BCL 102 through the paces

So let me understand this straight. You think the chamber is too tight because it works well when its cold?

Works better when its a cold barrel, but still failures.
Works better wutg the aero bolt with normal firing pin than with the bcl bolt with spring firing pin, but still failures.
 
Throw the stock trigger in to eliminate that. I bet that’s where’re your light primer strikes are coming from. I had some cycling issues and narrowed it down to magazines. The follower was binding.
 
Heat in chamber will expand size. Also increase in pressures of rounds if rounds are warmed.

Have you done the basic check that it locks back on a single round with mag? Mine passed that test. I was getting rounds not kicking themselves out of loading port, some backwards, some stovepiped, some trying to jam in another round with the spent brass. It was cycling too hard and ejection was overwhelmed. SA Adjustable gas block to limit its pressures and its been flawlessly working since. Getting to the 800-900 round mark now.

Everything your describing to me just sounds like cycling issues (with the possibility of a light striking trigger group, but that could also just be how its slamming about, get that issue fixed first).
Which are solved with an adjustable gas block or hand loaded ammunition tailored for rifle.

I highly doubt you need a new barrel. But its your money.
 
Heat in chamber will expand size. Also increase in pressures of rounds if rounds are warmed.

Have you done the basic check that it locks back on a single round with mag? Mine passed that test. I was getting rounds not kicking themselves out of loading port, some backwards, some stovepiped, some trying to jam in another round with the spent brass. It was cycling too hard and ejection was overwhelmed. SA Adjustable gas block to limit its pressures and its been flawlessly working since. Getting to the 800-900 round mark now.

Everything your describing to me just sounds like cycling issues (with the possibility of a light striking trigger group, but that could also just be how its slamming about, get that issue fixed first).
Which are solved with an adjustable gas block or hand loaded ammunition tailored for rifle.

I highly doubt you need a new barrel. But its your money.

Yes i did tbe gas system check with the one round in the mag, and yes when it would fire it would lock back, sonetines though light priner strike
 
Have you cleaned the firing pin channel in the bolts? Also, is the firing pin protrusion the same? Is the bolt slightly out of battery (in my ar15 experience this is visually obvious usually - you can see the carrier is not quite far enough forward) when the issue occurs?

Are you running it wet/ well lubricated?

Ben
 
Have you cleaned the firing pin channel in the bolts? Also, is the firing pin protrusion the same? Is the bolt slightly out of battery (in my ar15 experience this is visually obvious usually - you can see the carrier is not quite far enough forward) when the issue occurs?

Are you running it wet/ well lubricated?

Ben

I does look somewhat a tiny bit out battery each time that happens.
Honestly it almost feels like the spring isnt strong enough to push the bcg into battery.
I'll get a jp silent captured spring system too then
 
both bolts have the issue, the bcl bolt has more of the issues.
yes original buffer and spring and original bolt carrier

The buffer spring is apparently a bit shorter than other ones such as the LMT while using the longer AR10 buffer tube. Beltfed commented that compared to the lmt it seemed under sprung.

First suggestion:
Take it apart and clean all internal parts. Then Soak it in G96 metal conditioner spray. Let it soak overnight. Spray some more. Then the next day use good gun oil (No Rem oil) or use 0W40 full synthetic on all the high wear points.

If this is still an issue then get an AR10 buffer carbine spring or adjustable gas block. I would go with the spring and or buffer change over adjustable gas block since it’s ejecting at 3.

Third option if you don’t want to mess around with new parts and proper lubing didn’t work then send it in under warranty.
 
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Put it back to its original configuration, without the aftermarket trigger and bolt you installed. If it still does it, contact BCL about warranty. Saying it’s a lemon isn’t really fair without knowing if it works fine without the parts you swapped.

Ryan
 
So you put aftermarket parts in it and complain it doesn’t work? Hard to say if it’s BCL’s fault if you aren’t even using their parts.

If you are having light primer strikes, you should get out the firing pin and hammer spring. Maybe a heavier hammer spring is all you need.
 
So you put aftermarket parts in it and complain it doesn’t work? Hard to say if it’s BCL’s fault if you aren’t even using their parts.

If you are having light primer strikes, you should get out the firing pin and hammer spring. Maybe a heavier hammer spring is all you need.

the only after market part affecting this is the trigger. Its a wilson combat.

otherwise everything else is the same result.
 
Put it back to its original configuration, without the aftermarket trigger and bolt you installed. If it still does it, contact BCL about warranty. Saying it’s a lemon isn’t really fair without knowing if it works fine without the parts you swapped.

Ryan

i ran it with the BCL bolt back and forth, results were worse with the bcl bolt than the aeroprecision bolt. I was getting light primer strikes ever second round with the bcl bolt and its spring firing pin.
 
You said you replaced the trigger. Put the original trigger back in and check if it is still doing it. If it is, contact BCL about having it fixed under warranty.

i ran it with the BCL bolt back and forth, results were worse with the bcl bolt than the aeroprecision bolt. I was getting light primer strikes ever second round with the bcl bolt and its spring firing pin.
 
This is the problem that comes when people buy a rifle that doesn't work then try to buy parts to make it work rather than sending a faulty rifle back for warranty replacement.
If you start off with something that's out of spec no amount of aftermarket goodies will do much more than hide a problem for a while.
All 102 builds should start with a properly built and fully functional rifle if you want to end up with a quality rifle worthy of all the money being spent on upgrades.

I would swap it back to completely stock then keep sending it in for warranty until you get it back working correctly. NEA/BCL has a good warranty, use it.
I would try to arrange with them that you will pay for the first return shipping but if you get it back and it still doesn't work they should be responsible for future shipping costs.
 
You may want to try a couple of things:

1. Replace the trigger to OEM spec and retest.
2. Remove the handguard and have a look at the gas block to ensure it is seated correctly.
 
This is the problem that comes when people buy a rifle that doesn't work then try to buy parts to make it work rather than sending a faulty rifle back for warranty replacement.
If you start off with something that's out of spec no amount of aftermarket goodies will do much more than hide a problem for a while.
All 102 builds should start with a properly built and fully functional rifle if you want to end up with a quality rifle worthy of all the money being spent on upgrades.

I would swap it back to completely stock then keep sending it in for warranty until you get it back working correctly. NEA/BCL has a good warranty, use it.
I would try to arrange with them that you will pay for the first return shipping but if you get it back and it still doesn't work they should be responsible for future shipping costs.

Shouldn't he find out if the rifle works normally with the stock trigger? The BCL 102 does use a firing pin with a spring as it's an AR10. Is this a faulty rifle, or use of a part that just doesn't work with this rifle?
 
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