Threading barrel for muzzle break - what should it cost?
- Thread starter ericrose
- Start date
Fair enough is it a side port or a 360 deg port? Does it need to be tapered to match the barrel contour? Does it need to be bored out to match the cal of your rifle? There can be a lot that goes into a simple break install
I for one much prefer to have the brake in hand to thread the barrel precisely to fit that brake rather than just thread a standard loose fit. I much prefer to finish bore the bullet clearance with the brake on the barrel rather than simply bore or drill oversize separately. It results in a more efficient better performing brake.
This. I have my own opinions about screw on brakes. I personally don't prefer them. That doesn't mean they don't work well if installed properly as mentioned in a couple of replies above.
For a brake to work properly it has to have very little clearance all around the bullet from the muzzle of the barrel to the outlet of the brake. Many off the shelf brakes have a large opening right after the barrel muzzle and a very short end on the outlet that actually has a reduced bore diameter. The problem with this type of brake is that propellant gasses pass the bullet while it's still in the brake. IMHO this can cause accuracy issues and like guntech mentions when the outlet inside diameter is to large, it also reduces the effectiveness of the brake. Also as mentioned, brakes need to be absolutely concentric to the axis of the bore.
If the brake you purchase later doesn't fit properly, say sloppy threads or either fitted end is slightly off concerning concentricity to the bore's axis accuracy can go awry in a hurry and it isn't a particularly easy fix.
Back in the sixties I can remember some of the shooters I admired extolling the qualities of brakes. None of them had one mind you but I was impressionable and interested in the subject so I gobbled it all up eagerly, without question. As it turned out the smiths and machinists making the brakes understood the concept reasonably well buttttttt many of the brakes failed to deliver the benefits miserably. In those days, many of said brakes were just to big and in some cases were installed improperly creating harmonics issues as well.
OP, if you're going to get it done. Get both pieces fitted at the same time by a smith that knows his stuff.
CNC machines do wonderful work. All of the brakes I've seen made on them are very close to perfect. Getting a rifle muzzle threaded to match as a one off is a whole different ball game.
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Exactly - if you want a brake that functions optimally, that is how it is done. Barrel is set up in the lathe, indicated in on the bore, and the threads are cut co-axial with the bore. The brake is custom fitted, then the bore of the brake is opened to the correct size, also co-axial with the bore. It will cost more.
If you just want something hung on the end of the barrel, just have the muzzle threaded, and screw it on.
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Not sure what it will cost but in Canada you will be waiting at least 6 months to get that 5 minute job done at a Smith 
Doing it properly is no 5 minute job. Even ruining the barrel with a die takes longer. As far as waiting time goes, that varies substantially. Last week a professional installation was done in the evening so that the rifle would be ready to use the next day.
Talk to the 'smith you want to do the job.
Talk to the 'smith you want to do the job.
the guy that did mine, also requested the brake. when he was done he had installed it and indexed it so I just had to put in the set screw.
Why did you need a "set screw?" There is a good reason for the fit of those threads to be very close. A drop of Loc Tite if you're really concerned but even that shouldn't be needed.
Not sure what it will cost but in Canada you will be waiting at least 6 months to get that 5 minute job done at a Smith
Not only are you not sure of the cost, but you haven't a clue on the time it takes to set up and precisely thread a barrel.
Your tone however sounds like you have had a bad experience with a 'smith'.
I've known some people/assisted w/ DIY- {practiced} on some beater SKS's & read up online/youtube etc. They turned out well..doing by Hand, but again, was on a $150 rifle & was pretty fun/interesting project/timewaster to learn on.
Didn't want to use locktite because I shoot corrosive ammo sometimes. Wanted it to be easily removable. It was either a lock nut or a set screw. Set screw imo keeps it cleaner looking.
Got an email back from The Shooting Centre in Calgary. They want $280 just to put threads on the barrel. Seems a bit steep to me. The advise given above is great and I really appreciate it! I will do some research on brakes etc. and buy one before getting it fitted. Brentwood Bay sounds like a nice place to visit
Loctite won't be affected by corrosive ammo or the vibration when firing and thread lock comes in different strength so you can pick a medium or low strength if you want to remove it. If you want to remove the Brake often I would recommend you go with lock nuts it may not look the nicest but it is the best way to fit a brake repeatedly. The threads can be cut so that the brake is square without needing loctite but repeatedly removing the brake and re screwing it on the threads of the brake would eventually act like a die and you would soon be off by several degrees likewise set screws can mark up your barrel or damage the threads if they tighten onto them.
I also prefer the brake on hand before threading. Sometimes the internal brake threads are tight or loose. Therefore, I can perform a perfect thread match to that brake that doesn't require any crush washer or loctite.
In fact, I use grease so it can come off again without brute force.
In fact, I use grease so it can come off again without brute force.
