Powder Coat Source?

I'm liking the idea of clear powder coat. If nothing else little missed spots would be less obvious.

Next batch I'll get a pic of it before baking... but it goes on white, so you can still see if coverage is even and full. Goes clear as it melts in the oven.
 
Clear is probably the best. The less addatives to affect the flow the better.

7-after-shaking.png
 
Clear is probably the best. The less addatives to affect the flow the better.

7-after-shaking.png


I use shake and bake.
All of the colours I have used seem to stick equally well so long as the humidity is low.
I have found that the initial coat is thickest when the relative humidity is at it's lowest and during periods of high humidity the initial coat is not as thick
I have also found that warm bullets will build up a better coat than bullets that are at -15C
I get the best coating results from a 10 minute shake (homemade vibrating brass cleaner) when the humidity in my house is low enough so that I build up static electricity while walking across carpet.

I use lee 113 grain unsized (no gas check installed) powder coat bullets in my 30-30 and 30/06 Hammond Game Getters

http://www3.telus.net/gamegetter/index.html
The Inventor, Brian Hammond is a great friend of mine and this is a great product.
 
Question ...........should a person avoid using TGIC powder and go with non-TGIC powder for health risk reasons? Is the Emerald Coatings Tool Blue available in non-TGIC.After the coated bullets are cured should they be handled with bare hands?
 
Question ...........should a person avoid using TGIC powder and go with non-TGIC powder for health risk reasons? Is the Emerald Coatings Tool Blue available in non-TGIC.After the coated bullets are cured should they be handled with bare hands?

I try to only use TGIC when i can. I say try, because emerald has changed its mind on tgic/tgic free powders a number of times. Tool blue i am told is tgic free.

After bullets cure and cool you can use bare hands, even with tgic its the same once its cured.
 
I try to only use TGIC when i can. I say try, because emerald has changed its mind on tgic/tgic free powders a number of times. Tool blue i am told is tgic free.

After bullets cure and cool you can use bare hands, even with tgic its the same once its cured.

I have enclosed my casting/baking area. For baking I cover up the front. System is exhausted outside

wk0Nhok.jpg
 
Question ...........should a person avoid using TGIC powder and go with non-TGIC powder for health risk reasons? Is the Emerald Coatings Tool Blue available in non-TGIC.After the coated bullets are cured should they be handled with bare hands?

I don't stress about it with some minimal precautions taken. The real risk is with guys that spend all day in a booth immersed in clouds of the stuff. You need to protect yourself from inhaling, ingesting or skin contact. With shake & bake that's not really hard; gloves and a face mask. I'm gonna say you could probably get away without It, there's not really any dust anyway, but why take the risk.
For that matter I don't really want to be inhaling non TGIC powder either.

No issue with any coating after it's been cured, these are meant to be used as surface paints after all.
 
Yes but there are different kinds and not all powders work with shake and bake. I have ordered from emerald before also found out the hard way that the internet was right that not all powders work

Gotcha. It's glass clear PC1069 that I've had excellent results with.

I mentioned it a few posts back but I'm starting to think that the purported difference in colours is more down to the application method, conditions and perhaps powder lot. I can say that all of the powders I've tried have "worked" in that they adhere dry and adhere after baking. It's just that some coat better with less excess, provide a more uniform thickness, or provide a thinner coat, etc. In some cases you may actually want a thicker coat. Glass clear has been the best in that regard for me. But even then technique makes a difference; I use a minute amount of powder with airsoft BBs as an application media just like ceramic BBs for dry neck lube. Using just raw powder or too much powder gave sub optimal results. Like, there's basically no powder noticeable in the tub for best results. It's hard to quantify but little to no visible powder after it's put in and the media shaken to distribute it works the best for me. You can always add more if you feel the coating isn't sufficient. I also find the BBs help to knock off the excess as well.
 
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Gotcha. It's glass clear PC1069 that I've had excellent results with.

I mentioned it a few posts back but I'm starting to think that the purported difference in colours is more down to the application method, conditions and perhaps powder lot. I can say that all of the powders I've tried have "worked" in that they adhere dry and adhere after baking. It's just that some coat better with less excess, provide a more uniform thickness, or provide a thinner coat, etc. In some cases you may actually want a thicker coat. Glass clear has been the best in that regard for me. But even then technique makes a difference; I use a minute amount of powder with airsoft BBs as an application media just like ceramic BBs for dry neck lube. Using just raw powder or too much powder gave sub optimal results. Like, there's basically no powder noticeable in the tub for best results. It's hard to quantify but little to no visible powder after it's put in and the media shaken to distribute it works the best for me. You can always add more if you feel the coating isn't sufficient. I also find the BBs help to knock off the excess as well.

I know all about the process. I have coated about 70-80 pounds of bullets. I currently have 2 powders that I am sure would work good with a gun but won't coat anything shaking the container.
 
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