** Your NEA102 build **

Leg said:
He's a gunsmith, he knows what he's doing. Check around, a few stories of guys breaking uppers using those style. I'd much rather use barrel blocks over that option.
Click to expand...

I don't disagree, but it doesn't mean they can't be used. The one gunsmith I know well has been using a vise block for years without any problems, because he uses it properly. Most times people have broken the upper it is their fault for applying too much torque (far above what is specified).

As far as for me, a man's gotta use what he has at his disposal :)
 
CMC 2 Stage (1 + 3 lb) trigger and MOE Fixed carbine stock installed. Freaking love the CMC drop in trigger, chewed thro 50 rounds of Hirt 147 to confirm reliability and it ran 100%.

The trigger tightened up my groups, Hirt shooting just over 2 MOA, Hornady 168 Amax Match was 1.25 " MOA and I didn't stay long enough to get any GMM 168 downrange but it was easily sub MOA with the old trigger.

Stock is a huge improvement for me, it's rock solid and perfect length of pull with the extra PRS buttpad.

RdUGB4V.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. Can't say enough good things about this gun. I've got an SLR Rifleworks handguard shipping to me right now, then it's off for cerakote and then I think I'm done. All set for hunting season.
 
driller212 said:
I don't disagree, but it doesn't mean they can't be used. The one gunsmith I know well has been using a vise block for years without any problems, because he uses it properly. Most times people have broken the upper it is their fault for applying too much torque (far above what is specified).

As far as for me, a man's gotta use what he has at his disposal :)
Click to expand...

Before I start I know some are going to flame me for this but before I knew how much easier investing in tools (vice block, reaction rod, etc...) made a job go I used to sit on a chair with the rifle held vertically between my knees and lower legs, muzzle pointing up, and I would hold the barrel nut wrench firmly in place with one hand and hit the wrench with a hammer in the other hand to crack it loose.

If I just tried to loosen the nut by turning the wrench I could never hold it tight enough between my legs to get it loose. A good wack on the wrench with the hammer would always give enough force to crack it loose and allow me to finish by hand. The same goes for tightening. Get it as tight as I can by hand then a good wack on the wrench with the hammer to "crack" it tight. Without a wack with the hammer there was no way I could hold it to get it tight enough. Now we're not building a motor here so I see a torque wrench as unnecessary. Anyone familiar with nuts and bolts or mechanics of any kind can easily get a feel for when something is tight enough.

I know it's not the "proper" or the "best" way to do it but there was no way possible to over torque, twist or damage the receiver in any way. The force from the wack with the hammer would go directly to the barrel nut where it was needed. The fact that I could hold the receiver between my legs firmly but not solidly would dampen the force or torque that could be translated into the receiver and took away the risk of damage. It's amazing what a simple quick wack can accomplish compared to plain old brute force torque. I only came across 1 rifle that I couldn't get the barrel off (Troy PAR) using this method so I finally gave in and went with the reaction rod. Now that I have one (actually I just made one out of a piece of solid bar and an old ar bolt) I'll never do it my old way again but that's not to say that I wasn't able to get the job done before.

So yah, I tend to agree, sometimes a man's gotta use what he has at his disposal. As long as you know enough to use brains before brawn one method is no better than the other.
 
Hunter1970 said:
Nice! What length and model of SLR did you get? I placed my order with them just after they closed their doors due to the hurricane looming... Hopefully they will make out OK.
Click to expand...

Helix 13.5", thankfully the sale dropped $50 off it! Ya I hope those guys are alright, SLR is a good group.

Zhou1ping, yes you just specify an Armalite barrel nut in the drop down box when you look at DPMS High handguards. If you check my old posts from about 3 weeks ago, I made a list of all the Armalite compatible handguards I could find in an hour or so and there were like 15 different manufacturers. More than I thought considering Armalite is a rare compared to DPMS.
 
jiffx2781 said:
I only came across 1 rifle that I couldn't get the barrel off (Troy PAR) using this method so I finally gave in and went with the reaction rod.
Click to expand...


I had the same problem with my PAR and bought a reaction rod. I actually called Troy, the rep there stated the only way to get their brake off was with a reaction rod, that is how they are put on
 
DILLIGAF said:
so many people grabbing SLR' Im I the only one who ordered a MI...lol..
Click to expand...

The Midwest is ###y no doubt, much slimmer than the stocker, it was a hard choice but SLR had a good sale on. Almost went Odinworks as well but the SLR was a couple oz lighter and had the exact length I wanted.

All these companies are going to wonder what the hell happened in Canada with a 1000% sales spike in Armalite pattern handguards.


Hunter1970 that's awesome. I'll let you know what it feels like in case yours ends up in the ocean or gets looted ;) The Solo Ultralight was my second choice, tough decision.
 
Bombsquad68 said:
CMC 2 Stage (1 + 3 lb) trigger and MOE Fixed carbine stock installed. Freaking love the CMC drop in trigger, chewed thro 50 rounds of Hirt 147 to confirm reliability and it ran 100%.

The trigger tightened up my groups, Hirt shooting just over 2 MOA, Hornady 168 Amax Match was 1.25 " MOA and I didn't stay long enough to get any GMM 168 downrange but it was easily sub MOA with the old trigger.

Stock is a huge improvement for me, it's rock solid and perfect length of pull with the extra PRS buttpad.

RdUGB4V.jpg
Click to expand...

Bombsquad68, how did you get the buttstock to fit? I tried it on my 102, but it is like 1or 2'mm too short. I can't get the screw to pass through as it is blocked by the forward edge of the tapered portion of the rail on buffer tube. Did you modify your buffer tube to get it to fit?

SSG69
 
Last edited:
SSG69 said:
Bombsquad68, how did you get the buttstock to fit? I tried it on my 102, but it is like 1or 2'mm too short. I can't get the screw to pass through as it is blocked by the forward tapered edge of the tapered portion of the rail on buffer tub. Did you modify your buffer tub to get it to fit?

SSG69
Click to expand...

The buffer tube is like 1/4" too long , if you cut some off the rear it fits perfect. The last inch of the buffer tube is solid aluminum, there's no issues with trimming 10 mm or so. Just taped it off with masking tape to make it straight and made the cut. Only other trick is the plastic trim piece at the reciever side needs to be threaded on instead of just sliding due to the long threads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom