School the FNG

G

GrizzlyLC

Member
Rating - 100%
3   0   0
Location
Ontario
Good day ladies and gents,

I have been interested in reloading since I purchased my .308 RPR so I have started putting together my set up. I'm looking for more of the precision side of reloading so I have already picked up a press starter kit (listed below) but I would like your thoughts, inputs, and suggestions for the rest on the necessary equipment. I'm of the "buy once cry once" philosophy but I would like to keep it reasonably where possible

Currently have
- Hornady LNL cast iron single stage
https://x-reload.com/hornady-press-iron-press-kit-w-auto-prime.html
- Lyman brass prep tool kit (without bullet puller)
https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/lyman/case-prep-tools/case-prep-care-kits/ultimate-case-prep-kit.html

Currently need
-Frankford Arsenal SS wet tumbler
-Frankford Arsenal Magnet
-Frankford Arsenal Media Seperator
-Hornady Case trimmer
-Wilson Case gauge (.308)
-Hornady Bench Rest powder measure assembly
-Hornady Headspace gauge kit
-Hornady OAL gauge w/ modified case
-Hornady stuck case remover
-RCBS powder trickler 2
-Kenetic bullet puller (probably FA)
-Lee Universal Decapping Die
-.308 Rifle die (need some input on this)
- Chronograph(Magnetospeed or Older photovoltaic style)
-Ammo Components

This is just a list I've come up with through the research I've done. I would love some knowledge from the experienced crowd, especially things you wish someone told you when you first started out.

Couple more questions;

1. For a bench, I'm interested in doing a T-slot bench, so I can slide the press and other tools on and off. different bench ideas are welcome, I would like to keep it to 4' long if possible but not a deal breaker if not.
e.g. http://ultimatereloader.com/2011/03/27/the-new-reloading-bench-system-at-ultimate-reloader/

2. Press maintenance?? this is the one of the things I wasn't able to really narrow down. I was thinking of using some moly grease, but I've heard of people using all kinds of different oils or even running them dry. I do need some input on this

Thanks for reading this long A$$ post. I look forward to reading your suggestions and learning a thing or two

Cheers
 
I don't see a Vernier on your list. I wouldn't bother with a universal decapping die, your resizing die will take care of the decapping operation. If you use a decapping die it is just one more operation. I don't use a trickler, I throw the charged on an RCBS chargemaster then re-weigh on an Acculab scale and pinch the extra few kernals in with my fingers. I have been reloading for about 25 years and never needed a stuck case remover. A Chronograph is nice to have, but for me accuracy trumps speed.

Buy Redding bushing dies and use Lapua brass.
 
Don't forget a couple of reloading manuals. The one that corresponds to the manufacturer of the bullets you mostly use and then a generic one.
 
I will offer a couple of points;

- The Forster case trimmer is what I use and is an excellent piece of kit. Very well made and accuracy of adjustment is exceptional. You can get the 3 in 1 cutter head to trim, de-burr and chamfer all in one operation.
- Consider a Dillon case gauge as they will not rust like the Wilson.
- I use a Dandy Omega trickler and it is a thing of beauty! Two speeds and very adjustable; able to drop single kernels of powder.
- Have a look at the Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating Die
- As mentioned, you MUST have a Vernier Caliper
- For the Chronograph, consider LabRadar as well.
- Reloading manuals are a must
- If you think your bench will be big enough at 4', then go 6'
 
Press maintenance.

Get a tube of high-quality grease and a small paint brush. Do not use oil as it will potentially migrate to places you do not necessarily want it.

Paint it on the ram, cycle it a few times, wipe off any excess that has collected around where the frame mates with the ram.

Pop out any pivot pins and clean them, apply fresh grease. Reinstall.

That should be good for about 5,000 + cycles.

My machines get grease every 8 hours of operation, but that ranges between 20,000 and 40,000 cycles in the time frame. So 5,000 is fairly conservative
 
Great info so far, thank you very much.

as for the calipers I believe the kit I bought comes with a set of digital ones, I know their no Mitutoyo's but are the ones from Hornady good to go??

The kit comes with Hornady edition 9, should I fork out another $50ish for the new edition?? I am looking at the other manuals for bullets I'm thinking of running

good to know about the case gauge, know where I can source a Dillon case gauge??

I was looking at the Forster case trimmer. I like being able to do 3 operations at once, how long is the cutter life on those?

I have looked at LabRadar but it seems a bit steep, I think the club near me has one to sign out so I may look into that.

What kind of high quality grease?? General purpose?? I was thinking of Molybdenum Disulfide grease, thoughts?


Again thank you so much for taking the time to answer my newbie questions. your wisdom is greatly appreciated

Cheers
 
I use Lucas Red "N" Tacky. It is "red lithium" it works well for me. I buy it by the 30 tubes per case format. That lasts me 10 months to a year. I like it specifically for the color as it is easy for me to see when I have flushed out the old grease and have new grease cleanly applied. Once the new shop is built I will probably install a central pneumatic greasing system with a take-off reel. I would just buy a 120-pound drum of it at that point.

I have looked at using their heavy duty mining grease of the assembly of parts without grease fittings as it is higher grade "longer lasting". I just haven't found anywhere that stocks it as it is apparently too expensive for most places to stock, as no one seems interested in buying it locally. Hence I would have to order a case of it for around $500 to try it.

All of this being said. I operate a production environment. We move close to half a million pieces of brass per month. My needs are different than most peoples, as downtime costs me hundreds of dollars per hour. Thusly spending $1,000 a year on grease is the cost of doing business.
 
Last edited:
Firearms Outlet Canada is where I get my Dillon case gauges.

The cutter life on the Forster 3 in 1 is supposed to be quite good as it is a carbide cutter. I honestly can't say when they wear out because mine has not. In reality, a replacement is not that much to buy, so when the day comes, I'll happily fork out the cash to do so.
 
I’d avoid the magnetospeed just for the fact that something hanging off the end of your barrel is going to mess with your barrel dynamics and is likely not conducive to finding accurate loads.
 
If you're not in a hurry, you can pick up most of what you'll need used on the EE. My gear is a mixture of new, used, and home made.
The Hornady caliper should be ok, RCBS, Dillon, Lyman, Hornady et al are all rebranded "Brand X" anyway. None of those folks make calipers. You mentioned Mitutoyo, which tells me you've either used one or have an appreciation of fine tools.
I use an older dial Mitutoyo caliper which works fine, however the ability to zero a digital at any position you like saves some math on occasion. The better Mitutoyo calipers are about $150 on Amazon for the 6" model, which is a good value. 4" will work but it's awkward to hold for measuring cases, etc.
I use a Competition Electronics chronograph, again about $150 on Amazon. Be advised, if your shot passes close to the uprights it won't register on the sensors. I consider it an early warning that I'm not where I should be.. lol. Other than that I've never had a problem with it.
I also am not a fan of the Magnetospeed that attaches on the barrel. If all you're looking for is speed indication it's fine, but attaching it to your barrel precludes any ability to group test at the same time. While they're undoubtedly very good, I didn't want to tie up the asking price for a Labradar.
The Chrony models I've asked about are finicky about light conditions from what their owners have said. I don't feel like wasting money every time I pull the trigger because the chronograph doesn't read every shot reliably.
I have a Forster collet bullet puller that loads in the press like a die. About $40 from Hirsch Precision, including the collet. It works very well with no hammering and flailing around with a loaded round in a plastic hammer. Can you tell I don't like kinetic bullet pullers?
 
Last edited:
Thanks again for the great knowledge, can't wait to get at 'er and post my results.

I've been keeping my lookers trained on the EE for used gear. there are some items on my list I'm well set on (e.g. SS wet tumbler) but the chrono is one that I'm not sure of, I'm more and more leaning toward a Caldwell model to start off with but magnetospeed is not completely off the table.

I unfortunately have not had the opportunity of using Mitutoyo calipers but I do appreciate good tools. I believe in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy which is the dilemma I've had while putting this kit together lol. I want quality tools that I don't have to fight with while I learn the art of making precision ammo, but I also don't want to have to mortgage the house to do so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom