Case Annealing

Where is everyone getting this 650 number? When I was doing my research into annealing the number I got on a number of sites was 750. From all this research what the people in the know from many reloader's and metallurgist were saying if temperature doesn't reach the 750 annealing do's nothing for the brass. It seems brass has to reach this temp. to actually be annealed.
 
wce323078 said:
Where is everyone getting this 650 number? When I was doing my research into annealing the number I got on a number of sites was 750. From all this research what the people in the know from many reloader's and metallurgist were saying if temperature doesn't reach the 750 annealing do's nothing for the brass. It seems brass has to reach this temp. to actually be annealed.
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750ºF inside the neck or 650ºF just below the shoulder is about the same
some people are worried about annealing the whole case and use the "below the shoulder" technique.
 
RonR said:
Same here.



My experience as well. The solvent in the solution evaporates very fast. I found that to add more of the solution to the cases required re dipping as opposed to just trying to spread it out. Without doing that it became rough and "clumpy" for lack of a better term. Made interpretation difficult with the uneven surface of the tempilaq. The smoother the application the easier it was for me to observe.



Close to my thoughts as well mod7 however I myself believe it's easy to get adverse results if a person approaches this process unknowingly. This coming from a reloader annealing for the better part of one year so take this post for what it's worth. I started annealing due to inconsistent neck tension on better brass. There is a few good posts on the subject in this forum that can help if one's looking.

Agreed at the pace of which this process can produce. No doubt about that.

Once the duration has been established I use the count down timer on my phone.

That is one hell of a tip using the tie strap! Thanks for sharing that.

Regards
Ronr
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Did you use the thinner product with the Tempilaq?
 
cr5 said:
I never anneal, just use them till I lose them or till I don't like the look of them anymore then replace them.
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Thats what I have been doing in the past as well, but I find that my 7mm brass isnt as forgiving as my other calibres .
 
silverfoxdj said:
Did you use the thinner product with the Tempilaq?
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No. Just shook the crap out of it before use. Found that the only way to make coating consistent was to dip the brush with each stroke. That and cleaning the test cases as a normal procedure for reloading on this end. Without cleaning, coating results were sporadic and what ever I tried to remedy to make consistent didn't work...which got my gander. Cleaned cases finally gave me datum to try different things and voila...it got more repeatable and acceptable.

On the thinner note, I've got to thank fellow 'nutters for the tip to purchase the thinner at the same time as the tempilaq. Thk

Regards Silver
Ronr
 
Dogleg said:
I recently got a molten salt annealing kit from CGNs very own Battlerife. It's pretty slick, as foolproof as working with hot cases is ever going to get, fast and inexpensive. It can double as a lead melter, or at least I don't see why it couldn't since half of it actually is a lead melter.

Once its warmed up, you can do 50 cases in 5 minutes like nothing.
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this looks like a great method for those of us who want a consistent method of annealing without spending $$$$. Thanks - Im going to place an order
 
x2 on the salt bath system from Battlerife. As Dogleg has posted, very slick, very foolproof. I found an "app" for my iPhone that is a metronome - got it going for the five seconds beep, did the "double dip and switch" thing like on Battlerife's video, and you get 2 cases done every five seconds - 100 cases in less than 5 minutes.
 
Mudduck said:
this looks like a great method for those of us who want a consistent method of annealing without spending $$$$. Thanks - Im going to place an order
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woohoo - both arrived today - the Lee melter from Higginson (who are great to deal with) and as well as the salt annealing kit from http://ballisticrecreations.ca/salt_home/salt/ Took them out of the box and drooled over them but I dont have any time to use it for the next 2 weeks .grrr

Excellent fast service/ response from http://ballisticrecreations.ca/salt_home/salt/
 
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Could someone post a link to the salt bath annealer or pm me please. I use the drill and torch method but this looks pretty slick.

Thanks.
 
http://ballisticrecreations.ca for the kit - I ordered a second tub of their salts although the one tub included in the kit gets you going with a couple spoonfuls to spare. It seems I use up a drop or two of the molten stuff with each case I pull out, so eventually I will be into the second tub of salt. Separately, you need a Lee Precision Melter 110 volt (Lee SKU: 90021). I got one online from Cabela's; Higgonson's and other vendors stock them. When your done and everything cooled down, the "puck" of the cooled salt in the melter pops out and fits neatly into the original salt tub for storage until next time.
 
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I must be odd man out, What is the benefit? I have only annealed rifle cases in the rare instances when I needed to form a case, such as making .35 Whelen from 30-06. Otherwise I have just used cases until they started to split at the neck or developed loose primer pockets. I use 1-3x fired brass for hunting loads, older brass for practise and plinking. I don't shoot long range targets or any competitive precision shooting. So I never saw a need to anneal my regular loads for those purposes. Someone convince me I should?
 
Longwalker said:
I must be odd man out, What is the benefit? I have only annealed rifle cases in the rare instances when I needed to form a case, such as making .35 Whelen from 30-06. Otherwise I have just used cases until they started to split at the neck or developed loose primer pockets. I use 1-3x fired brass for hunting loads, older brass for practise and plinking. I don't shoot long range targets or any competitive precision shooting. So I never saw a need to anneal my regular loads for those purposes. Someone convince me I should?
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Brass can be expensive but also can be hard to come by for some cartridges.... I have over 30 loadings on my 6x47 lapua...plus if you do shoot long range like I do it definitely aids in consistency.
 
Longwalker said:
I must be odd man out, What is the benefit? I have only annealed rifle cases in the rare instances when I needed to form a case, such as making .35 Whelen from 30-06. Otherwise I have just used cases until they started to split at the neck or developed loose primer pockets. I use 1-3x fired brass for hunting loads, older brass for practise and plinking. I don't shoot long range targets or any competitive precision shooting. So I never saw a need to anneal my regular loads for those purposes. Someone convince me I should?
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For your purposes I wouldn't either. People who load hot enough that they only get a few loadings out of a case likewise don't need to anneal.
 
Potashminer said:
http://ballisticrecreations.ca for the kit - I ordered a second tub of their salts although the one tub included in the kit gets you going with a couple spoonfuls to spare. It seems I use up a drop or two of the molten stuff with each case I pull out, so eventually I will be into the second tub of salt. Separately, you need a Lee Precision Melter 110 volt (Lee SKU: 90021). I got one online from Cabela's; Higgonson's and other vendors stock them. When your done and everything cooled down, the "puck" of the cooled salt in the melter pops out and fits neatly into the original salt tub for storage until next time.
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Thanks so much for that explanation.
 
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