Gun blue advice.

Riven

Riven

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Location
Burks Falls Ontario
I just purchased an old cooey and was thinking about redoing the barrel as it has no bluing left at all. I cant decide if i want to rust blue it, use Birtchwood Casey plum brown or their super blue.
I have never had any luck with any cold blue i have tried yet.
Setting up to boil a 27" barrel for rust blue is surly going to bother my wife when i use her stove top so im left with plum brown as my only option.
Unles someone has something to add on the super blue working beter than others.

Thanks
 
Riven said:
I just purchased an old cooey and was thinking about redoing the barrel as it has no bluing left at all. I cant decide if i want to rust blue it, use Birtchwood Casey plum brown or their super blue.
I have never had any luck with any cold blue i have tried yet.
Setting up to boil a 27" barrel for rust blue is surly going to bother my wife when i use her stove top so im left with plum brown as my only option.
Unles someone has something to add on the super blue working beter than others.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I've had impressive results with Outers cold bluing. Strip, clean, clean again and clean some more, apply 3 or 4 coats of solution, go away, come back, wipe and polish and wowzers.
 
I too have used the Outers Cold Blue with decent enough results. Do as Dirtyharry said and it will work. I heat the parts with boiling water for the first coat of bluing, and then give it enough coats to where it doesn't get any darker. I may not use it on an expensive collector gun, but for you run of the mill guns its good enough.
 
I've done a few with super blue with awesome results .
but you need a lathe to get the best results .
I strip the barrel/receiver . put it in the lathe & turn the assembly & polish with emery cloth .
Then 2 coats of super blue as per directions on the bottle & they look new
 
So its better to have the metal for better penatration?

I work at MBRP performance exhaust so i was going to bring the parts in and give them a mirror polish before bluing.
 
Riven said:
So its better to have the metal for better penatration?

I work at MBRP performance exhaust so i was going to bring the parts in and give them a mirror polish before bluing.
Click to expand...

All of the cold blues I have used require a substrate base - that is to say polished to around 400 grit. The solution is basically a mild acid & will 'rust' off the scratch pattern...

take a peek here, https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1575963-Just-somethin-I-been-working-on-JOB-COMPLETE!/page14 there are some examples of PJs stuff and on the next page some pics of my bluing setup :)

any sort of bluing, keep in mind:

- CLEAN! clean-clean-clean degrease that metal and use gloves.
- any defect in the metal (dents deep scratches) will be more visible, so be prepared to live with them or grind them out if you have the material.
-
 
Same here! Redid all the metal on a beat up Mosin carbine, made it look pretty darn close to the factory blue (black)!

dirtybarry said:
I've had impressive results with Outers cold bluing. Strip, clean, clean again and clean some more, apply 3 or 4 coats of solution, go away, come back, wipe and polish and wowzers.
Click to expand...
 
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