I thought that a Winchester 12 became a 1200 somewhere in the 60's and then it became a 1300 somewhere in the 80's. So the newest model 12 would have to be from the early 60's wouldn't it? I have my dad's old 1200 and it was bought new in the late 60's
Winchester mod12
- Thread starter Gldnbear
- Start date
I have two of the japanese made model 12 in 28ga and one I call real one winchester made way back but forget about that I know what she is
One of the two I know it is browning since it is NIB and has a fixed choke
The other has always confused me. I didnot buy it new , japanese made and it is not marked browning or winchester but it came with factory installed choke tubes. Briley tubes
Could it possibly be one of the guns made for winchester
Cheers
Just looked, there’s no “Y” in the Sin#, just numbers.barrel says Winchester , made in the USA. . Odd thing , I just tried dry firing it, it went click but it doesn’t open unless I depress the release on the rear of the trigger guard? What’s the deal with that? Or do I want to know lol
Sin# according to the charts I found says it is 1963- #19597xx. Very near the end of the line.
Sin# according to the charts I found says it is 1963- #19597xx. Very near the end of the line.
Have you opened it up/cleaned it?
I just cycled mine a couple of time and if I depress the trigger, I dont need to press the release button...
Keep forward 'tension' on the handguard as you're handling it the gun... should cycle
Also, pics would help for reassuring you. Take a pic of the barrel markings, under where it meets with the receiver where the arrows line up.
Last edited:
Just pulling it down for the first time , watching some videos of how this thing comes apart, got it apart but and ya looks as if it could use a good cleaning and lube... another day , but I’ll be damned if I can’t get it back together, I can’t get those arrows to line up for the life of me, seems like about a half inch of turn to go still and no go. Don’t have time to dig into it now but now I’m frustrated as to why I can’t get it right.Have you opened it up/cleaned it?
I just cycled mine a couple of time and if I depress the trigger, I dont need to press the release button...
Keep forward 'tension' on the handguard as you're handling it the gun... should cycle
Also, pics would help for reassuring you. Take a pic of the barrel markings, under where it meets with the receiver where the arrows line up.
Whatever you do, DONT FORCE IT IN!
If you can't get it in properly, I'll buy the 12 from you for 50$ for a 'damaged' gun
haha
the spank
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Planet Earth Wearing My Tinfoil Hat
Make sure you have the pump handle fully forward so the slide rail doesn’t come into contact with the outside of the receiver. Turn the barrel assembly on its side to the right side of the receiver as viewed from above and line up the barrel lug with the receiver. The threaded portion of the barrel lug should be lined up with the non threaded portion in the top of the reciever. Slide the lug all the way into the receiver. Turn the barrel assembly to the left. Once the arrows line up slide the pump handle rearward fully, and then slide the mag tube rearward if it did not go rearward with the pump handle and grab the lock pin on the end of the mag tube and turn the mag tube until it stops then push the lock pin through to the other side intil it snaps into place.
The easiest way to remember is everything you did in the order to take it apart you do in reverse order to assemble.
Last edited:
Ya I was getting the treaded barrel portion in and turning correctly, couldn’t get the mag tube to turn all the way over, I pushed the lock pin all the way completely through and I was able to create a bit more leverage on the tube to get it where it needed to get to. I’m guessing this gun has not been apart in a very long time, I’ll go through it on the weekend and clean and lube the hell out of it.
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
You can thank the genius of John Browning for that.
The slide unlocks only after the hammer has dropped and slight forward pressure on the pump handle/bolt carrier which will unlock it from the top of the receiver.
You will only notice this during dry firing.
When you actually fire the shotgun, the recoil of the fired shell will automatically achieve this for you.
It's to ensure that there is no way you can simultaneously pull the trigger and have the bolt out of battery, also ensures the bolt has to be fully locked in battery to drop the hammer.
When you use the action unlock you are actually forcing a hook to rotate forward on the trigger assembly which catches/pulls down the hammer slightly which unlocks the action as well.
Brilliant design.
One of the reasons they had to go away from the Model 12 design is because it's actually the receiver which takes the brunt of the fired shell. The ass end of the bolt tilts up and mates into a recess in the upper receiver when in full battery for firing. So 100% of the recoil is transferred to the receiver. This is why the quality and robustness of the steel and receiver/bolt etc have to be so high. The cost to produce this (among many other aspects) started to outweigh what they could expect people to pay for it.
The Model 1200/1300 went to a camming/rotating locking bolt which contains the recoil in the barrel chamber similar to the concept of the AR15 actually. Receiver materials could then be drastically reduced in strength and quality and dropped the overall cost to produce significantly.
Last edited:
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Soo... built like a tank
Yes exactly.
To be fair it's not just the Model 12. The Ithaca 37 and other slide action shotguns of the same era are just as robust and made of the same quality steel/craftsmanship no longer seen.
I just personally think the Model 12 is the king of them all for the simplicity and brilliance of the design.
Being able to easily adjust the tension/fit of the barrel to receiver over time in 30 seconds with a small flat head driver, unload the shotgun without cycling shells, dead reliability and unbreakable nature, can be taken down into two pieces in seconds etc Just awesome.
There's a reason it was also the primary combat shotgun of the US military for over 50 years from WWI and even into Vietnam. Not the only one by far but the most used/standardized of all the first gen combat shotguns for good reason.
That would figure, I was surprised how heavy the receiver portion feels after the gun is apart. You can tell there’s a significant chunk of steel there. I’m used to my wing master, not even close in weight comparison on the receiver. Interesting gun, I can’t wait to get more familiar with it.
Yeah.. I also just got a second barrel that I'm gonna cut to 20" and affix to the trench shield I got a couple of weeks ago
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Yeah.. I also just got a second barrel that I'm gonna cut to 20" and affix to the trench shield I got a couple of weeks ago
Sweet! Post some pics up of that thing when you get it on there.
Mine is at 20" with open cylinder. Cut, flushed up and I drilled and tapped it for a brass bead sight myself.
Just bad ass. Too much fun to blow up pumpkins and jugs of tap water etc
I only keep one firearm in the bedroom for defense and it's the model 12 with heavy game load 2-3/4" shells.
Stored legally of course! But readily accessible.
Here is the 1918 made all original one I rebuilt/refinished (purists take note it was literally shot; broken parts, no finish, considerable surface rust, rear stock was split down the length etc):
I'm keeping the 28" Mod barrel config for Ducks.. Heck might even get rid of my beretta A400
Will cut the 30" Full barrel to 20". I was told that 30" Full barrels are more common than 28" Mod ones.
Will cut the 30" Full barrel to 20". I was told that 30" Full barrels are more common than 28" Mod ones.
Last edited:
