Need help with 338 Lapua zeroing at 100

You have to set your zero... take the screw cap off the top, use the plastic screwdriver, unscrew the 'grub screws so the middle brass screw can turn. When you adjust the middle screw, there will be no clicks. Then once you have zero, you tighten the Grubb screws, do them whole same process for windage and you are good to go. The 30 moa rail might make things tough, keep us posted.

If you've done all that, you might have to do a 200 yard zero. The good news is though that a 50 yard zero with other cartridges, is close to the same as a 250 to 300 yard zero
 
I have 30MOA inserts in my rings on my 338 and 10MOA on the rail . I needed to zero at 300M to get on paper and even then the turrets were dialed in just a few clicks from the bottom.
This is what I was hoping would happen as I want this setup for shooting past 1000M .
If I still want to shoot close range I will just hold under .
 
The Zero on the turrets mean anything until you set them up yourself. So if you shoot too high, dial down (at least 30MOA, as you have a 30MOA base!) until you see the hole in the paper. Then you'll fine tune until you have your impact where you want it (I suggest you to have the impact at a strategical height at 100Y, like 2.5 inches higher than the crosshair, so you'll be dead on at 200Y or 300Y, you will have to test it out and find YOUR impact height at 100Y). Then you will be able to reset the turret caps to zero. This will be your zero for this bullet/cartridge, as any change on the load will change your zero.

Dark
 
Hey Horse96,

Thanks for the reply. I understand how to set my zero on the vortex turrets. However I believe your right on the 30MOA Top rail. But I've read on other forums of guys zeroing their 338s (some with a 30 moa cant). Like I have my elevation dial all the way down and my bullets are still flying past my target.


Yeah, that sucks. Go for a 200 yard or 300 yard zero and use your reticle for 100. You should have 5 moa of travel though, to get to 100 yards. 71 moa of travel in the gen 2, divided by 2 is 35.5. Minus the 30 moa of the rail And you get 5.5 moa on the bottom end.
 
Hey guys, hoping their are some experienced shooter's out there who may be able to help me out.

I've got a 338 Lapua, shooting 250g bullets, 30 MOA top rail built in. Razor hd gen2 4.5x 27x(mil)

So a buddy and I are at the range, and I've got my elevation set to zero and I'm trying to zero at 100m, how ever, the bullets are splashing.... Probably close to 20 meters past the target. I've heard of others zeroing their 338 Lapuas at 100, I just don't see this being possible if I have my elevation set to zero and I'm hitting past my target at 100.
Just want to get on target and move up from there.



Any feedback is truely appreciated, thank you.


Something is SERIOUSLY wrong here. That scope has over 110 MOA of internal adjustment so if you turn your elevation turret all the way up or down to the maximum then reset to 50% of the elevation travel and then dial the turret DOWN 30 MOA you should be very close to being on target at 100 yards. You will still have over 20 MOA to go down further still.

I have mounted that scope on a plus 50 MOA rail for a client on a 338 Lapua, he is able to still zero at 100 yards.
 
The gen 2 has 113 MOA of adjustment.
Center it at 0 you now have 56.5 moa to work with.
Add a 30 MOA rail and you now have 26.5 MOA left to play with.
Factor in some error up or down due to variations in the receiver, base, rings, scope and ammo and I would assume there ahould be room to zero at 100.
My buddy has a Barret MRAD in 338 zeroed at 100 but the MRAD has a 20 moa rail not 30.
When you say splashing behind the target are you hitting high or low?
And when you say your scope is at zero are you implying the turret says zero or you are at the very botrom of the adjustment range?
What rifle is this on? What base are you using? What rings?
Maybe a picture of the set up would help?
 
Yeah, that sucks. Go for a 200 yard or 300 yard zero and use your reticle for 100. You should have 5 moa of travel though, to get to 100 yards. 71 moa of travel in the gen 2, divided by 2 is 35.5. Minus the 30 moa of the rail And you get 5.5 moa on the bottom end.

There are a few #'s for adjustment range in their site but I believe total is 33 MRAD or 113 MOA
 
Just to clarify - have you adjusted the zero stop at all? I would move closer to the target to get the rifle on paper and estimate the amount I need to adjust, then reset the zero stop to allow me to adjust down as required. I'm assuming that scope has a zero stop.

Ben
 
No way in hell you should be far off.... You should be able to zero at 100 yards NP. are you using rings? is there a chance you have mount with a cant on it?

How high are you hitting at 100 yards? if you pick a spot, on a berm at 100 yards, are you 6 inches high? a foot high? 2 feet high?
 
I'm not familiar with your scope, but can the zero stop be adjusted so that you get more "down"? Once you are zeroed, reset the stop, so that you can quickly return to your base zero.
 
Your having zero stop issues. Reset your zero stop to plus 3mil then dial down to zero​ you should get on paper at 100m.

Nothing​is wrong with scope or gun, it's 100% user error.
 
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