1917 Enfield accuracy and bedding points?

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fonestar

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I have a 1917 Enfield by Eddystone mfg 101 years ago. It's my only rifle in 30-06 and I really like it... a real war horse. But all the ammo I have tried in it so far... it's a "minute of pie plate" rifle at 100 yards. Bore is decent but somewhat dark. I'm thinking this rifle should be able to do better than that...

I have a 98K Mauser that suffered some stock shrinkage over the years, it was shooting about the same as my P1917... once I put some leather strap bedding under the bayo lug (giving it some upward pressure on the barrel) the groups tightened right up.

I'm thinking maybe it's the same story for this rifle? Does anyone have any info on where the pressure points should be on the Enfield 1917?

Thanks!!
 
Guard screws tight, recoil lug seated against the lug recess in the stock, 5-7 lbs pressure to lift barrel out of contact with forend tip, barrel not in contact with lower surface of upper band, and barrel clear of stock except at forend tip and chamber area. There should also be a bit of clearance between the upper action tang and the corresponding surface of the stock. Also check the condition of the barrel crown looking for gouges and uneven wear.
 
purple said:
Guard screws tight, recoil lug seated against the lug recess in the stock, 5-7 lbs pressure to lift barrel out of contact with forend tip, barrel not in contact with lower surface of upper band, and barrel clear of stock except at forend tip and chamber area. There should also be a bit of clearance between the upper action tang and the corresponding surface of the stock. Also check the condition of the barrel crown looking for gouges and uneven wear.
Click to expand...

Sure you're not describing the bedding of a Lee Enfield No4 there, purple? This fellow has an Enfield M1917...
 
Few things that get mine shooting good...
Use the flip up peep, bit smaller then battle sight.
Fireform and neck size brass, chambers are big.
Front action screw tight as you can get it, rear just snug but not tight as front.
I've used Varget, H4895, 4064, and Hornady 150gr & 168gr bthp, mag primers and loaded to 2750-2700fps.
 
I have bedded mine. Made a huge difference. I believe I just did the recoil lug area and around the rear tang. I didn't worry much about barrel pressure. Figured I could shim if needed.

Went from being a very inconsistent shooter to a respectable 4moa at 100m. For me anyways.

I found a procedure on this forum from a while back, unfortunately I don't have the link anymore. Try search function and may find it.
 
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One other thing you might want to do is check your stock for cracks in the recoil lug area or compression. I had one of those last fall that was about as accurate as you describe. The muzzle had been beveled by improper cleaning for about a cm into the bore. Also, I have had a few with .310 diameter bores.

Make sure ALL of the stock screw spacers are present as well.

Other than that, follow purple's instructions. Do it right though. If you do a hack job that's the kind of accuracy you can expect.

One thing about these rifles is that when sporterized they shoot best with a fully floated barrel when the receiver is glass bedded in the stock.

Some of those old girls have WARPED stocks on them. That can be a real chore to fix. In some occasions removal of channel wood may be necessary.


If you're getting shotgun type groups, that's pretty indicative of receiver bedding problems. Is all of the storage grease removed???
 
Well - its either the bore/crown or the bedding. When I encounter a situation like this, I usually switch stocks first. This allows me to prove or disprove the bedding limitations.
 
Excessive muzzle wear is detrimental to accuracy and you see this quite often in MILSURPs, esp those that are cleaned from the muzzle end.

A quick check for muzzle wear in a .30 cal barrel can be done by using a loaded .30-06 ctg with a spitzer bullet. Insert the bullet into the muzzle and see where it comes to rest against the muzzle. If the bullet goes in far enough to rest on the cannelure or the case mouth, you are shooting a .303. There should be measurable standoff between the bullet cannelure and the muzzle.

There are exceptions to every rule. I have a M1903 which came with a badly worn original barrel and proper stock bedding . It gauged .307 on the GI throat gauge and .303 on the muzzle wear gauge, basically a reject barrel. Yet it still shot 3 inch groups with handloads @ 100 yds.:eek: I re-barreled it with a NOS GI barrel and shrank the groups considerably.
 
fonestar said:
I have a 1917 Enfield by Eddystone mfg 101 years ago. It's my only rifle in 30-06 and I really like it... a real war horse. But all the ammo I have tried in it so far... it's a "minute of pie plate" rifle at 100 yards. Bore is decent but somewhat dark. I'm thinking this rifle should be able to do better than that...

I have a 98K Mauser that suffered some stock shrinkage over the years, it was shooting about the same as my P1917... once I put some leather strap bedding under the bayo lug (giving it some upward pressure on the barrel) the groups tightened right up.

I'm thinking maybe it's the same story for this rifle? Does anyone have any info on where the pressure points should be on the Enfield 1917?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

On the plus side, if it doesn't work out, you can always find aftermarket stocks and new-manufactured barrels for the M1917. Can be costly, but it depends on how much you like shooting it.

Also, slug the bore and find out what you're working with.
 
bearhunter said:
One other thing you might want to do is check your stock for cracks in the recoil lug area or compression. I had one of those last fall that was about as accurate as you describe. The muzzle had been beveled by improper cleaning for about a cm into the bore. Also, I have had a few with .310 diameter bores.

Make sure ALL of the stock screw spacers are present as well.

Other than that, follow purple's instructions. Do it right though. If you do a hack job that's the kind of accuracy you can expect.

One thing about these rifles is that when sporterized they shoot best with a fully floated barrel when the receiver is glass bedded in the stock.

Some of those old girls have WARPED stocks on them. That can be a real chore to fix. In some occasions removal of channel wood may be necessary.


If you're getting shotgun type groups, that's pretty indicative of receiver bedding problems. Is all of the storage grease removed???
Click to expand...

There was no grease on this rifle and it's always been cleaned well and this one has not been sporterized. Crown might be slightly "eggshelled". Will do the bullet test tonight and see if the wood channel is touching the barrel.
 
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