Roll Pins

SustainingGopher

SustainingGopher

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So I finally joined the AR club today. Decided I would build one instead of purchasing a complete rifle. I bought A Colt Canada stripped lower from S&J and a lower parts kit (minus trigger group and pistol grip) from TNA (both were great to deal with BTW) . I'm having a rough time getting the roll pins into the trigger guard and the bolt release, they seem to be too big. I don't want to force anything in fear of damaging the lower, and I have read that some Colt receivers have different size holes and thus need different roll pins. Anybody experience the same thing? Or should I just mash them in? Obviously this is a learning experience for me and any help would be appreciated. Thanks CGN.
 
The different size holes you are referring to are most likely the trigger pin holes, which have been the standard milspec size for sometime now. The roll pins will be very tight but using some oil and supporting the ears on the lower receiver will ensure that no damage occurs. I have heard that using a pair of pliers to squeeze the ends of the roll pins can help get them started and make it easier but I have never tried it myself.
 
The roll pins take a little bit of effort but not a whole lot to get 'em going. You should use roll pin punches to avoid damaging the pins or worse, slipping off the pin and marring the finish on the receiver.

With the trigger roll pin, make sure you are supporting the opposite side of the receiver on the trigger area. I've seen some folks break the opposing side of the trigger guard ear.

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When I had to replace the dual-concentric roll pins on my Sig P226 slide I found that starting the roll pin by clamping the slide and pin in a vice such that tightening the vice drove the pin in worked really well. I don't how adaptable that is to your situation, maybe some sort of screw clamp could be used?

Slow and careful pressure with the vice was much less stressful than using a hammer. I did use a hammer and roll pin punch to finish the job.
 
You will need to get a set of roll pin punches and starter punch. Makes this process much easier.

Sometimes I file a tiny bit of the pin to make it slightly tapered. Also little lube doesn't hurt either.
 
Cranberry said:
When I had to replace the dual-concentric roll pins on my Sig P226 slide I found that starting the roll pin by clamping the slide and pin in a vice such that tightening the vice drove the pin in worked really well. I don't how adaptable that is to your situation, maybe some sort of screw clamp could be used?

Slow and careful pressure with the vice was much less stressful than using a hammer. I did use a hammer and roll pin punch to finish the job.
Click to expand...

I dont know why Sig uses such ####ty roll pins like that. I've seen soo many break.
 
This is the method I use only on a much smaller scale. I use needle nose vice grips. Note the use of a socket as an anvil for either inserting or removing a roll pin. As stated, a set of roll pin punches helps prevent damage to the pin. I bought mine from Amazon.ca.
 
Trinimon said:
Huh, news to me. Those coiled spring pins are supposed to be stronger than your regular roll pin.
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I don't know about stronger, but I just installed a coiled roll pin today in a gas block/gas tune, and it went in super easy...I find the coiled ones go in way easier then the thick standard ones...

A punch with a center guide is a must, a starter punch is great to get them started also
 
I found the s&j roll pins to be a bear to install. I dinged up a cheap aero lower when i got frustrated with their roll pins, not to mention the out of spec trigger pins and ambi safety.... TNA is a great company to deal with btw.

I use a set of pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the roll pin end you are going to drive in. Also cover the working side of the lower with electrical tape to protect it.

If you don't have roll pin punches stop what you're doing and go get some befor you mess up your new lower. I got mine from brownells but princess auto carries them too. The starting punch is nice not not a necessity.

I also have a small block of wood cut to support under the trigger guard when driving that roll pin home. Just be careful that pin and the bolt catch pin are similar but the bolt catch pin is smaller. Drive the bolt catch pin in until its perfectly flush with the ear then install your bolt catch/spring and plunger and tape it in place or use a small Allen key as a slave pin to keep yourself sane.

Do all this on a uncluttered clean hard stable work surface. Inevitably a spring or detent will go flying at some point.

Welcome to the AR club. Its an addicting habit and at some point you will find a single spare part and have to build a new lower because of that lol
 
TheM4chef said:
I found the s&j roll pins to be a bear to install. I dinged up a cheap aero lower when i got frustrated with their roll pins, not to mention the out of spec trigger pins and ambi safety.... TNA is a great company to deal with btw.

I use a set of pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the roll pin end you are going to drive in. Also cover the working side of the lower with electrical tape to protect it.

If you don't have roll pin punches stop what you're doing and go get some befor you mess up your new lower. I got mine from brownells but princess auto carries them too. The starting punch is nice not not a necessity.

I also have a small block of wood cut to support under the trigger guard when driving that roll pin home. Just be careful that pin and the bolt catch pin are similar but the bolt catch pin is smaller. Drive the bolt catch pin in until its perfectly flush with the ear then install your bolt catch/spring and plunger and tape it in place or use a small Allen key as a slave pin to keep yourself sane.

Do all this on a uncluttered clean hard stable work surface. Inevitably a spring or detent will go flying at some point.

Welcome to the AR club. Its an addicting habit and at some point you will find a single spare part and have to build a new lower because of that lol
Click to expand...

M4Chef and I both had the same experience with s&j's LPK.

In addition to roll pin punches I found pin vises really handy, I also picked up a pair of Knippex pliers wrench they're super handy to have around the house not just for assembling lowers. The best part I think about the knipex pliers wrench is that it almost works like a press so when you're installing the roll pin for the trigger guard it actually supports the lower ear of the trigger guard and you don't have to worry about it break off if you apply too much force with a roll pin and a hammer. These also work great for installing the bolt catch pin. Use the pin vise to get the roll pin started and then finish it off with the knippex. I got the 7" version but i think I should have got the 10" version.

Also packing tape is your friend, put a couple of layers on the lower around the areas you're working on it will help prevent scratches especially around the bolt release and the mag release.
 
You can try slightly dressing one end of the roll pin against a file or sand paper to help get it started - along with a small drop of oil that worked for me.
 
YouTube is your friend. There are plenty of how-to videos by professional gunsmiths and expert AR builders with great tips on handling pins, assembling parts and using tools, etc. Do your research _first_ before you start in on your build.
 
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