No, because you have to reset it to you gun. Factory doesn't care where they set the zero stop. Your gun and rail is what affects your zero. Since you hac a 10mil rail you need to remove 10 mil of elevation from the dial to be zerod at 100m. Ontop of whatever adjustments are required to hit dead center.
Need help with 338 Lapua zeroing at 100
- Thread starter CanadianRouge
- Start date
No, because you have to reset it to you gun. Factory doesn't care where they set the zero stop. Your gun and rail is what affects your zero. Since you hac a 10mil rail you need to remove 10 mil of elevation from the dial to be zerod at 100m. Ontop of whatever adjustments are required to hit dead center.
We think that your zero stop is limiting your down adjustment. Adjust the zero stop so that you can get more adjustment. After you have your base zero, reset the zero stop.
It would help if you had a large enough target that you could tell exactly how much you need to come down. Shooting over the target doesn't mean much without knowing how big the target is.
It would help if you had a large enough target that you could tell exactly how much you need to come down. Shooting over the target doesn't mean much without knowing how big the target is.
Loosen your zero stop, reset so there is a 7 instead of zero. Tighten zero stop, dial down 2 mils and try zeroing again at the range. You should have 5 mils that you can use to 'zero' you scope and gun at 100m. Once you are happy with your zero, loosen the zero stop turn turret to zero and tighten your zero stop.
Your scope will only be zerod after you do this above.
Lol, this.
You can also dial up amd make sure you have 33 mils total between the top and bottom adjustment range.
There is no zero stop adjustment on the razor gen ii. You zero the rifle by the brass screw, then once you are zeroed, you tighten the grub screws and you are at zero on the turret. You get 1 moa (or whatever the equivalent is in mils) below zero.
Vortex's website is screwy. For the 4.5-27 it lists 71 moa of adjustment on the specs sheet, then when you go to the features page, it lists 113 moa of adjustment. I don't know mils, but the amount of travel will be the same.
At any rate, I cracked the safe open, and with my rifle zeroed for 100 yards for a .308 and a 20 moa rail, I get three complete revolutions of the turret, for 75 moa of adjustment. Yeah, something is screwy with your setup. You should recheck your setup.
I think the way the scope works is that you get over 120 moa of initial adjustment, then once your zero is set, you get 75 moa of adjustment. So, you should be able to get your rifle zero'ed at 100 no problem.
Are you sure that you are using the brass screw to set your zero? Ignore the zero on the indexing marks when the cap is off. Just shoot, watch for your impact, adjust the elevation to get to the splash, verify that is correct at 100, readjust if necessary, and once zeroed, screw the grub screws in, replace the cap and you should be good to go.
If in doubt, ask Shawn-338 to go to the range with you.
http://www.vortexoptics.com/product...56-riflescope-with-ebr-2c-moa-reticle/reticle
Vortex's website is screwy. For the 4.5-27 it lists 71 moa of adjustment on the specs sheet, then when you go to the features page, it lists 113 moa of adjustment. I don't know mils, but the amount of travel will be the same.
At any rate, I cracked the safe open, and with my rifle zeroed for 100 yards for a .308 and a 20 moa rail, I get three complete revolutions of the turret, for 75 moa of adjustment. Yeah, something is screwy with your setup. You should recheck your setup.
I think the way the scope works is that you get over 120 moa of initial adjustment, then once your zero is set, you get 75 moa of adjustment. So, you should be able to get your rifle zero'ed at 100 no problem.
Are you sure that you are using the brass screw to set your zero? Ignore the zero on the indexing marks when the cap is off. Just shoot, watch for your impact, adjust the elevation to get to the splash, verify that is correct at 100, readjust if necessary, and once zeroed, screw the grub screws in, replace the cap and you should be good to go.
If in doubt, ask Shawn-338 to go to the range with you.
http://www.vortexoptics.com/product...56-riflescope-with-ebr-2c-moa-reticle/reticle
Just bore sight the scope. So, take your bolt out, look down the barrel and point it at at an object, make sure it stays on that object, then dial the brass screw until your scope points at the same object. That will get you on paper.
Do the same for windage. Read the instructions on how to zero the razor.
I have an idea.......
READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL. If you don't have one go on Vortex website and download a copy.
Also, once you have the rifle sighted in and on paper at 100yds immediately move to 200 yards and re-zero your scope. There is absolutely no point at all in shooting a 338 Lapua at 100 yards.
READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL. If you don't have one go on Vortex website and download a copy.
Also, once you have the rifle sighted in and on paper at 100yds immediately move to 200 yards and re-zero your scope. There is absolutely no point at all in shooting a 338 Lapua at 100 yards.
