Winchester 94 carbine barrel - refuses to budge!

sean69

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Having some issues removing the barrel from a Win 94 round barreled carbine - I'm using a home made vise, I've pulled several barrels (quite easily) with it in the past.... this one is eluding me.

I generally use lead strips in the vise itself, I even tried aluminum with the carbine but neither seem to get enough purchase on the gun - mostly what happens is once pressure is put on with the action wrench the barrel will slip towards me out of the vise (due to the taper in the barrel)

It's had a couple of rounds of penetrating oil soaking for a couple days and I did try heating it was well. No dice!

Anyone have some tricks/suggestions? (of the non-destructive variety:)


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Don't know what you are using for a wrench but, if it clamps on the outside, use a piece of flat bar inside to make sure the action won't crush. Use powdered resin on the barrel to stop the slippage, then turn harder.
 
acetone/tranny fluid, apply several applications over a couple days.
I've seen this work before, but soaking was more like a week.... :( not in a super hurry... but still.

Don't know what you are using for a wrench but, if it clamps on the outside, use a piece of flat bar inside to make sure the action won't crush. Use powdered resin on the barrel to stop the slippage, then turn harder.
I have a purpose built wrench about 4' long (yea - no issues with leverage!) that I can attach purpose made aluminum pads to(for different actions), this particular one has pads on the outside and a third in between the action frame to support that as well.

Trying to find rosin, but no dice around here, big box sporting goods stores no seem to carry it nor does the music store here .... looks like Amazon, so I do suppose I have a week to let it soak in tranny fluid!
 
Violinists use rosin on their bows. Any store that sells violins/strings/supplies should carry it. Rosin can be dissolved in some turpentine and painted on bbl vise inserts or the bbl.
 
Forgive my ignorance, but since this is an octagon barrel does it not make more sense to clamp something on the octagon rather than the round part? Me thinks that is less likely going to spin.
 
Violinists use rosin on their bows. Any store that sells violins/strings/supplies should carry it. Rosin can be dissolved in some turpentine and painted on bbl vise inserts or the bbl.

none at the local music store - probably have to Amazon it....

Forgive my ignorance, but since this is an octagon barrel does it not make more sense to clamp something on the octagon rather than the round part? Me thinks that is less likely going to spin.

Sorry, no I don't have pics of it, the pics were for the vise ... the barrel I am trying to remove is a round carbine barrel. pictured the "house" action 94 with an octagon barrel.... the other pic is not a winchester.
 
When I have a barrel slipping I put crocus cloth around the barrel then tighten the clamp super tight over it. It seems to hold well for me on the barrel taper. Another trick is to not just pull on the wrench but to give it a snap or a whack like an impact wrench would do. I don't believe soaking it will work as I've never seen rusty barrel threads because of the perfect fit they have and the slight bit of grease applied at assembly. Rust just can't get in there so they are likely just very tight.
 
Unfortunately correct.
My barrel vise is the same style, but...
Blocks are 1 1/2" square steel bars. Bored for 1 1/2" diameter aluminum split bushings. Over the years have made ones to fit most anything I need to work on. Clamp bolts are 7/8-14. Powdered rosin, pulled up tight, barrel does not turn.
Usually M94 barrels aren't that tight. I've pulled a number using the rope trick.
 
Gunnut870, care must be take when clamping a barrel. Doesn't matter if the barrel is being held in a vice like the OPs which has way to much spring in it or if the receiver is held and the barrel is being clamped with a rope or some other device.

I have had barrels actually twist without breaking free from the receiver.

OP, more decades ago than I like to admit to I used similar blocks but of Iron Wood from Brazil. I wish I still had a supply of that very useful wood. I used to clamp them in a 6in bench vice over the barrel. This stopped the wood blocks from bending and allowed them to clamp far more easily. One way to strengthen your set up is to use a piece of 3/8 in angle iron to make it mover rigid. Just drill a couple of holes in it for the clamp bolts to go through and you're set to go.

I tried rosin, crocus cloth and even more aggressive abrasives. Every once in a while a particularly tight barrel receiver assembly would turn. Now I use the same rig tiriaq does only the steel is 2x2 with 1 in NF bolts/nuts. I am lucky in that I can make up sleeves and line them with brass shim stock for a better fit.

Good luck with your
 
I've used fibreglass reinforced body filler to get a tight fit on the barrel blocks but make sure you use a release agent on the barrel and clean the barrel and block off before giving it a go. Also as mentioned powered sugar works as well as rosin to help grip the barrel. I used this combination to remove a barrel from a Lee enfield that had been put on by an 800lb gorilla during WW1.
 
It is important that the barrel be firmly gripped.
But don't forget the receiver wrench. Receivers can be easily damaged.
 
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