New Norinco M14 Questions

Z

Zorin91

New member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi everyone, I've just received my new norinco shorty today and i just had a few quick questions.

1.Am I ok to just wipe off the packaging oil that this thing came covered in with a clean cloth after taking it all apart?

2.Should i disassemble the bolt and trigger group and give that all a wipe down as well? I understand that's a bit more complicated but I know there's some great tony ben videos on youtube about that.

3.I've ordered CLP online but I'm just waiting for it to arrive. Is it a good idea to put a very light coating of CLP on all the metal that I'm not putting lubriplate on?

4.Am I correct to think that I really want the inside of the barrel and chamber to be completely dry, so no oil in there?

Sorry if this has been asked before and thank you for your help!
-Zorin91
 
Zorin91 said:
Hi everyone, I've just received my new norinco shorty today and i just had a few quick questions.

1.Am I ok to just wipe off the packaging oil that this thing came covered in with a clean cloth after taking it all apart?

2.Should i disassemble the bolt and trigger group and give that all a wipe down as well? I understand that's a bit more complicated but I know there's some great tony ben videos on youtube about that.

3.I've ordered CLP online but I'm just waiting for it to arrive. Is it a good idea to put a very light coating of CLP on all the metal that I'm not putting lubriplate on?

4.Am I correct to think that I really want the inside of the barrel and chamber to be completely dry, so no oil in there?

Sorry if this has been asked before and thank you for your help!
-Zorin91
Click to expand...


Hey Zorin, welcome to the site. I attached a link to the m14 stickies here on CGN, all the information you need is in there. Read it all and you will answer all you questions.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/forumdisplay.php/474-M14-How-to-DIY-and-FAQ
 
Zorin91 said:
Hi everyone, I've just received my new norinco shorty today and i just had a few quick questions.

1.Am I ok to just wipe off the packaging oil that this thing came covered in with a clean cloth after taking it all apart?

2.Should i disassemble the bolt and trigger group and give that all a wipe down as well? I understand that's a bit more complicated but I know there's some great tony ben videos on youtube about that.

3.I've ordered CLP online but I'm just waiting for it to arrive. Is it a good idea to put a very light coating of CLP on all the metal that I'm not putting lubriplate on?

4.Am I correct to think that I really want the inside of the barrel and chamber to be completely dry, so no oil in there?

Sorry if this has been asked before and thank you for your help!
-Zorin91
Click to expand...

1) Yes, wipe it off. Lube it where it needs it- the stickies cover that as well.
2) I didn't do a thing with my bolt when I got mine, other than 1) above. As for the trigger, I did the "valve grinding compound" job on that. Don't go overboard or you'll end up with a too light trigger.
3) It's alright, but I don't. I do live in a dry climate, but I've never been big on oily guns. Only where it needs it, not on everything.

4) YES. You are correct: you do NOT want any oil in the chamber. The only thing left in my barrels is whatever Hoppes No.9 leaves behind, when I bother to clean my bores, which is rarely.

Make sure you read the M14 "How to/DIY/FAQ's" at the top of this forum. This is my first semi-auto, and it demands a different approach from the bolt actions I grew up with. The reloading is a bit different too.

Welcome to the club!
 
Thanks for the input. I'm right about to start cleaning/greasing based off the how to forum. Wish me luck! Hope I don't come back with another post titled "can't get bolt reassembled" haha also I didn't see it in the FAQ forum but is it generally safe to dry fire my m14?

-Zorin
 
For what it's worth, when I got my M305 I put ALL small metal parts in a tub of Simple Green Degreaser to clean them (assembled bolt, trigger group, op rod, etc, etc). Rinsed thoroughly and dried even more thoroughly. I also advise that you do not disassemble your bolt unless you really know what you are doing. I lost an ejector 2 weeks ago and am still waiting on a replacement. Also, I put some CLP on a rag and wipe down everything. Here in Toronto were it gets plenty humid, I have accumulated some surface rust, a good CLP will help prevent that.
 
Yea I decided not to take apart the bolt after reading your message but I gave it a good cleaning and did my best to dry it up. My rifle is nice and lubed up now but I did notice two things .
1. The gas piston hardly moves on its own, I'm under the impression that it should slide easily when doing a tilt test.
2. I get this gritty feeling when pulling the op rod all the way back, it feels like the spring is crunching? Should I be worried?
Thanks!
-Zorin
 
Zorin91 said:
Yea I decided not to take apart the bolt after reading your message but I gave it a good cleaning and did my best to dry it up. My rifle is nice and lubed up now but I did notice two things .
1. The gas piston hardly moves on its own, I'm under the impression that it should slide easily when doing a tilt test.
2. I get this gritty feeling when pulling the op rod all the way back, it feels like the spring is crunching? Should I be worried?
Thanks!
-Zorin
Click to expand...

S&J Hardware's M14 Op Rod Spring Guide Gen II works wonders for that issue: https://sjhardware.com/collections/m14-parts/products/m14-op-rod-spring-guide-gen-ii

But no, you shouldn't be worried necessarily, definitely think about this inexpensive upgrade though.
 
Zorin91 said:
Yea I decided not to take apart the bolt after reading your message but I gave it a good cleaning and did my best to dry it up. My rifle is nice and lubed up now but I did notice two things .
1. The gas piston hardly moves on its own, I'm under the impression that it should slide easily when doing a tilt test.
2. I get this gritty feeling when pulling the op rod all the way back, it feels like the spring is crunching? Should I be worried?
Thanks!
-Zorin
Click to expand...

The only thing you need to worry about when it comes to the bolt is that the firing pin is free moving in there.
If not then blast some brake cleaner in there and then follow up with rem oil or clp, or just leave dry, but the pin isn't stainless so it "could" corrode over time without a light oiling. LIGHT oiling, not wet, follow with compressed air.

The gas piston SHOULD move slowly when tilted, that means there's a good air seal as there should be, a floppy piston means gas will just blow around it and you'd get cylcling issues.

The "crunching" you feel is the oprod spring compressing against the inside of the rod, just lube the spring and don't worry about it.

Pack as much grease in the bolt roller as you can too, look up videos on packing wheel bearings with grease and use the same technique or BEST option, buy one of Yomama's bolt roller greasers.

Cover ALL your metal parts with oil and then wipe it off leaving a film, not wet, just a light film you can barely feel by hand, this will prevent any corrosion from starting, especially in storage or if kept in a foam case. I repeat, not wet, wipe it off as vigorously as you please, there will always be a film left behind. (just with a dry towel, no brake cleaner!)

Most importantly, enjoy it and welcome to the sickness!
 
Thanks for the recommendation, I had my eye on the black arrow from m14.ca I image it's just as good?
Now for the bolt the pin does move easily but as you said I'm afraid it'll rust so I'll do wat you said when my clp comes in the mail.
Yea so my piston will not move at all on its own with the gas plug on... when I force it to with my fingers I feel suction on the inside of the tube and it gets stuck in 2 positions, all the way out and all the way in, until the suction is released from pulling it over, hopefully that makes sense. Is there a fix that I can do for this? I greased the bolt roller by hand and it seems quite smooth now. I do keep my rifle in a foam case so I'll be sure to oil it well, thanks!

-zorin
 
Zorin91 said:
Yea so my piston will not move at all on its own with the gas plug on... when I force it to with my fingers I feel suction on the inside of the tube and it gets stuck in 2 positions, all the way out and all the way in, until the suction is released from pulling it over, hopefully that makes sense. Is there a fix that I can do for this?
Click to expand...

Did you clean all the cosmoline from the gas cylinder and piston? It needs to be clean, carbon free (within reason) and dry.

M
 
I did clean it but not extremely rigorously. So I'll go clean the inside a bit more and see if the problem persists.
 
I'm ashamed to admit it but it looks like that fixed it! It's moving veeeeery slowly but all on its own! I guess I didn't clean it as well as I thought haha thank you!
-Zorin
 
Zorin91 said:
I'm ashamed to admit it but it looks like that fixed it! It's moving veeeeery slowly but all on its own! I guess I didn't clean it as well as I thought haha thank you!
-Zorin
Click to expand...

If your rifle is BNIB it may take some rounds down range to smooth things out provided it's cleaned properly. Once broken in, with the rifle pointed down and the action locked back, a tilt up should produce a audible thunk and a tilt down should produce the same thing. I scrub my gas system out with Hoppes #9 and a brass bush once a year, then dry thoroughly and swab with just a hint of CLP (I'll probably get flamed for that).

My 2007 was so icky with cosmoline I striped it down and soaked all the metal parts in gasoline for a couple hours, let dry, then hosed down with WD40, let dry again, then oiled with CPL. The chu wood stock I ran through a dishwasher (not mine...:p) a couple times on the pots and pans cycle (Worked GREAT).

Picked up a SKS about the same time that was worse cosmoline wise. Same treatment, gasoline bath, dry and oil.

M
 
Last edited:
Have you checked to make sure that the gas port in the barrel is lined up with the gas port in the gas cylinder?
I used a small Allen key (1/8" I think) through the bottom hole in the bottom of the gas cylinder. Look down the barrel to see if the Allen key clearly protrudes into the barrel
 
I'm taking it to the range tomorrow so i'll have a better idea then about the gas system. Haha that sounds nuts, luckily mine wasnt too bad with the oil that it came soaked in but it still took me ~3 hours to clean and lubricate the whole thing! And yep the gas port alignment is good, I checked it when i was troubleshooting so to speak. Only real problem I've got on my hands is the op rod guide being loose :( sadly one of the only things i wouldn't try to fix myself. But ill probably take it to a gunsmith soon.
-Zorin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom