Looking into a new 22-250

[M12shooter]

223 makes a lot more sense in this application than the 22-250. But if he's set on that one, there's plenty of used ones out there in the $500-800 range and some decent new ones too.

22-250 rocks for coyotes. Kills them like lightening...but true. Bit too much gun in most applications, especially in more populated regions.

 

[cath8r]

Run a 22-250. Zero at 200. Hold on fur to 300

 

[CV32]

Mine is a Tikka T3 Lite. Great rifle.

 

[hoytcanon]

Run a 22-250. Zero at 200. Hold on fur to 300

A 50 VM @ 3900 zeroed @ 200, is 4.5" low @ 300... on a coyote, that is a marginal POI... even the 40 VM @ 4200 zeroed at 200 is 4.3" low at 300. If you are going to be shooting long range and do not want to use hold over/under, you are better off zeroing for MPBR. Using the examples above, with a 5" kill zone (2.5" radius), you would zero at 285 yards, your bullet will never be more than 2.5" high or low from zero to 330 yards (with an average 1.75" optic height center).

 

[M12shooter]

A 50 VM @ 3900 zeroed @ 200, is 4.5" low @ 300... on a coyote, that is a marginal POI... even the 40 VM @ 4200 zeroed at 200 is 4.3" low at 300. If you are going to be shooting long range and do not want to use hold over/under, you are better off zeroing for MPBR. Using the examples above, with a 5" kill zone (2.5" radius), you would zero at 285 yards, your bullet will never be more than 2.5" high or low from zero to 330 yards (with an average 1.75" optic height center).

what he says...

 

[Eagleye]

A 50 VM @ 3900 zeroed @ 200, is 4.5" low @ 300... on a coyote, that is a marginal POI... even the 40 VM @ 4200 zeroed at 200 is 4.3" low at 300. If you are going to be shooting long range and do not want to use hold over/under, you are better off zeroing for MPBR. Using the examples above, with a 5" kill zone (2.5" radius), you would zero at 285 yards, your bullet will never be more than 2.5" high or low from zero to 330 yards (with an average 1.75" optic height center).

This is the best way to sight in your varminter. I drive the 50 Ballistic Tip out of my 26" Swift at 4050 FPS, using N540.
I sight in 1.6" high at 100, and that gives me a dead on hold on a coyote out to very close to 350 yards, as noted.
A 55 BT at 3950 is very similar in trajectory. The 22-250 is only slightly less flat, and will work best sighted in similarly. D.

 

[DMS1]

A 50 VM @ 3900 zeroed @ 200, is 4.5" low @ 300... on a coyote, that is a marginal POI... even the 40 VM @ 4200 zeroed at 200 is 4.3" low at 300. If you are going to be shooting long range and do not want to use hold over/under, you are better off zeroing for MPBR. Using the examples above, with a 5" kill zone (2.5" radius), you would zero at 285 yards, your bullet will never be more than 2.5" high or low from zero to 330 yards (with an average 1.75" optic height center).

I tried that but found my issue of wanting to hold over for longer shots instinctively screwed me on a few shots. Now I zero for 100 and hold over. A coyotes body is about 12" at the shoulder, beyond 250 yards I aim for the top of the back. 400+ up to a body height over. Took my longest at 440 yards last weekend. A 10 mph wind is a larger factor than the drop at that distance. I used to under estimate a partial cross wind until I did some research and some shooting. A 10mph wind at 45° angle gets 75% of the drift value. At 375 I have under estimated a strong wind, got the hold over close and spined them near the hips.

Also, I found that 223 and 204 are marginal on a shoulder hit to a 50gr 22-250 in my experience.

 

[CV32]

Also, I found that 223 and 204 are marginal on a shoulder hit to a 50gr 22-250 in my experience.

Bullet choice and shot placement becomes more important in those, less "powerful" cartridges. The 22-250 (and 243, onward) is more forgiving.

 

[cath8r]

A 50 VM @ 3900 zeroed @ 200, is 4.5" low @ 300... on a coyote, that is a marginal POI... even the 40 VM @ 4200 zeroed at 200 is 4.3" low at 300. If you are going to be shooting long range and do not want to use hold over/under, you are better off zeroing for MPBR. Using the examples above, with a 5" kill zone (2.5" radius), you would zero at 285 yards, your bullet will never be more than 2.5" high or low from zero to 330 yards (with an average 1.75" optic height center).

Yeah.... you can hold on its spine area(fur) when you know it's over 200 and possibly hit in heart area when it drops it 4.5".... you win... Idc . .. it's the Internet ....you win...idgaf... lol

 

[hoytcanon]

Yeah.... you can hold on its spine area(fur) when you know it's over 200 and possibly hit in heart area when it drops it 4.5".... you win... Idc . .. it's the Internet ....you win...idgaf... lol

Not trying to "win" anything... but more than you and I read these threads...

 

[Digger1]

Marlin XS7VH. Not any good for hunting due to the weight but damn.....bloody accurate! The only place I've ever seen them is Coastal Outdoors. That's also where I got mine. Won't break the bank and shot a 2" group out of the box with a cheap Bushnell 3-9 at 100m after bore sighting.

Ye old $400 Savage axis will do 4 times better than that. I'd buy one for the kids, but don't care for the magazines.

 

[IvoB]

+1 on the Vanguard had mine for over three years (223 - 1-12 twist) shoots very accurate

 

[cath8r]

Internet ballistic police...

 

[hoytcanon]

Internet ballistic police...

Wrong... "range rat" ballistic police...

 

[SuperCub]

A 2 moa varmint rifle is as useful as mammary glands on a fish.
If it doesn't shoot sub-moa, it gets a "reject" rating by me. D.

Actually not a bad start with that rifle. Tweeking ammo and a better scope with bedding should help a lot. I have one of those Marlin heavy bbl in 223. I expect it to shoot well.