C no 7 enfield

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MarkdevCanada

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Hello all:

I have a couple (~9) x C No 7 Enfield receivers and most of the parts (not all are long branch) to build up the rifles. That's the good news, The bad news is the missing parts (I.e. barrels, rear site windage screws, windage springs and windage spring screw) seem to be unobtainable.

While I’d rather have the authentic original Long Branch parts whenever possible, I’m willing to make parts if need be. For the barrels I can have a #4 barrel relined, or even have new barrels made, but I’m stuck on the windage screws, springs and spring screws.

Does anyone know if the blueprints for these parts are available like they are for the US rifles and if so where to find them?

Thank you, cheers
Mark
 
for the spring screw there is a metric pitch screw that is almost the same . only a matter of getting them at a bolt supply store , cutting to length and running it into the threaded hole.
the barrels can be made with winchester 67 barrels, or other long vintage barrels , put in to enfield barrel stubs.
 
gaff said:
for the spring screw there is a metric pitch screw that is almost the same . only a matter of getting them at a bolt supply store , cutting to length and running it into the threaded hole.
the barrels can be made with winchester 67 barrels, or other long vintage barrels , put in to enfield barrel stubs.
Click to expand...

The muzzle end of a scrap .303 barrel can be sleeved onto the .22 barrel, to get the front sight lugs.
With the military forestock and handguards, the made up barrel cannot be seen.
 
gaff said:
for the spring screw there is a metric pitch screw that is almost the same . only a matter of getting them at a bolt supply store , cutting to length and running it into the threaded hole.
the barrels can be made with winchester 67 barrels, or other long vintage barrels , put in to enfield barrel stubs.
Click to expand...

I never thought to check metric threads.
Thanks for the tip, cheers Mark
 
I have some new in the grease receivers and some parts but missing barrels. I have some of the parts you are looking for but things are in turmoil at the moment. We are waiting for the results of tests on my wife.
 
The screws for the windage spring are just a #3-48 slot drive screw...not metric. I have a jar full of brass ones....steel ones aren't hard to come by but getting them in slot drive are a little harder.

Here is a link to Amazon where you can buy enough of the screws to supply half of the total production of Cno7s. : https://www.amazon.com/10000-Machine-Screws-Round-Fasteners/dp/B01AWRDB5Q/ref=sr_1_61?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1497758946&sr=1-61&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11433953011
 
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gaff/tiriaq: Thank you. I never thought about using a barrel from a different make and "grafting" an Enfield muzzle on it. This gives me more options till i find the magical crate of new, never used,C No 7 original barrels. :)

albayo : I'm sorry to hear about your wife. I wish her all the best. When things settle down please let me know if you'll part with some of the #7 parts.


Stencollector : Thanks for the info. I'll order a bunch from Amazon today. It amazing to what you can find on that site.

Re Blueprints: Does anyone know about Enfield blueprints. They must exist somewhere because how could they have made the stuff with out blueprints. It took a couple of years to find the Bren MKIII prints so I'm giving up on these Enfield prints.
 
1) Barrel lining is the best option as it maintains the correct barrel profile. Need to turn down the bayonet lugs. CNo7 barrels are very rare and if you find one it will be pricey.
2)Somebody on here has rear sights and windage screws for sale as a set.
3)The clicker spring screw is a raised round head slot Brit thread (BA) so don't waste your money on 3-48's or other imperial screws that are close in size.

CNo7 is an awesome rifle. Parts are getting tougher to find so when stuff comes up it's a great investment. Just look at the price of these rifles now....$2500 range complete.
 
rgg_7 said:
3)The clicker spring screw is a raised round head slot Brit thread (BA) so don't waste your money on 3-48's or other imperial screws that are close in size.
Click to expand...
Do you make this stuff up as you go along, or do you have any factual information. Perhaps it is that same information source that has you selling recycled scrubbed Cno7 receivers as NOS on the EE.

According to the supply manual it isn't a BA. As well, there is a RCEME 1961 modification instruction on how to convert a no4 receiver into a Cno7 receiver when no7 receivers were in short supply. Both list the hole or screw as #3-48UNC. Don't forget that the particular screw is only used on the Canadian Cno7 so there really was no reason to use a BA thread.

From the C-71-108-000/MX000 Cno7 parts manual: 5305-00-042-1444 Screw, machine, round head, slot drive, steel, no3-48UNC-2A, 0.125 in long. One manufacture given is 94226 (General Motors of Canada) part number 421444. Note that the cataloque of material will show civilian part numbers long after those companies have abandoned them.....it is highly unlikely that GM will still supply that item.

If you type 3-48 screw into ebay, you will also find them available in smaller lots than Amazon, although you may have to shorten them or live with the extra length. After all, you likely don't need 10,000 of them.
 
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MarkdevCanada. Went through my Brownells kit and found a little screw that fit my receiver. It will need to be shortened. If you want it, PM your mailing address, and I send it.
 
Tiriag: thank you for the offer but I should be ok now. I've ordered a gross of black oxide screws. They should more than cover my needs

Stencollector: thanks for the info. I was able to find a box on eBay


Everyone: Well I've done it again. I just sent payment for bunch more C No 7 receivers, enough to use up all my parts and then some. Guess I have to start all over looking for parts :) Oh well a good excuse to go to a bunch more gun shows.

Thanks everyone, cHeers mark
 
StenCollector:
Thanks for the information . I ordered a gross of screws on ebay, they arrived yesterday and they fit perfectly. By the way the screws I found were listed for "sewing machines" repairs.

Everyone:
I'm not sure why, as I didn't need so many, but I purchased a bunch more C No 7 receivers. I think I'm up to around 20 or so now. Never can have to much of a good thing. :) Fortunately I was able able to also by a bunch more sights, bolts head, target slings, short firing pins etc so I should be OK on those, but still need barrels, that little spring for the windage indent and a couple more magazines. Original Long Branch parts would of course be my preference, but I'd sure love to find blue prints so I could make parts as a back up plan. I wounder if the War Museum has them and would let me make copies?
 
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A US barrel maker has been producing No. 4 barrels. I wonder if they would do one with a .22 blank. No lugs needed, so it would be easier for them than dong a .303 barrel.
I've started a SMLE version. Turned a chamber insert for the .303 chamber, and have run the liner drill all the way through. The chamber insert extends from the breech, comes back until the bolt head almost makes contact.
 
tiriaq said:
A US barrel maker has been producing No. 4 barrels. I wonder if they would do one with a .22 blank. No lugs needed, so it would be easier for them than dong a .303 barrel.
I've started a SMLE version. Turned a chamber insert for the .303 chamber, and have run the liner drill all the way through. The chamber insert extends from the breech, comes back until the bolt head almost makes contact.
Click to expand...

Liner fits the drilled out barrel very nicely. Will be bonding it in this week.
Will need to convert a .303 bolthead to rimfire. This is quite a straightforward job.
 
Liner is installed. Next step will be to trim the liner at both ends, crown the muzzle, face off the breech end, and ream the chamber.
 
Muzzle crowned, breech faced off, chamber cut. Used a match reamer. Converted a bolt head to rimfire. Drew back the hardness, drilled a 1/4" hole through, soldered in a 1/4" plug, faced both ends. Drilled an offset two diameter hole for a firing pin, made a firing pin to fit. Altered a .303 firing pin into a striker, cutting off the tapered tip, leaving a flat end. Test fired. No issues.

Next step will be to set up an extractor, and cut the extractor notch in the barrel breech.
 
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