Truoil too glossy
- Thread starter lledwod
- Start date
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When I use tru oil , I brush on real thin, then hand rub till it feels dry, wait a few hrs and repeat, if too glossy, rub it out more, You could use a rubbing compound , auto stuff, and see how that works, it has fine grit in it.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
If I want to reduce a gloss finish I use 0000 or finer steel wool, even a fine grit scotchbrite pad would work well, lightly buff it down till you hit a level of lustre you are happy with.
Tung oil is the gear. Next time try pure Tung oil. It gives a more durable low luster than Tru Oil. The Paint Shop Carries the pure stuff. IMHO it's superior to both TrueOil and BLO, which has almost no water repellency. I found a great use for my only bottle of TruOil. It did wonders for the leather uppers on my old Bean field boots. A liter of pure tung oil costs less than what is it four ounces in that wee TrueOil bottle!
Tru-Oil is a durable finish that can be any level of gloss you want - just cut back the gloss. Many custom gunsmiths use Tru-Oil. Before Tru-Oil hit the market the finish of choice was GB Linspeed. There are other polymerizing finishes like True Oil from the high price specialty gunsmith suppliers, but none is appreciably superior, in my experience.
Tung Oil is a serious allergen to many people. It won't be used on my gunstocks. Tung Oil and BLO do not polymerize to a hard surface like Tru-Oil - they get a sticky surface on a hot summer day.
Tung Oil is a serious allergen to many people. It won't be used on my gunstocks. Tung Oil and BLO do not polymerize to a hard surface like Tru-Oil - they get a sticky surface on a hot summer day.
redneckchris
CGN Regular
- Location
- komoka ontario
I used True Oil once. Terrible stuff. Gummed up my trigger.
3 in 1 is better.
???
Why are you putting this on your trigger?
3 in 1 is better.
???
Why are you putting this on your trigger?
Oh; I'm so gonna use that.I have used Tru oil, BLO, polymerized tung oil and pure tung oil and combinations of the above. Polymerized tung oil and try oil dry too fast for me and are glossy. BLO and pure tung oil take weeks for a coat to dry. Lately I use try oil for the first coat, then wet sand with 400 or 600 wet/dry paper using BLO. there are enough hardeners still present to cure the BLO quicker. then repeat until you get the grain completely filled and the desired finish.
Best advice this week.
But, I digress WD-40 is more better all around.
I wonder how the OP and his project are making out.
ROb
Well! Thanks for all the input CGN. I really appreciate the variety of ideas here, I need some time to digest; you guys have an amazing volume of experience! The glossy stock in question sits on wooden pegs above my work bench for now as I am working on, and getting close to finishing, a butt stock for a savage 99. I'll update once I've decided decided upon a course of action. If I find a sliver of time maybe I'll post some photos as well 
I use a product called "Sherell's Schaftol" with good results. It's made in Germany and gives a traditional hand rubbed finish that I like, not high gloss, but a nice low gloss. I get it from Bits of Pieces in Delta, B C.( info at bitsofpieces dot com)
He yewsed tuh gift wee kapzewlzs out at one time.
Nice chit, but me pense lawtzs needs tuh be yewsed.
So heres my 1st attempt at forming a stock for a rifle. I got a good deal from a great member on here on this 1926 vintage model 99 in .303 savage due to the cracked butt. (I already had brass and dies kicking around). This rifle is for my partner, who is recoil sensitive, and prefers iron sights. So far she likes it more than any other rifle I have tried on her, even with the steel cresent butt. I started with a plank of rough walnut I picked up at a small mill in Quebec. I did my best to fit it to her, starting with a shorter length of pull, and raising the comb and moving it over to compensate for a smaller face. Also worked some cast off into it.
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Heres the rifle with the original stock, which I repaired,
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And some close ups of the new stock, which is far far from perfect! I am OK with the results, as long as it is functional and doesn't break. This will be primarily a camp/beater rifle for my partner.
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And the finished product;
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PS the finish is tung oil, 2 coats. I would do more coats but time runs out and we're hoping to take the 99 bear hunting soon.
Heres the rifle with the original stock, which I repaired,
And some close ups of the new stock, which is far far from perfect! I am OK with the results, as long as it is functional and doesn't break. This will be primarily a camp/beater rifle for my partner.
And the finished product;
PS the finish is tung oil, 2 coats. I would do more coats but time runs out and we're hoping to take the 99 bear hunting soon.
So heres my 1st attempt at forming a stock for a rifle. I got a good deal from a great member on here on this 1926 vintage model 99 in .303 savage due to the cracked butt. (I already had brass and dies kicking around). This rifle is for my partner, who is recoil sensitive, and prefers iron sights. So far she likes it more than any other rifle I have tried on her, even with the steel cresent butt. I started with a plank of rough walnut I picked up at a small mill in Quebec. I did my best to fit it to her, starting with a shorter length of pull, and raising the comb and moving it over to compensate for a smaller face. Also worked some cast off into it.
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
Heres the rifle with the original stock, which I repaired,
[/IMG]
And some close ups of the new stock, which is far far from perfect! I am OK with the results, as long as it is functional and doesn't break. This will be primarily a camp/beater rifle for my partner.
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
And the finished product;
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
PS the finish is tung oil, 2 coats. I would do more coats but time runs out and we're hoping to take the 99 bear hunting soon.
May I suggest beeswax top coated with carnauba and buff the chit out of it.
