Czech Mauser

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Victor32

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Hi guys/gals
I need some help getting a better understanding of what I have here. Although in my late 50s I am newbie to milsurp rifle ownership.
Served in the infantry in the '80s and was lucky enough to shoot every infantry hardware from that era in Europe from both West (Nato) and East (the Reds). At the time I was too young to look for "gems".
My last acquisition is this number-jumbled Czech Mauser, or at least this is how it was presented to me. Bought it blind - sight unseen. I am sure there are people on this forum that can explain in great detail what I bumped into. But I don't want to abuse anyone's time and I will be grateful for any info. Paid C$500.
I am tempted to keep this rifle at least for cosmetic reasons. Haven't fire it yet. Worried that the safety lever seems stuck on "off". Can't move it and I am afraid to use blunt force. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for your kind help.
Pictures here: https://youtu.be/jO2qM84g4_w
 
Not sure... The front barrel band is wrong for a VZ. 24... Not my pic, but easy enough to find a pic of the barrel band online:

fusil-mauser-brno-vz-24-tchecoslovaquie-calibre-8x64s-all-xxe.jpg


No markings on the top of the receiver? Usually that's where the date would be.

Brno made the VZ. 24 from 1924 through the 50s. When Germany occupied the Czech Republic, they had the factory keep pumping them out and issued them to their own troops. They were close enough that it's conceivable the front barrel band got swapped out by a regimental armourer, or possibly by the Soviets after the war (they captured hundreds of thousands of Mausers, and subjected them to the same mixmaster refurb program after the war that they put their own equipment through).

Markings on the top and left side of the receiver would give a better idea of what you have, although I didn't spot any of that in the video.

If it is a VZ. 24, they're great rifles. Among the best licensed production K98 style rifles made. Brno was a first class manufacturer. Still is, in a sense, if you count the ones still being made by CZ on the same equipment after they bought out Brno.
 
Horilka said:
It's a Frankenstein built on Spanish Mauser action.
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Yeah, sorry to say, but it's in 98K configuration with what looks like a Russian refurb type finish but those proofmarks are from a postwar Spanish M43 and I don't know of any way those parts could end up in that configuration from a military arsenal. I'd get it headspaced before I shot it, especially if the safety doesn't seem to be working properly.
 
Thank you to Grelmar, Nyles and Horilka. (a) two markings on the receiver "6622" and "cal 7.92 P R" (b) front band marking "602" (c) markings on the bolt "4179" on the safety lever, "1239" on the handle (d) marking on the butt plate "40201" (e) no markings on top of the receiver

Is it correct to conclude that I got myself a Frankenstein which might have a Spanish Mauser bolt in a 98K receiver and everything else is a hodgepodge of different pieces reassembled somewhere in good old Soviet Union?
 
No, the receiver is Spanish, the bolt looks Russian refurbed - the cal 7.62 P R and the teardrop / propeller looking mark are 1950s Spanish proofs from an M43 or M44 Mauser. Problem is there's no way that I know of for that post-war Spanish receiver to have ended up in Soviet hands, or those parts to have ended up on a Spanish gun. Sorry to say what I suspect is someone used parts from a Russian capture to restore a sportered Spanish Mauser, or had a spare receiver they built a gun on.
 
Get a gunsmith to look it over good before you shoot it. It might be professionally put together, or some hack job.
 
You guys have been very helpful. I will remember to ask this forum first and then "pull the trigger". Any ideas why the safety might be "stuck"?
On a better note, I got lucky(er) with another rifle also purchased sight unseen. A 1943 M38 Swede made by Husqvarna in 6.5 Swede number matching in pristine condition for which I paid $600. The precision of this rifle is breathtaking despite my eyes which are not in good shape. If any of you guys is curious, I can put some pictures up as a great thank you for sharing so much with me.
 
Victor32 said:
You guys have been very helpful. I will remember to ask this forum first and then "pull the trigger". Any ideas why the safety might be "stuck"?
On a better note, I got lucky(er) with another rifle also purchased sight unseen. A 1943 M38 Swede made by Husqvarna in 6.5 Swede number matching in pristine condition for which I paid $600. The precision of this rifle is breathtaking despite my eyes which are not in good shape. If any of you guys is curious, I can put some pictures up as a great thank you for sharing so much with me.
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Mauser safety will only go on when the bolt is cocked. If it won't go on fairly easily then, there could be an issue with the safety/cocking piece/bolt shroud or sear. Not easy to diagnose over the internet. Any gunsmith will have a drawer full of these parts and be able to fix it easily.
 
Ganderite - Not yet. Found a "grandpa" unitized loader from Mequon (1960s) and bought it for $25 just because. I also found a used centrifugal shaker with steel medium. I will give it a try one day for sure.
Shot only factory from cheap(er) PPU 139 gr or 145 SP or FMJ to more expensive Fusion in 140 and Nosler. Best MOA with Nosler at 75, 100 and 200.
The recoil is so soft - I was able to put a dirt cheap .22 scope on it in 2.5X10x40 on a long Picatinny mount from BadAce Tactical. Found other cheaper mounts as well but I hate scout scopes.
 
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Hitzy - you were dead on. Despite my severe lack of knowledge I managed to take the bolt (almost) apart only to realize that I have no idea how to put it back on. Luckily I used a GoPro to film myself taking it apart and rewinded the video.
Basically what was needed was a very gentle but sustained cleaning. The lever is still stiff but now it works. Sweated like a pig but after 3 hours I got it done.
I am still hesitant to fire the rifle without checking the headspace with go/no go calibers but I have a big itch to take it this weekend to the range and string-shoot it. I couldn't find a 8 mm dummy to tape the back in 1 and then 2 layers ofmasking tape and do a "stupid headspace" check. Did that with a FA-MAS 49 in 7.5mm with a live round when I was shooting basement NATO stuff in the service. Enough to say that it went wrong but not terribly wrong. Scared me stiff for two days.
 
Victor32 said:
Hitzy - you were dead on. Despite my severe lack of knowledge I managed to take the bolt (almost) apart only to realize that I have no idea how to put it back on. Luckily I used a GoPro to film myself taking it apart and rewinded the video.
Basically what was needed was a very gentle but sustained cleaning. The lever is still stiff but now it works. Sweated like a pig but after 3 hours I got it done.
I am still hesitant to fire the rifle without checking the headspace with go/no go calibers but I have a big itch to take it this weekend to the range and string-shoot it. I couldn't find a 8 mm dummy to tape the back in 1 and then 2 layers ofmasking tape and do a "stupid headspace" check. Did that with a FA-MAS 49 in 7.5mm with a live round when I was shooting basement NATO stuff in the service. Enough to say that it went wrong but not terribly wrong. Scared me stiff for two days.
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I highly suggest you watch YouTube for the breakdown of your new Franki K98. Breakdown is simple except for the front barrel band which takes a brass tap or spent brass she'll to remove. The only pain about the K98 is undoing the firing pin because if the tension. Use something solid to press against not the plastic table your working on. I put a whole in my plastic work table with a K98 bolt taking it apart lol. Glad you got the safety working, try some bore solvent with the bolt in pieces and wipe it all well, could just be carbon build up. If you are going to continue to buy milsurps a set of calipers is required to ensure your rifles are chambered I the right calibre (remember 50+yrs of history for alterations to have happened). If the rifle cycles/chambers snap caps your generally good to go from my exp with my K98s
 
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