XCR-l Maintenance Questions

kykamo

kykamo

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Well i finally have a XCR-l in x39 coming my way! Now, i have some questions on how to clean it and lube it so that im ready to go the day it gets here.

I do plan on running corrosive ammo thought it. An sks is what i shoot most, so i know HOW to clean it. What i want to know is WHAT to clean on the XCR. Ive read that people usually just open it up a dunk the bolt and carrier and rod (whatever the parts are that would fall out) in the tube and that's it. But what about the barrel, gas tube and block? Shouldnt i need to clean those too? if so, do i need to uninstall them too and dump them in the water, or just dunk the whole receiver or will just pouring some water down the gas tube and barrel suffice?

My second question is about lubing the XCR. I keep reading i should run it wet. Sounds annoying (as i dont with any of my guns and dont need too), but since i have to clean it after every use with corrosive anyway, it shouldnt be hard to lube it (if i have to) after drying it and putting it together. SO what parts and where do i need to "keep it wet."

Thanks guys
 
I do a light coat of clp or g96 on the bolt and a lil skim coat on the entire piston. Thats it. Takes 20 seconds.

Btw, I only run non corrosive and handloads through mine. So no need for the hot water or windex bath.

A wise old sage of a gumsmith told me once to shoot some non-corrosive rounds through after the corrosive. The idea being the n/c rounds blow the corrosive salts out and cleaning isn't such a pain... I've done it more than a few times in my cz527 bolt gun and the barrel has never looked like a sewer pipe.
 
Q2.
Lube- read the manual. Read it. They (RA) are specific about what to use and where to use it. That said, I use g96 for all. I spray the bolt and carrier then wipe off. The end.
Read the manual.

Q1
Mine is also x39, gen 2 w/rails. Except for approx 300 rounds, all have been corrosive. Round count just over 20,000.
Get home, field strip. The gun not me. Lower stays on the counter, no concern there.
Gas plug, bolt carrier, piston, in the sink. I clean the bolt by hand.
Muzzle in the sink, spray from chamber south, barrel, gas tube, and gas block.

Me, I just hang to dry, wipe & lube, re-wipe. Run some patches then put'er back together.
I strip the rifle every 2,000 ish rounds and giver a gooder.

The hotter the water the faster it drys.
Make sure the water is out between the muzzle and brake. There's a little gap there. You can chase it with wd40, then go about your cleaning routine. I don't use a brake anymore, but it was a tough spot to clean.

Fwiw, my gun is more reliable dry(ish) and mildly dirty.
Thread lock or loctite jokes were from years back. It's not a concern anymore.

Happy shooting.

Oh, lastly;
If you're buying new, ask if it has the "H" hammer spring. Heavy. Surplus primers are harder. My original hammer spring was standard.
The trade off with the H spring is trigger slap, though barely noticeable.

Wolverine Supplies is your parts source, if ever needed.
 
I use fluid film whipped off, leaving a very thin layer. Lube points on the carrier and op rod lugs get a bit of synthetic grease. Wolverine has said run them wet, this isn't my experience. Don't scrape off the the piston or gas block components with steel, use a carbon buster and bronze brush or something if needed and don't lube the piston.

Keep harsh solvents away from the extractor spring and and bolt buffer.

Key maintenance parts to have on hand = firing pin retaining pin / oring , bolt buffer, spare firing pin assembly, extractor spring, maybe barrel retention bolt. Other issues would be more major like broken op rod (super rare now), or bolt = never heard of.
 
I too run them mostly dry. I use Eezox which is more like a preservative / metal treatment than a lube.

Strip and wash in the sink post corrosive with hot hot hot soapy water. rinse.

I use joy which cuts any old lube then i reapply the Eezox everywhere, let sit for an hour then wipe off excess and reassemble.

It's crazy how well soapy water takes off crud, much better than a lot of clp.
 
Here's a link you may find useful.
http://http://emptormaven.com/img/XCR-Armorer-Course.pdf

I have one in 7.62x39. My only advice for you is LOCTITE EVERYTHING!!!!!
Straight out of the box my sights were only hand tight. I tightened everything and ran sixty rounds through it. Went home to clean it the barrel and gas block had come loose. Next time out the stock, butt pad and the screw on the safety all had come loose. This Friday I went out and the gas block had come loose and moved forward enough to block the port rendering the gun a single shot and damaging the lug on the bottom of the barrel that holds the gas block in place.
LOCTITE EVERYTHING!!!!!!!
Btw, I find cleaning the XCR a pain to clean compared to an SKS or 858.
Hope you have better luck.
 
grumpyguy said:
Here's a link you may find useful.
http://http://emptormaven.com/img/XCR-Armorer-Course.pdf

I have one in 7.62x39. My only advice for you is LOCTITE EVERYTHING!!!!!
Straight out of the box my sights were only hand tight. I tightened everything and ran sixty rounds through it. Went home to clean it the barrel and gas block had come loose. Next time out the stock, butt pad and the screw on the safety all had come loose. This Friday I went out and the gas block had come loose and moved forward enough to block the port rendering the gun a single shot and damaging the lug on the bottom of the barrel that holds the gas block in place.
LOCTITE EVERYTHING!!!!!!!
Btw, I find cleaning the XCR a pain to clean compared to an SKS or 858.
Hope you have better luck.
Click to expand...

Thats strange. When I got my xcr all the major components came with red loctite installed, most notably the screws that hold the ejector in place.
 
xdmer said:
I use fluid film whipped off, leaving a very thin layer. Lube points on the carrier and op rod lugs get a bit of synthetic grease. Wolverine has said run them wet, this isn't my experience. Don't scrape off the the piston or gas block components with steel, use a carbon buster and bronze brush or something if needed and don't lube the piston.

Keep harsh solvents away from the extractor spring and and bolt buffer.

Key maintenance parts to have on hand = firing pin retaining pin / oring , bolt buffer, spare firing pin assembly, extractor spring, maybe barrel retention bolt. Other issues would be more major like broken op rod (super rare now), or bolt = never heard of.
Click to expand...

I too use fluid film! I love the stuff
 
blaxsun said:
Loctite is a good start. I personally like FrogLube (gives you "wet" performance while not appearing wet), but you're also running corrosive ammo, so...
Click to expand...

I used froglube on an XCR-M. It works for a while, but if you let your rifle sit over time (e.g. no shooting for six months during the winter) it turns into a gooey, gummy jelly. Doesn't work well in the cold either, it makes the action sluggish, it's too viscous. Once the rifle heats up it's fine, but it's like putting lard in your action - it has to melt before it works.

And yes, I heated it up and wiped it off as directed. Still got all gummy on me.
 
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