Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
I can do that...
Now get back to the range and get that barrel dialed in... Enjoy
Jerry
Now get back to the range and get that barrel dialed in... Enjoy
Jerry
I would go with something that has significant aftermarket support, like the Remington 700 and to a lesser degree Tikka/Savage. Since you are a confessed beginner, it may take you a couple of evolutions of your rifle until you find something you really like. A highly customizable action will make this very easy. While there are products out for the RPR, you are limited by the nature of the design.
Reloading will get you the most benefit regardless of the rifle you get. Consider going with a slightly cheaper rifle (not glass, don't skimp there!) and picking up reloading. Starting with a couple of boxes of factory ammo is an easy way to start and leaves you with ready to use brass.
If you exclude scope and mount, this was an exactly 1600$ budget rifle, including 20 MOA rail, muzzle brake, magazine, bipod, chassis, barreled action.
It's called savage 10TR and SFRC sells them cheap, 24'' 5R 1:10 twist rifling.
Which would leave you 2400$ for optics.
Yes .308, and not 6.5.
Myself am also shooting rifle for the first time this year, and really appreciate .308 for learning.
EDIT : Forgot to mention it involves selling factory rail, stock, and factory 10 round magazine.
Also had found a NIB harris swivel 6-9, and NIB ATRS 20 moa rail on the EE, which contributes to the savings
While you are developing a game plan, try and get behind as many different stocks and chassis to see what feels and fits YOU. Although I can offer various chassis options, my personal tastes bring me to more old school stocks. This is not a right or wrong thing... it's a, "yeah, this fits me" thing.
Once you figure out what the "clothing" should be, the barreled action is a simple decision based on your personal tastes and preferences. There are so many options that all work so this is more an eeenie meenie thing then barreled action A is way better then barreled action B.
If there are any competition now or in the future, that can help narrow down options either because they restrict what you can use or there are better 'mousetraps'.
Unfortunately, current manf factory rifles are hit and miss wrt to performance. Barrels are all over the map with some working great and some stinking. For the budget you are suggesting, I would just start with a donor, put on a match barrel and furniture to suit. Start from the beginning with something that is going to do what you want instead of testing, fixing and replacing as needed. .
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My Rem 783 with a McGowen prefit.. Boyds pro varmint stock modified for the CDI DBM. Tuned factory trigger, replace bolt knob and firing pin spring. Otherwise, stock action. The rifle is under your $2k budget
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Sporting a CarbonSix prefit... this one over your budget but not by much.
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How well can they shoot? here is a test group at 250yds in light gusty winds with the CS barrel, Berger 140gr VLDs... only have a 16X scope on so the aiming error is larger then when using my 32X target scopes. Both barrels have shown the capacity to shoot in the 1/4 to 1/3 min range at 250 to 280yds.
sub MOA out to 1450yds....
If you want to shoot LR, barrels matter. For what it costs to develop a load to find out the barrel is subpar THEN fix it... may as well start with a good barrel and spend less time testing and more time having fun going LR.
Same with optics. No doubt that the more you spend (to a point), the better the product. In the $2k budget, there are a number of really nice products with more coming out each quarter. Do you need to spend that much? If you want to put more funds towards reloading and actually using the rifle, there are some great options sub $1k that have features and function to do the job.
YMMV.
Jerry
Going to have to echo Marty and suggest a Savage 10tr, though I may be biased as I just love a good savage rifle (I live about 5 minutes away from one of their factories), and I adore the .308 cartridge. I picked the rifle up cheap, sold the OEM stock, bottom metal, magazine and put that towards a lightly used MDT HS3 chassis and butstock. Added a Canadian Spatha Tactical muzzle brake and used an old Vortex Crossfire 6-16x50. It was great, and because I have used Vortex to great success I went and sold another toy I wasn't using, and picked up a new Vortex PST GenII 5-25x50 FFP and a American Defense Manufacturing QD 30MOA one piece scope mount. Been loving it to death since, my only regret is that I don't get out enough to shoot it, but it did go hunting with me!![]()
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That looks like a fine rifle. Please keep us posted on how you do.
C'mon Jerry, not only did you barely graze the target, but three rounds is not a group!![]()
I think the advantage of a non-floating bolt head is that you get more surface that is aligned with the bolt, leading to smooth working the bolt. The floating bolt head, means that the head can torque out of alignment with the bolt body as the action is being worked. This is the trade between Sav accuracy, and rem smoothness. You can true a Rem to have both, but the save, while cheaply accurate, can never be as smooth as a remington.




























