I've always loved BP firearms over anything else, I've had revolvers and percussion rifles for many years but never a flintlock although I've shot one maybe twice. I'd like to get into it but wondering if it will be good for me. My concerns are getting real BP, The cost of flints and how long they last plus I'm left handed. Although I prefer military repro's I don't want a smooth bore or using so much lead for a huge ball. Traditions has a couple of rifled .50 cal. ones that seem to have good reviews. So to you guys who shoot and enjoy these do you have any advice for a newbe who's contemplating going this route. Thanks.
Flintlocks
- Thread starter lyman54
- Start date
infideleggwelder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
there were many shops that were selling black powder in eastern Ontario when I left there last year. don`t know what it`s like anymore, but I bought stores out as I drove east. BP very hard to get on NL and I have found not a single supplier. in Grand Pre, NS there is a fireworks factory, can`t remember the name off hand but google fu should find it, will sell Goex to the public. all you need is Govt id.
1873shootist
Regular
Real Black Powder. Yes, you will need that, and 4F for priming, which might be hard to come by. BP is expensive these days. Fortunately, a pound goes a long way, due to the relaxed pace of shooting a muzzleloader. If you shoot a .50 cal, you would get about 100 70 grain loads from it. (7000 grains to the pound)
But, there are small Canadian sources who do specialize in providing it to the Black Powder fraternity, and I'm sure that they will chime in soon.
As far as flints are concerned, these will have to be sized to fit the lock of your gun. Cabelas's? Forget it.
You will need to mail order these from Track of the Wolf in the USA, as well as the accoutrements. You should peruse their website to find out about prices and availability. These guys are your best bet. They have been around a long while, are reliable, and tell you if they are out of stock right on the website before you buy. I have always been happy with them.
Flints might be usable without knapping for 20 shots or so, depending on the type. The synthetic sawn flints have two faces and each face would probably last twice as long, since they seem less prone to chipping. They can't be knapped though.
Should you feel like investing in a kit, T of W have excellent ones which can be imported with no problems, as long as they are described as flintlocks.
The Traditions plain Jane Kentucky has an excellent barrel, though the lock is fairly crude, though functional. It also isn't authentic and represents an entry level rifle to get into the game. T of W sells an excellent more or less drop-in replacement lock for it though.
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Thank you. I know the Stittsville range has BP and yes it's not cheap anymore. Used to buy it for $17 Goex or Elephant Brand. I think that and flints are a main concern. There is certainly more to know about shooting flint than percussion. With Pyrodex easily available cappers maybe the easiest way to go. I've seen videos of a guy using Pyrodex but lock time is very very slow.
I will take partial exception to some of the comments; you do need real black powder because the temperature of ignition is too high when using the synthetics like Pyrodex. I use 50 to 55 gr of 3F black powder and prime with the same. You can use 2F powder (coarser) but will get about 100 fps lower velocity for the same charge of 3F. I carry a little 4F only in case I dry ball or have a charge which refuses to go off and I can trickle a little into the vent hole / back of the barrel. I don't notice much difference in speed of ignition with 3F compared to 4F but 2F for priming is noticeably slower. I get about 20 shots per knapping from my flints and can usually knap twice before the flint is too short, for a total of about 60 shots per flint. That can vary with the design of the lock from a total of 20 or 30 per flint to a total of 100 although somewhere in the middle is more common. I use a 3/16" brass rod hammered with by short starter for knapping and can knap the cut flints with it. The brass rod gives me much better control of how I knap compared to the more common method of tapping the edge with the back of a knife or similar. Not said so far is that many of the reproduction guns use case hardened frizzens and the casing wears through with time meaning that they need to be recased when they stop sparking with a sharp flint
cheers mooncoon
ComradeVlad
Regular
- Location
- To the West
If ur a lefty... It will definitely be worth ur while to find a left hand flintlock.....
If u get a .50cal, your chances of finding shooting supplys, , gear and projectiles will be much higher than other BP calibers....
If u get a .50cal, your chances of finding shooting supplys, , gear and projectiles will be much higher than other BP calibers....
ComradeVlad
Regular
- Location
- To the West
Getting real BP isn't a huge deal.... If u can get 4f powder for priming, u can use an appropriate amount of RS or triple seven and use a bumper charge of 4f down the bore first to set it off. I've found straight RS down the bore will ignite reliably aswell.... It just might not ignite as fast as real BP. But like many will state, using real BP aka Geox powder will result in the best Hassel free performance out of ur flintlock.
maple leaf
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
Buy a left hand flintlock. Are you wanting something historically accurate? Or are you looking for something accurate for hunting such as a Lyman Deerstalker (carbine length and weight)? I use 3F for both my main charge and pan charge. Works like a charm in warm weather and rain and snow. As for flints, you can get them from the USA shops mentioned or from Loyalist Arms here in Canada. Msg me and I will help you out as best I can to answer any question you may have. Also, my buddies gunshop has a lefthand .50 Traditions PA Pellet instock and for sale. Hope that helps. Cheers
- Location
- West coast of Vancouver Island
My advice would be to put your funds toward a good quality lock. Like this company, w w w.redaviscompany.com/locks.
Thank you all very much. Good advice and helps very much. I like historical military pieces mostly but the big calibers like .62-.75 would take to much of my lead. Maybe I should stick to what I know best, that being percussion. I've got a lot of admiration for people who shoot flintlocks and really know what it takes to use them with success.
I was a total newbie to flints two years ago and ended up buying a custom .54 caliber from a board member in excellent condition. I would have been ok with either a .50 or .54 and actually considered a .58 that was posted on the EE for a bit. Everyone advised me to find a rifle I liked with the best lock possible. My rifle has a tuned L&R and sparkles well. I had been looking for one with a siler or similar lock but couldn’t find one that I liked and could afford at the time. I was only interested in shooting real black powder and round balls. Nothing wrong with the more modern styles, just not what I was after. I started using Goex 2 F as that’s what I had but soon found some Old E 3F and expect to totally switch to that as the priming and main charge. There is a NS dealer that stocks good quantities of both. I ordered replacement flints from Track of the Wolf as others have suggested. I’ve got a lot to learn but the .54 has really been a fun, relaxing gun to shoot and it is so darn nice to look at when sitting in the deer woods!
Figure out what you want, take your time, and buy right the first time. That boom, flash, and smoke is pure pleasure now and a flinter will instill follow though like no modern firearm I ever encountered before!
Figure out what you want, take your time, and buy right the first time. That boom, flash, and smoke is pure pleasure now and a flinter will instill follow though like no modern firearm I ever encountered before!
Ar180shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Damn, just ordered a lb/ea of 2F and 4F when I bought my T/C Hawken... Have 1lb of 3F on hand for my BP pistols...
3f in the pan works just fine if you're getting decent sparks off the flint and frizzen.
There's no doubt that there's more of a learning curve for flintlocks. I've been lucky enough to have a great group with knowledge leaking out every pore in my local club.
Along the way I've learned that the locks in some cases are hard on the flints and that tuning the way the frizzen moves off the spring and cam can really extend the life of the flint. A Lyman GPR I have used to require knapping of the flint around 15 shots into a day of shooting a BP event at my club. And by the time I'd shot all 26 targets it was pretty much done. With some tuning based on how well a recently purchased custom built flinter works I'm now going through the whole day without any need to knap the end of the flint. And in fact and the same flint is good for two or two and a half days before it needs a touch up on the edge. Then it's good for a couple of more days.
And yes, the black English flints from Track of the Wolf are the way to go.
There's no doubt that there's more of a learning curve for flintlocks. I've been lucky enough to have a great group with knowledge leaking out every pore in my local club.
Along the way I've learned that the locks in some cases are hard on the flints and that tuning the way the frizzen moves off the spring and cam can really extend the life of the flint. A Lyman GPR I have used to require knapping of the flint around 15 shots into a day of shooting a BP event at my club. And by the time I'd shot all 26 targets it was pretty much done. With some tuning based on how well a recently purchased custom built flinter works I'm now going through the whole day without any need to knap the end of the flint. And in fact and the same flint is good for two or two and a half days before it needs a touch up on the edge. Then it's good for a couple of more days.
And yes, the black English flints from Track of the Wolf are the way to go.
infideleggwelder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
i shoot my right hander left all the time. never get even close to burning myself. its the guy standing beside you that has to worry about the vent hole.....
Fireworks FX, thats the place.
That also applies to shooting a flinter upside down. :>( In one event I had to shoot through a small loop hole without the barrel touching the wood. I have also shot once or twice in upside down matches. The only way I could see my sights was with the gun upside down. Out to 30 or 40 yards the sights are in line regardless of which way up the gun is.
cheers mooncoon
The Lyman flinters have really decent locks and are quite accurate and reliable. You can get barrels with different twist rates as well if you plan on shooting only patched round ball or think you may shoot some Sabots or Minies. They also have some left handed models. As an entry level gun, they are a pleasure. I'd also suggest using Agate flint to start, it can be sharpened easily and is very durable.
My $.02, which nowadays is rounded to $0.00.
My $.02, which nowadays is rounded to $0.00.
