In my experience, that combo is NOT water soluable
Can't be the first guy to do this....
- Thread starter Alpheus
- Start date
In my experience, that combo is NOT water soluable
I found one DRYER in the web, its made by Frankford Arsenal, just doesnt know to attach a pics.
Havent tried rinsing my brass yet, always retumble to get rid of the lube, like I said before media get stuck in the primer pocket and inside the brass, although have a decapping die in the first station just for the media.
Havent tried rinsing my brass yet, always retumble to get rid of the lube, like I said before media get stuck in the primer pocket and inside the brass, although have a decapping die in the first station just for the media.
I rinse my Lee lanolin sized cases in lacquer thinner. Add some thinner, agitate for 10-15 seconds, dissolves the lube instantly. Drain the thinner. The cases dry very quickly. The thinner can be used several times before it needs replacing. Just do it in a well ventilated area. Works much better than rinsing the cases in water, however.
Except then he's starting over having to size and tumble them again and just wasted a brass cycle on a "not-too-hot load" so not really a solution.
For the OP's current problem I would just throw them back in the tumbler for a couple hours. If your media is contaminated replace it, it's cheap.
I tumble my dirty brass before sizing (to help keep my dies cleaner and prevent scratching the brass) then lube with Hornady paste lube that comes in a little tub (pretty sure it's Hornady), I wipe it on with my fingers and just put a tiny bit on the inside of the case mouth every ten or so cases or when I feel them starting to stick a little. I've had the same little tub for around 7 years and it's still around half full and I've reloaded thousands of rounds with it. When done sizing/depriming I simply wipe off the leftover lube with a towel, next is the case prep station where trimming and primer pocket cleaning is done then prime and load. There is no need to wash the brass after sizing unless you are using too much lube, a quick wipe of the outside is all you should need. The inside of the case neck does not need much lube as you're just dragging the expander back out.
I have the Frankford Arsenal dryer it works really well. Possibly not much different than the guy putting them on the heat register. Just quicker as your not waiting for the furnace to cycle off and on. I find it speeds up the process of washing the brass. I too experienced the wet corn cob mash in the cases. Not making that mistake again unless I have a brain fart and skip a step. Reloading is a nice way to take your mind off the rest of the world while you concentrate on what you are doing. I don't want to wreck the moment with this type of frustration.
I spin the brass on a clean rag just before i use the lee case length gauge and cutter. Cleans the lube right off.
Also if you want to dry cases, i have used a small, zippered mesh laundry bag and pinch the bag in the door of the clothes dryer and run it on high for 15 min.
I do this after annealing.
Also if you want to dry cases, i have used a small, zippered mesh laundry bag and pinch the bag in the door of the clothes dryer and run it on high for 15 min.
I do this after annealing.
I do this as well. Chuck the brass in the Lee Lock Stud (which is chucked in a cordless drill) and spin in a rag to remove the lube. Just needs a second or two. When it's colder in the shop, I'll put some methyl hydrate on the rag if it feels like the lube is not coming off. The methyl hydrate will leave the brass squeaky clean and it evaporates without leaving any residue.
For bulk cleaning of lube residue, I've sloshed brass around in a small bowl filled with methyl hydrate, dumped the brass onto a clean towel, and let the methyl hydrate evaporate off. This works, but I tend to prefer the spin-in-a-rag approach.
