Need help with ar15 bcg problem
- Thread starter Davis1891
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I just watch the election port while racking the bolt, I physically see the round chamber.
Take it easy guys. Its a Norinco and under some kind of torture test. I want to see its reliability without any lube and cleaning.Fair enough, it's your rifle so just like I said to the guy who uses wheel bearing grease, lube or don't lube it however you like but please don't be that guy that sells his worn out crap on the EE without telling the new owner that you've abused your stuff it's entire lifetime and that it's pretty much now a parts gun.
I really don't understand people like you who will ruin a perfectly good firearm for no other reason but to save $10 a year on a bottle of oil. Do you also throw your gun in the dirt and get it all scratched up then take pics of it like that to make it look like you're a real operator?
I'll skip the dad rant on having respect for your things even though it's apparent your dad skipped that lesson during your upbringing.
Do what you want with your stuff, I hope it fails you when you actually need it during a match or while showing off to your friends at the range.
Now, back to our regularly scheduled program.
Looking forward to the range report with different ammo
Will let you know when it will break for sure.
Phat Eagle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Fraser Valley, BC
There are times where you MUST be sure, and I play the way I work (before I started pushing paper)!! They don't call it the "Deadman's Click" for nothing...
Obviously you don't play at night.
Point is, The forward assist is not useless. It is a control surface that has a purpose, and was designed to solve a problem.
Many firearms (non-AR) have a forward assist functionality built into the charging handle.
Some of its uses include:
To ensure the bolt has fully gone into battery on the ready.
To provide 100% lock-up after a press check. (especially at Night - when a tactile check is necessary)
To Aid in chambering when the weapon is excessively dirty, such as when shooting suppressed.
So while it may not be necessary on a range toy, it is very important control.
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Phat Eagle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Fraser Valley, BC
I wasn't even going to bring that up, because most don't!! Nothing like a tactile press-check in the pitch black!!
Well considering we can only shoot from 9 am to 9pm or dusk at approved ranges we should never be in the dark with an ar-15.
There are those people who do more than just punch paper.
On another note, you guys do know you can use the actually indent on the bolt carrier as a forward assist.
Still alive
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rainy mosquito infested part of BC
Haven't you shot a TAC rifle night match yet? 7pm start in October is pretty well pitch black. Shoot one when you return from Bantario. A lot of fun!
Well, nice to see how derailed my original topic has gotten lol.
I bought 100 rounds of american eagle.
The BCG didn't jam up once. So for future reference for anyone else that has had this problem...
Consider it solved.
Thanks gents.
I bought 100 rounds of american eagle.
The BCG didn't jam up once. So for future reference for anyone else that has had this problem...
Consider it solved.
Thanks gents.
Still alive
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rainy mosquito infested part of BC
Welcome to CGN where we derail everything!
Glad it was only an ammo issue for you! I basically shoot AE through mine 80% of the time also and never had a problem!
When consulting friends and family why our community never seems to accomplish anything, reference this thread.
Glad it was just a crap ammo issue OP. No more wartak.
If you want cheap ammo, I run MFS or Barnaul steel case. The steel casing won't hurt anything, and although the barrel will wear slightly faster with the bi-metal jacket, the savings will pay for a new barrel and still save you money.
Now let's watch how further off the rails this thread will go *rolls eyes*
Glad it was just a crap ammo issue OP. No more wartak.
If you want cheap ammo, I run MFS or Barnaul steel case. The steel casing won't hurt anything, and although the barrel will wear slightly faster with the bi-metal jacket, the savings will pay for a new barrel and still save you money.
Now let's watch how further off the rails this thread will go *rolls eyes*
That sounds like a challenge, ok, I'll play
In my opinion you are correct about bi-metal jacketed bullets saving enough to buy a new barrel every couple years, BUT that only applies if you are running a cheap $200 barrel, the majority of the barrels I've installed in my rifles over the last few years have been stainless match grade barrels that cost around $500 to have made and then what's the point of spending all that money on a precision barrel just to run garbage ammo through it. I've sold off all of those now though and built a budget minded AR with a cheaper barrel hoping to find time to get into 3-gun rather than shoot small groups so now if I'm not running handloads it's whatever I can find for a good price (I still won't shoot Norinco though).
That sounds like a challenge, ok, I'll play
In my opinion you are correct about bi-metal jacketed bullets saving enough to buy a new barrel every couple years, BUT that only applies if you are running a cheap $200 barrel, the majority of the barrels I've installed in my rifles over the last few years have been stainless match grade barrels that cost around $500 to have made and then what's the point of spending all that money on a precision barrel just to run garbage ammo through it. I've sold off all of those now though and built a budget minded AR with a cheaper barrel hoping to find time to get into 3-gun rather than shoot small groups so now if I'm not running handloads it's whatever I can find for a good price (I still won't shoot Norinco though).
And I'm a degenerate gun enthusiast drinking ice cold coronas in my back yard so I'll bite.
I'll give you that, my one rifle that I run a match grade barrel on only ever sees match grade ammo because it's intended purpose is to shoot tight groups at a distance.
I'm more or less referring to my other 3 rifles that run Daniel Defense, BCM & Faxon barrels where all I really expect them to do is hit minute-of-badguy @ 300 meters or CQB work inside 100 meters.
Glad to see someone on this site can understand my point, using the right tool for the task at hand
No point accelerating the wear rate on an expensive barrel just to make noise at the range, That's why only having one rifle is so silly, there really is no one gun for all purposes. Everyone should own at least 2 AR's and a couple non restricted semi's as well as a couple long range bolt rigs plus some bashers like an SKS or something for shooting cheap ammo.
If I was shooting a $500 Norinco I couldn't care less what ammo I was feeding it but when I had my $2000+ PWS piston driven 223 there was no way it would see anything other than copper jacketed projectiles from a reputable manufacturer.
Lol, with that combination of parts, ammo, and lube you must be able to shoot into space
There actually is quite a science to proper lubrication, in our rifles it's a little less critical but try to run Caterpiller diesel engine oil in a race car on a track and see how long the engine lasts. We get away with a lot because we don't push our guns, we clean them more often than they really need and running semi auto only takes a lot of the heat and stress out of the equation.
I've never tried grease in an AR but when I ran a synthetic (gun store purchased) grease in my first Kriss Vector it would jam up in the winter but if I ran oil it was 100% reliable.
I do run grease in my M-305's in certain areas but only because it's what is supposed to be there.
I'm not saying it won't work, what I'm saying is that for the amount you need and the price of it a person should use what is recommended by the manufacturer instead of trying to save $3.
So your experience with one sh*tty gun that failed to operate while using grease is somehow empirical evidence??
Your comparison of engine oils to firearm lubricants is not a fair one. The role(s) of engine lube is far more scientific than lubricating metal on metal surfaces to reduce friction like that of a firearm. Have a look around the internet, plenty of people using plenty of different lubes including vagisil(Pat Rogers) and all worked for a time without damaging the firearm. I agree the wrong lube in an engine can lead to damage but not so in a firearm.
This is the answer the less informed need to remember..
Press checks are a dumb idea and can be done without touching the charge handle or risking an out of battery bolt. And as mentioned press checks only work in appropriate levels of ambient light.
Again, press checks are dumb. Tactile checking the top round of a magazine works without disturbing the bolt and works with or without ambient light. If you seat your magazine properly and tug on it to ensure it is in fact locked in place then there is zero chance of an unseated magazine. TAP TUG RACK.
Uh nope nope and nope.
If you work the charge handle as intended the bolt will in fact go into battery. When you do a reload(while shooting) do you also do a press check before continuing to fire? I highly doubt that. You reload and return fire, no one press checks in the middle of an event. So why the belief that it is needed before the event, or ever? Do you not trust the design of the rifle or your ability to operate it?
Again, press checks are dumb and can be done without f**king with the bolt if you feel you must do one.
If a round won't chamber on it's own then forcing it is the last thing you want to be doing. Without a proper diagnosis as to why the rifle won't feed you are simply ignoring the symptoms and forcing a "solution".
The so called "forward assist function" you say is built into fixed charge handle(reciprocating charge handle) rifles is not for forcing the bolt into battery, it's a charge handle and nothing more. Using the FA on an AR style of rifle is nothing more than institutional imbreeding that has been passed on from one generation of ill informed idiot to the next.
I'm not sure I would call the Vector a sh!tty design, kinda revolutionary and both of the ones I owned were 100% reliable (when lubricated correctly) and quite accurate. They're both sold now so I obviously realize they're also pretty useless.
I compare automotive lubricants and firearms lubricants because there are a lot of people who use them and I know of a couple firearms that have been ruined by them. Certain oils and greases won't hurt anything but some additives used in some oils are not so compatible and can do damage to polymers or to the guns finish. I just don't understand why people look for alternatives when a $10 bottle of gun oil will last over a year. A couple drops here and there and your done, it's not like you need a liter a month, even running an AR wet only takes a few drops before a range session.
My point is that not all oils are created equally, viscosity, film strength, how they handle heat, how they continue to lubricate when fouled are all factors a person should be aware of and just because it's good in your truck doesn't mean it will do what you need it to do in your rifle.
In the end people are free to do what they want but the problem is that the people who ruin a firearm with improper lubricant selection probably won't mention that they were using Walmart brand oil when they post pics and trash talk the firearm they own that failed them after a couple thousand rounds. Instead it will be ranting about what a POS this firearm is which will influence the opinions of others.
And I don't use the FA either, I only use my AR's at the range so if it doesn't chamber correctly I find out why rather than forcing it in and I don't do press checks because I typically load on an open bolt letting the bolt slam home. If it goes click so what, no one is shooting at me and in the thousands of rounds I've put through my rifles I can only remember a couple times it went click instead of boom.
