solve the problem. If that doesn't work then a trip to the gunsmith is next.

When you clean your barrel be sure to use a good copper solvent and clean with patches until the blue or green stain on the patch disappears.

Regards; Aubrey
 
Indentation of the aluminum recoil lug is a known issue with the tikka t3, usually you'll see it more on the heavier recoiling calibers and more likely to happen if the action screws aren't torqued down toght enough or if the action was removed from the stock and not reinstalled properly.

For example removing the action to adjust the trigger pull weight, when you reinstall the action into the stock you have to ensure that not only is the recoil lug sitting in the corespondent groove in the action but that the lug is tight against the forward edge of that groove before tightening everything down.

One of the upgrades for the t3x is a steel recoil lug, which can be ordered and will fit the t3, as others have mentioned there are aftermarket steel and titanium options already out there.

Now, if you've epoxied the lug into the stock you must ensure that there was no epoxy interfering with the correct fitment of the lug in the stock groove, i.e. No epoxy between the lower edge of the lug and the stock affecting the depth in that groove and none on the rear edge of the lug preventing it from sitting flush against that edge of the groove. Obviously, also no epoxy interfering between the fit of the lug into the actions groove.
 
elker said:
Tikka is added to the Do-Not-buy list
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I hope this thread doesn't demote Tikka for others. I believe Tikka has good values and availability in Canada. Although the recent price bump is quite significant... I might consider Howa.

There isn't much upgrade required for a new Tikka, it comes with a adjustable trigger, a very stiff stock, it's also available in stainless steel; which helps in the late season hunts, when you bring your rifle into the house, condensation is all over the metal; I would be very concerned if it is a blued gun.
Tikka has 1moa (3 shots) guarantee. like many people suggested my issue might be a copper fouled barrel, or my stupidity for epoxy the recoil lug in an angle.

From what I read, the only practical upgrade needed is the recoil lug, which is well under $100.

I'm not a big fan of American rifles, so the only comparable rifle is the Howa 1500, which is very hard to find in Canada, cost around the same as Tikka T3. most models doesn't come with a magazine, I don't think the trigger is adjustable, not sure about the stock... My point being: Tikka T3s are great guns for their value.




I shaved off the stock a bit more, now I can fit 3 pieces of letter paper between the barrel and stock. cleaned the stock and reassemble the rifle, dropped rifle 1 foot off ground (on the butt pad of course) 2 times to ensure the actions is sitting tight against the recoil lug, and tighten up the screws.
I will do an update after the next range trip, probably at the end of April.
 
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Prophet River has like 50 Howa's... http://store.prophetriver.com/categories/Rifles/Howa/

While I love my Howa 1500 in 6.5x55, I also love my T3's. Your problem is VERY likely due to the epoxy job. The original T3 aluminum lugs are fine if the stock is properly installed. I did upgrade my T3 (30-06) to a Lumley Arms titanium unit for peace of mind, but there were no issues with my factory aluminum lug.
 
So this problem is discovered in load development.
Where are you at in the scheme of your load development, where do you want to go and what is your load at now?
The 130 grain Barnes is a little longer than the lead core bullets. A previous accuracy load with 150 grain bullets in the 270 is 52 grains of H4350.
This is only referenced since the 130 grain Barnes will be almost the same length as a 150.
 
horseman2 said:
So this problem is discovered in load development.
Where are you at in the scheme of your load development, where do you want to go and what is your load at now?
The 130 grain Barnes is a little longer than the lead core bullets. A previous accuracy load with 150 grain bullets in the 270 is 52 grains of H4350.
This is only referenced since the 130 grain Barnes will be almost the same length as a 150.
Click to expand...

Thank you for sharing. For hunting I only use copper bullet. Next test loads are going to be with Barnes 130 TSX , and H4831sc. Hopefully it'll shoot consistent before spring bear season. Otherwise I will have to use 223.
 
Did you torque your action screws (ie. with a torque driver)?

How long since you cleaned the barrel (I'm sure you've done it, but it had to be mentioned).

YEP copper fowled and action screw torque.
 
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