Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Step one, take apart the bolt and clean thoroughly and inspect the extractors and the extractor edge where it grips the case rim while it's apart.
Savage MkII - failure to extract
- Thread starter Jetjock
- Start date
My fvsr has no problems using cci however my btvss has problems with cci sometimes. The things I've found that help are cleaning the extractors, getting new extractors, sharpening extractors, and bending the clamp ring so it has more tension. When my btvss quits extracting, if I put my fvsr bolt in it, it extracts no problem.
*Sigh* Are Anschütz and custom chambers comparable to the Grand Canyon beside a Savage chamber, then? No, if anything the Savage chamber is not as tight as the others mentioned, yet extraction is not such an issue in these rifles with tighter chambers.
The problem ain't cuz of lube or wax on a certain brand of ammo, the presence of such is just a coincidence. Failure to extract is due to insufficient grip of the extractor claw on the rim of the cartridge. The extractor slot may not be cut close enough to the chamber wall, the extractor may not have a sharp enough angle to "bite" the rim, or tolerances between the bolt and extractor claw do not allow the claw to come in far enough to grab the rim.
I vaguely remember the very occasional stuck casing in my MKII before I sold it, I shot many types of lubed ammo such as SK, Lapua, RWS, Eley, and CCI, hardly an issue with any of them. An extraction issue is due to the claw having insufficient "bite" on the rim, why is impossible to diagnose on the internet. If you could remove the barrel like on a CZ 455, filing down the extractor slot with a needle file is a very easy operation to fix this issue (if the extractor slot was not cut close enough to the chamber wall).
I guess you are right about tight chambers not being the culprit. i dug up a photo I took of my FVSR's chamber a while back. I notice the extractor slot at the 9 o'clock position has a noticeably greater distance from the rim of the chamber than its counterpart.
When comparing both bolts from my FVT and FVSR under magnification, I see no difference in the shape and condition of their extractors, so this leads my suspicions to the cutouts for the extractors.
I'll take a dremel this weekend and incrementally remove some material near the chamber rim when I am at the range so i can see if it improves anything.
When comparing both bolts from my FVT and FVSR under magnification, I see no difference in the shape and condition of their extractors, so this leads my suspicions to the cutouts for the extractors.
I'll take a dremel this weekend and incrementally remove some material near the chamber rim when I am at the range so i can see if it improves anything.
Never immerse ammunition into any kind of liquid, it will get in and kill the powder/primer.
There is only one extractor claw on the bolt, it is on the right hand side and would go into the slot at 12 o'clock in your picture. The other part on the left side of the bolt is just the shell holder, it only functions to hold the round in place during cycling but does not do anything to extract the casing from the chamber. It is normal for the slot in the breech face (9 o'clock in your picture) to be cut further away from the chamber mouth. Leave it as is.
The extractor slot does appear to be cut perhaps a touch too far from the chamber mouth (12 o'clock in your pic). If you decide to remove some material from it, be cautious. There is no need to create a razor thin edge, and the chamber wall can blow out if it is too thin. Notice how the slot is ramped, this spreads the extractor away from the casing when you close the bolt, then as you open the bolt the extractor slides back down the ramp to contact the rim. You need to remove material from the entire area that is in contact with the extractor head (not deep down into the slot, just at the chamber mouth). Maybe better to do this at home at the comfort of your work bench before going to the range again, not much material needs to be removed, just a kiss.
Thanks RabitM4U5 for your suggestions. However, Why does the gun eject the first 10 to 20 cartridges and then won't extract if the bolt is at fault? The casings aren't jammed in too tight as usually I can pull them out with my fingernail. What changes other than some sort of buildup, either wax in the chamber or residue on the bolt. I agree that live shells should not be immersed, but could I run through my tumbler using walnut shells?
As my dumba$$ found out, you can actually put the ejector/extractors in the wrong side/way. Also im not sure of the band to hold them in place. Third tip is dont use blazer ammo in them. Will not work well at all (unless you melt the wax off)
Keep in mind that I can't say for sure without having the rifle in hand, but as you describe the issue I'm pretty confident that there is an issue with how deep the extractor slots are cut, that is, they are not cut deep enough or close enough to the chamber wall. As you say, the casings aren't really stuck in the chamber, the bolt is just failing to pull them out. The extractor must be barely making contact with the rim, such that it can pull with a set amount of force before it'll slip over the rim and fail to extract. When the chamber is dry/clean, there is less resistance to pulling out the casing and you can eject those first 10-20 shots. Once some wax/lube gets in there, some resistance is added to removing the casing, could be a suction effect, but now this is too much force for the extractor claw to pull and it slips over the rim. It's gotta be on the ragged edge of contact.
Sorry for my lack of artistic ability, but this is an overhead, cutaway view of how I see the situation. If modification is made to allow the extractor claw to get closer to the chamber wall and make more contact with the rim, I think this issue will be solved for pretty much everyone affected by it. Then you can run lubed ammo to your heart's content.
I'm not sure about putting rounds in your tumbler, rimfire is impact sensitive and I don't know how aggressive those things operate, could be fine... could be a disaster. The lube is good for accuracy, removing it doesn't really address the root of this issue.
Beverkiller
Regular
- Location
- Magic forest
i add the same problem it was not the bolt the problem but the pin to idject the bullet case in the reciever
Really!? My MKII TR loves CCI Blazers. I recently bought 5,000rnds. I'll have to keep an eye on extraction, etc.
Side note....I bought a 10rnd mag and got a few FTFeed. I think the feed ramp angle is different then the 5rnd mag. Ends up stripping the bullet and causing the groups to open up a bit.
Well I didn't get back to read your reply before going to work on it, but luckily what I did was exactly as you described. I took a bit of material down from the center of the mouth were the claw will pass. Just a light grinding with a needle point diamond tip. I definitely did not want to go to far for fear of what you described. I did it before going to the range, even though there's adequate workbenches there, it was too chilly.
Ran about 50 CCI 40 gr LRN, the ones giving me problems, and not a single FTE. So problem solved for me, knock on wood.
thenerdboy
Regular
- Location
- NB, Canada
Didn't read all three prev. pages.
Common issue with these rifles. Chamber needs to be kept very clean and you'll do better with CP ammo as opposed to LRN type stuff.
Common issue with these rifles. Chamber needs to be kept very clean and you'll do better with CP ammo as opposed to LRN type stuff.
