Non-corrosive 7.62x54r (homemade)

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NaviDave

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I am starting a new thread on converting Bulgarian x54 to non-corrosive.

I pulled the bullets and measured the surplus powder (avg 48.0 grains). I then re-used the powder in new PPU brass with a CCI Large Rifle primer.

X54.jpg

PPU 178gr factory on the left, my non-corrosive re-load in the middle and Bulgarian silvertip on the right.

COL is a little shorter (3.000" vs. 3.016"). This is partially because the PPU brass is trimmed shorter than the steel cased surplus. I could correct that and seat the bullets out a little further.

Here are my questions:
1. Should have I reduced the powder charge down from 48.0gr? I have read that case capacity is lower in brass cases - also modern primers are hotter.
2. Is there any point in shooting these through my SVT-40 or will the fluting just eat the brass? I don't want to have to take it down for cleaning after shooting every time.
3. Is the powder definitely non-corrosive (I understand that the primer is what makes this surplus ammo corrosive).
4. Will 0.016" shorter COL make the round even hotter (on top if brass case and modern primer)?
 

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You should have weighed each case with a spent primer in them empty,then re-weighed each full of H20 to figure out internal capacity to avoid high pressure overloads.Then you will have a better idea as to if you should have backed off a grain or two.Mexican matching bullets of the same weight is one thing this is quite another.You can pull a heavy bullet and substitute the same weight or a lighter one but not vice versa.The OAL won't much matter is it is so close.If the case capacity is too out of wack I'd pull them and back off somewhat.A lot of monkeying around for limited rewards IMO.............Harold
 
The round on the left is just there for display purposes. All the silvertips were all close to the same weight - around 148gr (middle and left).

I will fire a couple in a 91/30, then will do the H2O comparison thing. I only loaded 18 - it is quite easy to pull the bullets in a brass case. The kinetic method works for steel case - you just have to give them a whack or 10 (I did push the bullet in to break the seal first).

I agree on limited rewards - I consider this my therapy. I do enjoy troubleshooting and technical work - it's nice to step away from doing tech support (22+ years so far).
 
You could always tie strap a 91/30 to a spare tire on a rim /pointed in a safe direction and fire it with a length of cord ? With reloading ,making stuff you can't buy is 1/2 the fun....I'm playing with some 71gr .32 ACP bullets and 93gr Cast .311 in a 7.62x39 then .303 British and finally 54R for grouse + plinking loads......Harold
 
OP. There are a few different names for the reloading you're doing and its been going on since surplus ammo was first offered to the public. A lot of folks do similar things with 7.62x39 presently.

IMHO, there won't be enough difference between the cases to worry about.

Why???? Simply because neither the Bulgarians nor any other nation loads their ammo to maximum pressures.

When it comes to OAL cartridge length, that is up to you to decide. Play around with different seating depths and whichever is the most accurate in your rifle, use it.

Semiauto rifles often have a tendency to mangle cases. Maybe you'll be lucky??

The powder, is definitely NON CORROSIVE. I salvaged a bunch of Bulgarian ammo that had been submerged for a few weeks last spring. The cases were a mess and it was easier to just pull them down to salvage the components. Their average weight of powder was the same as you measured 48 grains on the nose. Extruded powder with appx the same burn rate as IMR3031.

Seating the bullet deeper WON'T make the round hotter. It will actually give the system a bit of "free bore" which will slightly reduce pressures.
 
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A little update. I fired three brass cased rounds and the shoulder blew forward exactly 25 thousandths(!) on each. For comparison my Savage 16 7mm-08 blew forward just 3 thousandths.

Should I even bother with brass cased ammo for any Mosin Nagant that is that loose? Has anyone had any success neck sizing 1F x54 brass that blown out or perhaps full sizing and back up the shoulder a bit (maybe 0.005"?).
 
When a cartridge headspaces on a rim or belt, it is not unusual for the chamber to be a bit generous.
You could reload treating the cases as if rimless, sizing just enough to allow easy chambering.
If the fired cases chamber freely, neck sizing would be an option for a bolt action rifle.
These reloading options should enhance case life.
 
NaviDave said:
A little update. I fired three brass cased rounds and the shoulder blew forward exactly 25 thousandths(!) on each. For comparison my Savage 16 7mm-08 blew forward just 3 thousandths.

Should I even bother with brass cased ammo for any Mosin Nagant that is that loose? Has anyone had any success neck sizing 1F x54 brass that blown out or perhaps full sizing and back up the shoulder a bit (maybe 0.005"?).
Click to expand...

I have great luck neck sizing 7.62X54R. I've managed to get almost 1/2 MOA at 200M with my sportized Mosin.
 
I do almost the same thing, but to make 303 with the bullets/powder (downloaded 10-15%). No comments on accuracy though, I can't shoot an iron sighted rifle worth a damn.
 
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