Part 1: New to hunting, need advice please.

Step 1
Take beaurocratic courses
Step 2
Buy gun in 308, 270, 30-06 or 7.62x54r
Step 3
Buy licence/soft point ammo
Step 4
Shoot deer/moose
Step 5
Eat

SOFT point bullets btw 150 and 200gr depending on the round will drop whatever animal you hit in the boiler room. Whatever you buy take it to a range or crown land and practise shooting a fair bit so that when the time comes you'll do right.
 
Step 1
Take beaurocratic courses
Step 2
Buy gun in 308, 270, 30-06 or 7.62x54r
Step 3
Buy licence/soft point ammo
Step 4
Shoot deer/moose
Step 5
Eat

SOFT point bullets btw 150 and 200gr depending on the round will drop whatever animal you hit in the boiler room. Whatever you buy take it to a range or crown land and practise shooting a fair bit so that when the time comes you'll do right.

Step 1
Read the thread

Step 2
Reply to the thread
 
Step 1
Take beaurocratic courses
Step 2
Buy gun in 308, 270, 30-06 or 7.62x54r
Step 3
Buy licence/soft point ammo
Step 4
Shoot deer/moose
Step 5
Eat

SOFT point bullets btw 150 and 200gr depending on the round will drop whatever animal you hit in the boiler room. Whatever you buy take it to a range or crown land and practise shooting a fair bit so that when the time comes you'll do right.

He already has a gun.....good enough for deer and moose.
 
I never pass up a good chance to thank a vet..thank you sir for your service to our country!!
I will say, 308 150-180gr...put it in the boiler room, you will fill the freezer everytime.
 
I realize that it is sacrilegious to say this on a gun web site but I'm going to say it anyway: The rifle you use is not that important as long as it shoots.

Many thousands if not millions of deer and thousands of moose have been taken with 30-30 Winchesters and surplus 303 Lee Enfields and other workhouse guns with off-the-shelf factory ammunition.

What you have to work on are hunting skills.
 
I realize that it is sacrilegious to say this on a gun web site but I'm going to say it anyway: The rifle you use is not that important as long as it shoots.

Many thousands if not millions of deer and thousands of moose have been taken with 30-30 Winchesters and surplus 303 Lee Enfields and other workhouse guns with off-the-shelf factory ammunition.

What you have to work on are hunting skills.

This is so true. Especially in this day and age when every advertiser wants to sell you their latest gadget or super duper death-ray magnum. There is no substitute for spending as much time as possible in the bush, observing wildlife.
BTW welcome to the wonderful world of hunting , Joe. You have gotten a lot of good advice already, but I think the second poster(Ganderite)
pretty much nailed it.
 
2 cents.


Nothing wrong with standard cup and core bullets when it comes to the 6.5x55, as they are virtually all designed to perform well within the same velocity window, except one issue - they are made of lead.

Shooting a deer or moose cleanly (heart / lungs without hitting major bones) will still result in some lead fragmentation, and subsequent ingestion on your part, and that of your wife and children of at least some lead. While ingesting some lead is not some horrific life-ending nightmare, lead is a neurotoxin and should be avoided at all costs by women planning on having children at some point in the future, as lead also contributes to birth defects. Lead also accumulates in the body over time, and is difficult to clear.

While I continue to hunt with lead, I am very careful when butchering regardless of the fact my wife and I are past the having babies stage. I have been transitioning most of my hunting rifles to lead less options, and will continue to so.

On the subject of mono metal bullets, such as the TTSX, standard advice is go light and fast - it is good advice, take it. Also, plan on complete pass-through on all but lengthwise shots, even on moose. In other words, be very aware of what is beyond your target (which everyone should be anyways).

Now, before somebody gets all “I done eats lotsa stuff shot with lead, and I ain’t stupider cause of it!”, that is your choice, and as long as people do so with full knowledge of what they are doing, I could care less. However, feeding sausage to spouses and children made from meat full of shrapnel is beyond reprehensible.

Happy hunting.
 
Welcome aboard! Very nice first thread, lots of good information to get started.

I'll be there first to ask the question: Are you really going to have only one hunting rifle? If you stick to only one, you'll be doing better than most of us here!

Enjoy the hunt! To me the hunt itself has become much more thrilling than the kill. Bagging a deer is a great feeling. Watching one casually walk away because you decided to let it grow some more makes for a completely different experience.

As for hunting bullets, I've had very good results with the Berger hunting VLDs.
 
As mentioned in the tittle, I am new to hunting but not to firearms. Served in our military,....

Another military veteran. :cool:

Regarding your questions, Google is your friend. Some hits have good information (but often debatable). Examples only -

1- I am reading a lot about today's hunting bullet technology and wanted to know what is everyone's opinion on "tipped vs round-nose" bullets for hunting deer and moose? https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2016/4/8/5-reasons-round-nose-bullets-are-still-cool/

2- There seems to be much talk about lead free bullets, should I hop on the lead free train right from the start? Is there an advantage in terms of performance to using lead free bullets? https://gunsmagazine.com/monolithic-bullets/

3- What bullet are you using for deer and which one for moose? (please name make, model and grain weight)
http://www.chuckhawks.com/recommended_hunting_bullets.htm

Completing a hunter training course is usually mandatory. An interesting excerpt from the course literature -

39603017392_52481a24c1_z.jpg


Have fun on your journey. :)
 
Step 1
Take beaurocratic courses
Step 2
Buy gun in 308, 270, 30-06 or 7.62x54r
Step 3
Buy licence/soft point ammo
Step 4
Shoot deer/moose
Step 5
Eat

SOFT point bullets btw 150 and 200gr depending on the round will drop whatever animal you hit in the boiler room. Whatever you buy take it to a range or crown land and practise shooting a fair bit so that when the time comes you'll do right.

Not so sure you read my original post...but thx for chiming in.

Joe, welcome aboard.
I use the Hornady Interbond 165gr, 308, very accurate & effective.
Hunt Safe, cheers

I own a 6.5x55 Tikka T3X Varmint.

I never pass up a good chance to thank a vet..thank you sir for your service to our country!!
I will say, 308 150-180gr...put it in the boiler room, you will fill the freezer everytime.

Thx for the kind words sir. Hoping to fill my freezer for sure. Been doing much reading/research and the boiler room will definitely be my target. I know the 308 is an excellent caliber but I'm a big fan of the 6.5x55 Swede by Tikka T3X.

I realize that it is sacrilegious to say this on a gun web site but I'm going to say it anyway: The rifle you use is not that important as long as it shoots.

Many thousands if not millions of deer and thousands of moose have been taken with 30-30 Winchesters and surplus 303 Lee Enfields and other workhouse guns with off-the-shelf factory ammunition.

What you have to work on are hunting skills.

Doing much reading and research on hunting skills. Very interesting reads. Cant wait!

This is so true. Especially in this day and age when every advertiser wants to sell you their latest gadget or super duper death-ray magnum. There is no substitute for spending as much time as possible in the bush, observing wildlife.
BTW welcome to the wonderful world of hunting , Joe. You have gotten a lot of good advice already, but I think the second poster(Ganderite)
pretty much nailed it.

Agreed

2 cents.


Nothing wrong with standard cup and core bullets when it comes to the 6.5x55, as they are virtually all designed to perform well within the same velocity window, except one issue - they are made of lead.

Shooting a deer or moose cleanly (heart / lungs without hitting major bones) will still result in some lead fragmentation, and subsequent ingestion on your part, and that of your wife and children of at least some lead. While ingesting some lead is not some horrific life-ending nightmare, lead is a neurotoxin and should be avoided at all costs by women planning on having children at some point in the future, as lead also contributes to birth defects. Lead also accumulates in the body over time, and is difficult to clear.

While I continue to hunt with lead, I am very careful when butchering regardless of the fact my wife and I are past the having babies stage. I have been transitioning most of my hunting rifles to lead less options, and will continue to so.

On the subject of mono metal bullets, such as the TTSX, standard advice is go light and fast - it is good advice, take it. Also, plan on complete pass-through on all but lengthwise shots, even on moose. In other words, be very aware of what is beyond your target (which everyone should be anyways).

Now, before somebody gets all “I done eats lotsa stuff shot with lead, and I ain’t stupider cause of it!”, that is your choice, and as long as people do so with full knowledge of what they are doing, I could care less. However, feeding sausage to spouses and children made from meat full of shrapnel is beyond reprehensible.

Happy hunting.

Lighter and faster for the monos is exactly what I have been reading...and seriously been thinking about them.

6.5 Swede is very overlooked.

It is ballistic twin to Creedmoor and 260 Rem.

I would load with Nosler Accunond 130gr and try H4350....or Reloader 19

I find the Swede capable of faster velocities than the 260 or the Creedmoor.

Welcome aboard! Very nice first thread, lots of good information to get started.

I'll be there first to ask the question: Are you really going to have only one hunting rifle? If you stick to only one, you'll be doing better than most of us here!

Enjoy the hunt! To me the hunt itself has become much more thrilling than the kill. Bagging a deer is a great feeling. Watching one casually walk away because you decided to let it grow some more makes for a completely different experience.

As for hunting bullets, I've had very good results with the Berger hunting VLDs.

Hehe. Don't know if I'll have only one rifle. I would like a magnum caliber eventually so, maybe one more !!!!!

Another military veteran. :cool:

Regarding your questions, Google is your friend. Some hits have good information (but often debatable). Examples only -

1- I am reading a lot about today's hunting bullet technology and wanted to know what is everyone's opinion on "tipped vs round-nose" bullets for hunting deer and moose? https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2016/4/8/5-reasons-round-nose-bullets-are-still-cool/

2- There seems to be much talk about lead free bullets, should I hop on the lead free train right from the start? Is there an advantage in terms of performance to using lead free bullets? https://gunsmagazine.com/monolithic-bullets/

3- What bullet are you using for deer and which one for moose? (please name make, model and grain weight)
http://www.chuckhawks.com/recommended_hunting_bullets.htm

Completing a hunter training course is usually mandatory. An interesting excerpt from the course literature -

39603017392_52481a24c1_z.jpg


Have fun on your journey. :)

Thx for the links, will be reading that tonight. You also a vet ?
 
Hunting is about 90% location. Get that right and the rest will fall into place. Get it wrong and the rest doesn't matter much.

If you didn't know a thing about bullets except to use Nosler Ballistictips for deer sized game
and Partitions or Accubonds for elk and moose you'd still get by fine. If you want one for everything, go with Accubonds or Partition. That'll free up your mind for something important like location.
 
As mentioned in the tittle, I am new to hunting but not to firearms. Served in our military, with Tours overseas and now compete in precision shooting so marksmanship is not an issue (not saying I'm the best shooter, simply saying I got my marksmanship basics under control and with consistency). I've been doing much reading, talking and trying to educate myself as best I can before I actually go out and hunt. I plan on hunting deer and moose for the meat to put on my family's diner table. I've recently had the opportunity to taste wild meat and absolutely love it. My hunting will be done all within 200m (218 yards) and in an open area, no thick brush. I will be doing my own handloads for hunting as I already have all the tools, gear and knowledge for it.

1- I am reading a lot about today's hunting bullet technology and wanted to know what is everyone's opinion on "tipped vs round-nose" bullets for hunting deer and moose?
2- There seems to be much talk about lead free bullets, should I hop on the lead free train right from the start? Is there an advantage in terms of performance to using lead free bullets?
3- What bullet are you using for deer and which one for moose? (please name make, model and grain weight)

Thank you for

My hunting rifle is a Tikka T3X Varmint in 6.5x55 Swede, 1:8 twist, 23.75'' barrel.


Do you use this rifle for your precision shooting? If so, then I think you’ve probably already done most of the leg work, and just need to find the hunting bullet with the BC and weight that most closely imitates what you’ve already found to be most accurate.

What are your pet loads currently?
 
Hunting is about 90% location. Get that right and the rest will fall into place. Get it wrong and the rest doesn't matter much.

If you didn't know a thing about bullets except to use Nosler Ballistictips for deer sized game
and Partitions or Accubonds for elk and moose you'd still get by fine. If you want one for everything, go with Accubonds or Partition. That'll free up your mind for something important like location.

I am doing a lot of reading and asking tons of questions about bullet selection and Nosler often comes at the top of conversations along with Barnes TTSX.

Do you use this rifle for your precision shooting? If so, then I think you’ve probably already done most of the leg work, and just need to find the hunting bullet with the BC and weight that most closely imitates what you’ve already found to be most accurate.

What are your pet loads currently?

Yes, I do use it for competitive shooting. My 6.5x55 Swede Tikka T3X Varmint is a real tac driver with Norma Golden Target 130 gr bullets, Nosler brass, CCI 200 primers and 46.9 gr of H4350 at 2930 fps at the muzzle.
 
I am doing a lot of reading and asking tons of questions about bullet selection and Nosler often comes at the top of conversations along with Barnes TTSX.

The Ballistic tips/Accubonds and the assorted monos are very different bullets, with very different results. You could swing over to another extreme and find the frangibles of which the Bergers are the current poster child just as the Barnes are the poster child of the mono crowd. Although it would be difficult to find two more opposite bullets than the Berger and the Barnes they both have enthusiastic fans. The fast track to happiness is finding a place in the middle.
 
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