Citori/light firing pin strikes? **UPDATE#2~I have pins, bottom one doesn't fit**

.22LRGUY

.22LRGUY

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Hey guys~a little over a year ago, I inherited a 20ga. Browning Citori in pretty nice condition. Test-fired a few times with no issues, but it's only been in the last week or so I've really had much chance to really test it out. I've noticed that the bottom barrel only fires about 1/2 the time and when it doesn't (and on inspection) you can see there are some very light firing pin strikes on the primers. Now, this older gun sat for some time before it ended-up in my possession and other than some corrosion on the barrels (had them refinished/rust-blued) the gun is in what I'd describe as VG condition. I can't remember the year of manufacture, but it has fixed choke barrels, gold trigger, etc.

I hit YouTube on the weekend and saw how to swap-out firing pins on these guns but first obstacle (besides getting the pins/springs themselves) is NOT having the tool req. to remove the stock. Is there any chance gummed-up oil/debris could be the cause...or...track down the req. parts+tool and just replace both firing pins while I'm in there?

Comfort level working on a gun like this~very low. lol An 870? Could literally work on one of those blindfolded! :)

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UPDATE 1

Hey guys~just wanted to update you on this. I have the gun apart, only to realize that I don't have a small enough punch to remove the firing pin "retainer pins"...so calling it a night for now. I did check the serial # with Browning's site, the gun appears to be a 1979 "3", Grade 1 Hunting" Citori. Going to contact WGP with the actual serial # to see if they have firing pins for it. Might replace them now that "I'm in". Only hiccup was not realizing the trigger guard had to come off..then not realizing how that was achieved at first. Fortunately, I hadn't been trying too hard so separate the action from the buttstock...or the trigger guard might have taken an interesting shape! Never force...if it's not coming apart, figure-out why.

Also...while in homework mode...I did a little refresher on the barrel stamps that indicate the choke;

Upper~MODIFIED
Lower~IMPROVED CYLINDER

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UPDATE 2

Hey guys~I might move this question over to the gunsmithing forum, but figured there might be more shotgunners over here...so I'll "test the waters" so to speak. So, I took delivery of my 2 replacement Citori pins from WGP about a week ago, and finally got to the task of replacing them. Upper pin~no problem. Was a tighter fit than the original (which dropped in) but all good there. The bottom pin~removed it, attempted to put the new one in and again...tight fit. Re-cleaned/another thin coat of oil and I got it in...almost. It wouldn't seat all the way. I wondered if there was an obstruction but then compared the old pin (again, which doesn't shoot reliably) to the new one. Different shape. In the photo below, the new pin+spring is at the bottom, the original pin/spring at the top. I messaged WGP with this same photo and this was their reply; Browning has only these firing pins and state they can be fitted to that vintage. They might not be plug and play for 1979.

Now, I don't own a lathe but am a pretty resourceful guy....BUT...simply trying to re-shape the new pin TO the old one might mean trying to copy a pin that doesn't actually function properly...so I'm officially stuck. What DOES the proper pin look like if I have a NEW one that doesn't work, and an old/worn one that doesn't really work either!?! Grouse season opened 2 days ago too! lol I don't really know what the next step is here, looking for some input I guess. If I get how this gun works, the purpose of that spring is to push the pin back into the action so that the barrel closing doesn't damage it...no? If I'm putting that pin in my cordless drill, then eyeballing the bench grinder...how critical are the dimensions on these if I work slowly/meticulously?

I appreciate any/all constructive input. Thank you!

**1 more detail... Being an optimist, after a thorough cleaning...I put the gun BACK together with the original lower pin, and new upper pin...and took it for a test shoot. Bang/Bang....Bang/Bang...Bang/"click". No change. Thought I'd add that detail in case anyone recommends just cleaning/reinstalling should work. lol

aCJIc6G.jpg
 
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Try flushing the pins from the face and keep the gun facing downwards to allow excess fluid and crud to drain.
Nothing to loose till you gain some more information on how to disassemble the gun to allow access.
Prolly better to buy three pins while your shopping.
Replace the two in there and keep a new one and the old one(s) for spare?
It is easier to spend others money though and me I like to fix things till they break.
Rob
 
Don't let the though of taking it a part throw you it is not really that complicated . western gun parts should have the parts .but they will want the browning part numbers to fill your order . these can be found on the browning site . if I recall correctly 2 firing pins and the spring ( only 1 pin has a spring ) cost me about $ 60 shipped to my door .
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I'd be inclined to try the "flushing" idea if I knew the history of the gun and how well it was/wasn't maintained. Nothing but question marks at this point though, so I'm very curious about the condition/cleanliness of the innards. Old guns can be pretty gummed-up with sticky old oil..

So the tool for taking the stock off~I guess I'll ask WGP about that when I contact them...?
 
Isn't 'cheddite' challenger?
My new to me citori .410 is piercing challenger primers. I'm facing a pin replacement myself.
 
There is no special tool to take the stock off. Remove the butt pad, its held in place by 2 screws. Then you will see the thru bolt in the hole in the stock, this holds the stock to the receiver. You can hold a flash light to the hole to see it better or but the stock under a light. I think on a Citori its a slotted head. Unscrew that bolt and then pull the stock from the action, you can now see the workings of the action. Give it a good cleaning if needed and go from there. The Citoris have a very robust action, sounds like yours might need some maintenance and maybe replace some worn out parts, pins springs etc. A good gunsmith could have that thing running perfect in no time.
 
My Citori stock bolt uses a metric hex key. Believe its 6mm(?). You can get them as bits with 1/4" shafts then use a long bit driver or socket with extension.
I don't think that is true across the board though, and maybe yours does have a slot.
 
cath8r said:
Isn't 'cheddite' challenger?
My new to me citori .410 is piercing challenger primers. I'm facing a pin replacement myself.
Click to expand...

Challenger uses cheddite primers. They are known for piercing, particularly on the lower barrel of over and unders - the firing pin is at an oblique angle. Switch ammo, or re-radius the firing pin...
 
cosmic said:
Challenger uses cheddite primers. They are known for piercing, particularly on the lower barrel of over and unders - the firing pin is at an oblique angle. Switch ammo, or re-radius the firing pin...
Click to expand...

Exactly why as much as I'd prefer to support Canadian ammo companies that I do not. Challenger and Score both use cheddite primers. Two fellows I shoot with locally had to replace firing pins on two brand new quality over unders before either gun reached 2500 rounds fired. They blamed it on the guns and sold them. I had the same brand gun but never shot anything but Federal through it and never an issue. Then I tried some Kent and major issues during a registered shoot while shooting doubles. Only afterward I was informed Kent uses Cheddite as well. So it's back to Federals and no more issues.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys, very much appreciated. I assumed it was a long allen key required but being an older Citori, maybe it's a slot...? One way to find out!

I'll get it opened-up this weekend for a look, and report back.

Re: the Challenger~correction...I had Challenger with me for my 12ga, but remembered everything I put through the Citori was #7-1/2 Winchester White box target loads. I think I'm back to it being a firing pin problem, but I'll revisit this thread "once I'm in". Thanks again for the input guys.
 
.22LRGUY said:
Thanks for all the replies guys, very much appreciated. I assumed it was a long allen key required but being an older Citori, maybe it's a slot...? One way to find out!

I'll get it opened-up this weekend for a look, and report back.

Re: the Challenger~correction...I had Challenger with me for my 12ga, but remembered everything I put through the Citori was #7-1/2 Winchester White box target loads. I think I'm back to it being a firing pin problem, but I'll revisit this thread "once I'm in". Thanks again for the input guys.
Click to expand...

The problem is you have no idea what the gun fired in the past and I would bet the farm your pins are damaged / eroded from at one time shooting cheddite primers and piercing
It is a very common problem with these brownings and pin replacement is common as a result
Cheers
 
3macs1 said:
The problem is you have no idea what the gun fired in the past and I would bet the farm your pins are damaged / eroded from at one time shooting cheddite primers and piercing
It is a very common problem with these brownings and pin replacement is common as a result
Cheers
Click to expand...

I have a hunch you're right. Now...as to why it fired sometimes and not others? Good question. I emailed WGP this morning to inquired, saying I THOUGHT it was a 70s-era gun. They replied saying they hope it's not, as some guns dating back that far don't have firing pins available anymore. They need the serial #, going to provide that to them tonight.
 
If your going to remove the stock do not try to pull the wood free of the action as you can crack the stock at the back of the inletting . loosen the stock bolt several turns then use a blunt drift and a hammer through the stock to tap on the bolt head to drive the action free of the inletting . this may help you determine what type citori your gun is and if parts are available .

Browning Citori Type definitions.
Current Browning factory nomenclature defines three types of Citori for parts identification purposes and there are actually four types to consider.

The first is the Citori made from 1973 through 1976. Browning no longer has many parts for this vintage of firearm, therefore this version is not included in current Browning parts lists. Examination of the reciever will reveal that there is no engraving on these models. This variation is often referred to as the coil spring Charles Daly. or pre type 1

The Type I - Slanted Receiver refers to the Citori made only in 1977. These firearms will contain the letter designation RR within the serial number. The stock inletting of the side panels where they butt to the receiver appears to slope backwards.

The Type II - Straight Receiver refers to the Citori built between 1978 and 1982. These firearms will contain one of the following letter designations: RP, RN, PM, PZ, or PY, within the serial number. This version resembles the original Superposed model in which the stock panels mate to the receiver.

The Type III - Radius Receiver/Long Tang Triggerguard refers to the Citori built from 1983 to the present. This model also has a close resemblance to the original Superposed where the stock panels and receiver mate. The bottom edge of the receiver and the corresponding area of the stock panel is radiused.

Type III - Radius Receiver / Short Tang Trigger Guard - All Field and Target models produced since August, 1994, as well as all Sporting Clays models have been manufactured using the short tang trigger guard.
 
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If you are confident working on your 870, the Citori shouldn't be difficult. Just need to figure out if it is a hex key holding the stock. My Citori XT (newer than yours) began suffering light strikes on the lower barrel this past winter. I bought new firing pins and upgraded springs from J & P Custom Products out of the US. The most difficult part was making a spring compressor out of a pair of channel lock pliers. Mine did not require the new firing pins, just the new springs.

Only problem ordering from J&P is minimum shipping I think was $25, so I got a couple orders for other guys at the same time. You'd first have to identify the vintage of your gun to see if they carry replacement parts for it.
 
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rembolt said:
If your going to remove the stock do not try to pull the wood free of the action as you can crack the stock at the back of the inletting . loosen the stock bolt several turns then use a blunt drift and a hammer through the stock to tap on the bolt head to drive the action free of the inletting . this may help you determine what type citori your gun is and if parts are available
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input rembolt. Not 100% sure what you're describing ^ there. I get the reasoning behind it though. Is the idea to just gradually work them apart vs. a sharp tug that could result in the stock coming away from action at a bad angle...resulting in a chip/crack?
 
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