baltic/russian birch stock?
- Thread starter TrxR
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I would buy 19mm Russian ply, which sells in size 5ftx5ft. Glue 2 layers with white glue and clap them with screw clamps.Torque by your hands is the pressure you need.Expect that it will be hard to carve the stock, because the glue in the plywood dulls tools pretty fast. Cut roughly to the shape and glue a piece of ply on each side of the stock where it's wider for the trigger group and magazine. Cut the 19mm ply in half for those pieces.
Ive used Baltic birch to make skateboards. Nice wood but there is sometimes hidden imperfections in the plys. Be sure to find a good supplier. Titebond 3 glue is excellent for this kind of application, very strong, waterproof and workable. Sounds like a fun project. I might have to try this.
I’ve made stocks with it in the past . the thicker the better . glued with regular white wood glue. clamped in a workmate. inletted with a router , outside profiles with grinder and belt sanders.
problem. baltic has the venere layers in opposite directions and looks like crap when it is finished.
rutland plywood sells a product called Stratabond this is what laminated stocks are made from, it looks great when finished .
for the amount of money you will spend on baltic down there. you should be able to track down a cheap piece of black walnut .
problem. baltic has the venere layers in opposite directions and looks like crap when it is finished.
rutland plywood sells a product called Stratabond this is what laminated stocks are made from, it looks great when finished .
for the amount of money you will spend on baltic down there. you should be able to track down a cheap piece of black walnut .
Robert Bury in Moncton is a great source for all kinds of speciality wood working products. They sell to the general public as well.
http://robertbury.com/
Can I ask why you would choose white glue over a weather proof, and in my opinion better, glue like Titebond? Not trying to start anything, legitimately curious.
Layers of the ply will delaminate before the white glue does. I had made patterns from Baltic ply for a foundry. After many years of using it and when wasn't needed anymore, it was thrown outside. After a few months in the rain, the ply layers delaminated, but the white glue was still holding everything together.
Glue: Titebond-lay a good layer of glue on both surfaces.
Clamps: If you have access to Jorgensen parallel clamps. C clamps or similar are good too. Clamp the build up tight but don’t squeeze all the glue out. Don’t want a dry joint.
I initially thought 19mm Baltic birch. Just to be different I would laminate 10 or 12mm BB on the sides and solid birch or maple in the middle.
Good luck
BTW, I get my B.B. from Oliver lumber but they are in Ontario. I’ve seen online retailers or I’m sure you could find local vendors.
Clamps: If you have access to Jorgensen parallel clamps. C clamps or similar are good too. Clamp the build up tight but don’t squeeze all the glue out. Don’t want a dry joint.
I initially thought 19mm Baltic birch. Just to be different I would laminate 10 or 12mm BB on the sides and solid birch or maple in the middle.
Good luck
BTW, I get my B.B. from Oliver lumber but they are in Ontario. I’ve seen online retailers or I’m sure you could find local vendors.
I don’t know the pricing for 19mm ply. I was using 1/8 BB to build skateboards. If I recall the 5x5 1/8 sheets were only $6 each. The 19mm will obviously be more.
I would definitely avoid the temptation to buy the wood at Home Depot or other big box store. I don’t think you’ll get the results you want from there. Paying a little more will give you a nicer, stronger and better stock in the long run.
The guys at Robert Bury would be able to tell you what might be a better ply for the application. They sell all types of exotic wood. They were great to deal with when I asked about the best wood for the boards and they get right into it. They even wanted to see some when I had finished.
I contacted them at Robert Bury but they said they dont sell to the public . Said i woukd have to go through Home Hardware or Kents. It almost sounded like they supplied them with the baltic birch.
By the way did you use to live in Bellisle and build snowboards as well?
By the way did you use to live in Bellisle and build snowboards as well?
Solid walnut is lighter then birch ply.
If you use 19mm Baltic birch, cut it about 4'' longer. Clamp 2 pieces together and at each end drill 1/4'' hole for 1/4'' dowel. Take it apart and route recesses in one half for the receiver. Copy it on the other half. Spread the white glue on both pieces, stick them together, drive 1/4'' dowel at both ends and clamp them together.
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Sorry to hear. I’ve never had an issue there. Maybe they changed their policy.
No snowboard building for me....yet. I’ve contemplated it and skim boards (small surf boards) for the beach. Snowboards would invlove including a base and edge, so much more technical. But fun.
when I was experimenting with the baltic ,that was the glue I had on hand , the stocks are over 10 years old now, with no issues .
Titebond is good if you laminate a curved part with thin stripes. If you glue two pieces of ply together, the bond is only between the two inside veneers. So, Titebond doesn't
prevent the delamination of the plywood.
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I worked at a hardwood veneer/plywood mill for years, we used birch and poplar. Made underlay for when you put in a new floor and hockey stick shafts.
The underlay was laid up with a water based glue and will delaminate over time when exposed unprotected to the outside elements. The hockey stick panels were laid up using a ureatha glue which is more resistant to the outside elements where many hockey sticks are used.
The underlay was laid up with a water based glue and will delaminate over time when exposed unprotected to the outside elements. The hockey stick panels were laid up using a ureatha glue which is more resistant to the outside elements where many hockey sticks are used.
