I wouldn't want to be standing beside you on the firing line if you fired that pistol.
Years ago, a co-worker and I were shooting our duty S&W's at the range. The revolver he was shooting had it's timing out by just a fraction of an inch.
We were shooting +P .38 Special 158 gr. SP/SWC's.
He was standing to my left, and every time he fired I got a painful splash of lead on the left side of my face.
I could see it being an issue if I hadn't been wearing safety glasses and it had hit me in the eye.
FWIW, I've heard of fingers being severed by lead spray from poorly timed pistols, when the shooter had the fingers of their weak hand extending beside the cylinder gap.
I would agree with you but the OP said he was having a gunsmith fit the new cylinder to the existing gun. From what I can tell, he shouldn't have any problems doing that.
Although, once the bolt clicks into the cylinder the timing really can't be adjusted. It's the indents in the cylinder and the bolt latch on the frame that dictates the horizontal alignment to the cone. At least from a rotation perspective. The vertical alignment is chosen by the distance the chambers are drilled from the center of the cylinder which is not adjustable but rather milled to a tolerance from the factory.
The only fitting a gunsmith would do is perhaps adjust the cylinder gap, end shake, and ensure the hand rotates the cylinder enough to get the bolt to latch. If the cylinder gap was too large it's a big job to refit the barrel. End shake is easily adjusted.
S&W have virtually eliminated the competition in the revolver market by making revolvers that could easily be assembled at the factory with minimal fitting and minimal training but still perform exceptionally well.
Edit - in the case of your friends revolver spitting lead the only thing that would cause it to go out of time is the bolt wearing down and/or the cylinder receivers wearing down side to side. The gun smiths cure for this is to buy an oversized bolt that will fit in the worn cylinder receivers tighter. This takes some fitting to set properly.
I only mention this because in the case of the OP, if his bolt is still in good shape, a new cylinder would most likely drop right in and be within factory specs. There's not much to adjust there.
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