Lee factory crimp die

Dazbog

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If I’m getting fine brass shavings on the press base from when I crimp my 9mm. am I applying too much crimp or is that normal? I’m turned in 1/2 turn for a light crimp as per the instructions. It doesn’t look excessive but want to ask.
 
If I’m getting fine brass shavings on the press base from when I crimp my 9mm. am I applying too much crimp or is that normal? I’m turned in 1/2 turn for a light crimp as per the instructions. It doesn’t look excessive but want to ask.

I used to get the same thing but after much experimentation I don't crimp my 9mm at all. The flaring/charging die is adjusted for just enough to get the bullet started. Seating die does the rest. I still run everything through the crimp die but it is backed off to zero. I'm also loading to max with 115gr bullets so your results might be different.
 
I just did a run of 9mm revolver loads, really need to crimp to keep the last 2 rounds from creeping out. And when I cleaned the die, whooo... loaded up with brass shavings. Q-tip, air gun, and brake clean with a final wipe of paper towel and all the dies were clean.
 
I get the same fine brass shavings when I reload the 9mm, very small amount though. Next time Im reloading I will try to see whats causing it.
 
Polish the crimp ring, it is rough as you can see below. If you use a Lyman type "M" expander it does not bell the case mouth as much and you will have less shavings.

The rough crimp ring and belling the case mouth presents more of the edge of the belled case mouth. The less the mouth is belled the less shavings you will have

5VYn6bp.jpg


khT8EaK.jpg


No taper crimp, case mouth still slightly belled.

pRVen2j.jpg


Light taper crimp should be .001 to .002 smaller than case diameter.

MfcwIQB.jpg


And remember the Lee factory crimp die with the carbide ring in the base is a cheat for people who do not trim their brass. And any bulge from a longer case is sized smaller by the carbide ring.

The above message was brought to you by the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to 9mm Brass. Don't let your crimping die bite the brass you feed it. :evil:
 
coincidently, I crimp the hell out of my 375 winc loads............... I don't bell or anything , just slip a cast in an seat.. then crimp OTT I guess... will I find the brass will crack around the crimp eventually? an do I just need to find a happy medium?
wincheter 94 lever gun, spring tension seems ok to heavy toward end... scared of losing a proje in the case then firing.
WL
 
Polish the crimp ring, it is rough as you can see below. If you use a Lyman type "M" expander it does not bell the case mouth as much and you will have less shavings.

The rough crimp ring and belling the case mouth presents more of the edge of the belled case mouth. The less the mouth is belled the less shavings you will have

5VYn6bp.jpg


khT8EaK.jpg


No taper crimp, case mouth still slightly belled.

pRVen2j.jpg


Light taper crimp should be .001 to .002 smaller than case diameter.

MfcwIQB.jpg


And remember the Lee factory crimp die with the carbide ring in the base is a cheat for people who do not trim their brass. And any bulge from a longer case is sized smaller by the carbide ring.

The above message was brought to you by the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to 9mm Brass. Don't let your crimping die bite the brass you feed it. :evil:
Excellent details as usual ED..
 
Your crimp measurement at the case mouth after crimping (de-belling) should be approximately 0.377 - 0.379. Sometimes you'll get more brass shavings when using new or once fired brass.
 
Below is a Lyman type "M" expander for a .223/5.56 and you can see the larger .226 step in the expander. And with brass spring back this area of the case mouth is only .001 larger than bullet diameter. The case mouth is not bell shaped and it does not work the brass as much as other expanders. Meaning far less cracked necks over time.

Also notice with a cast bullet you would have .004 neck tension, and a jacketed bullet would have .003 neck tension/bullet grip.

ohIUcpd.png


Below a exaggerated example of a pistol type "M" expander, and I have never gone beyond the middle B illustration and never needed to go to step C.

Bottom line, the type "M" expander needs less crimping to bring the case mouth back to bullet diameter. And will produce far less brass shavings when crimping.

udv9J6k.jpg
 
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What I like best about the Lyman type "M" expander is the bullet starts "straight" into the case mouth. Meaning no tilted bullets during seating and more concentric cases.
 
What I like best about the Lyman type "M" expander is the bullet starts "straight" into the case mouth. Meaning no tilted bullets during seating and more concentric cases.

What I don't like about the Lyman M die in a progressive is that it takes up a station. I use the Mr. Bullet Feeder powder funnel in my 650, all the benefits of a Lyman M die without losing a station.
 
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