SKS Trigger Group Reinstall
- Thread starter gunnarheim
- Start date
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
The claws that the front of the trigger group engages into may need to be trimmed slightly with a rat tail file.
Take just the slightest bit off at a time and try it until a firm palm smack is all it takes.
Take just the slightest bit off at a time and try it until a firm palm smack is all it takes.
- Location
- Lost Somewhere in Time
I thought of that but wouldn't that move the trigger group forward a bit and make it even harder to snap down.
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
I don't have anything with me (people in the office get a little snaky with an SKS leaning against the water cooler) to check, but I don't think the trigger housing hangs solely on the hook.
If it jams itself between the fore and aft pillars, then it may make it hard to get down to the spring hook.
Try reassembly without the stock, so you can see the relationship.
If it jams itself between the fore and aft pillars, then it may make it hard to get down to the spring hook.
Try reassembly without the stock, so you can see the relationship.
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- Location
- Lost Somewhere in Time
This is getting confusing. The hole for the button is on the trigger group So moving it back would make it tighter on the spring button which is on the receiver.. Does this make sense?
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The way I do it:
- Take out the bolt/bolt carrier/dust cover so you have a flat surface on the top side of the receiver.
- Flip the rifle and rest the top side of the receiver on a solid piece of 2x4.
- Install magazine and line up trigger group (make sure hammer back and safety on).
- Get a mallet, give the trigger guard a good wack. If it doesn't go in you are not wacking it hard enough.
It's important you have that solid rest, else receiver is just going to slip away from the stock. I've also tried c-clamping the trigger guard into receiver, but I found that more messy and have a good chance of marring the rifle.
On some rifle it can be very stiff. 2 of my SKSs are stiff (requires hammer wack), and the other 3 are very easy (can use palm to push it in). It sucks to have the first rifle to be a stiff one, but once you figured it out you can do it every time. If you are worried about things not lining up, leave the magazine out in first few tries. There'll be less things to worry about. Eventually when you have it figured out you can take it apart again and put the mag back in.
- Take out the bolt/bolt carrier/dust cover so you have a flat surface on the top side of the receiver.
- Flip the rifle and rest the top side of the receiver on a solid piece of 2x4.
- Install magazine and line up trigger group (make sure hammer back and safety on).
- Get a mallet, give the trigger guard a good wack. If it doesn't go in you are not wacking it hard enough.
It's important you have that solid rest, else receiver is just going to slip away from the stock. I've also tried c-clamping the trigger guard into receiver, but I found that more messy and have a good chance of marring the rifle.
On some rifle it can be very stiff. 2 of my SKSs are stiff (requires hammer wack), and the other 3 are very easy (can use palm to push it in). It sucks to have the first rifle to be a stiff one, but once you figured it out you can do it every time. If you are worried about things not lining up, leave the magazine out in first few tries. There'll be less things to worry about. Eventually when you have it figured out you can take it apart again and put the mag back in.
Had to do this in the field once, used the butt plate of another SKS to wack it in place. I imaging under emergency you can also use a rock.
Also the bayonet on the SKS is great for opening the wooden crate of surplus ammo.
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
Guys! Easy on the brute force crap!
I finally had a chance to have a look. There is a step in the back of the trigger housing which falls in forward of the rear pillar on the receiver.
It should clear without binding.
Ideally, the spring hook holds the step against the pillar, with no preload on the front pins.
Then, everything pops in and out without any grief.
I finally had a chance to have a look. There is a step in the back of the trigger housing which falls in forward of the rear pillar on the receiver.
It should clear without binding.
Ideally, the spring hook holds the step against the pillar, with no preload on the front pins.
Then, everything pops in and out without any grief.
- Location
- Lost Somewhere in Time
That is were it binds. It does not clear the button. Only 1/2 of the button is showing in the hole when the trigger group is first installed, before any wacking.
Yup, I've had to do this with stiff / stubborn ones.
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
As I mentioned in post 24, the front pins should not be preloaded heavily in the slots of the forward pillar.
Use a tiny rat tail file to deepen the slots so the step in the back of the trigger housing doesn't bind hard against the forward face of the aft pillar.
It's good that only half of the button, or top of the spring hook, is showing in the hole. It means that the spring action will work to engage it upon whacking.
- Location
- Lost Somewhere in Time
Bfh
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Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
Inflatable version. You need a Boston valve.
- Location
- Lost Somewhere in Time
Finally got around to putting the rifle back together. I was waiting for a new buttplate trap door and spring. The tolerences for the mag and trigger group were so tight that the trigger group would not snap in. Tried the hammer method with a block of wood on the trigger group using a dead blow hammer. No success Repositioned the trigger group and mag. One sharp blow with the palm of my hand snapped it in place. Now I just have to hammer out the firing pin retaining pin to clean the bolt. Thanks to all the gun nutters for your valuable advice.
Right on, the retaining pin should only need a few taps with a drift pin/ dowel etc.
