How often do you dissemble your Type 81 bolt completely to clean?

qiu_lijie

qiu_lijie

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Hi CGN,

Still relatively new to the sport here. I went out to shoot my own rifle for the first time today, went through some corrosive surplus ammo. When I got back, I used the hot water method to clean my rifle. Upon closer inspection, there were some surface rust forming on the bolt face, so I proceeded to dissemble the bolt completely and clean each parts. Those rust scrubbed right off with a brush, and I don’t think any lasting damage was done.

However, during the dissembly of the bolt, I found out a few parts are friction fitted, and repeatedly doing this is probably gonna losen the parts. So my question is do you guys always dissemble the bolt completely after shooting corrosive? If not, how do you effectively clean the small gaps between different parts of the bolt? Most of the info I found online either doesn’t dissemble the bolt, or just doesn’t mention anything about it.

Thanks
 
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qiu_lijie said:
Hi CGN,

Still relatively new to the sport here. I went out to shoot my own rifle for the first time today, went through some corrosive surplus ammo. When I got back, I used the hot water method to clean my rifle. Upon closer inspection, there were some surface rust forming on the bolt face, so I proceeded to dissemble the bolt completely and clean each parts. Those rust scrubbed right off with a brush, and I don’t think any lasting damage was done.

However, during the dissembly of the bolt, I found out a few parts are friction fitted, and repeatedly doing this is probably gonna losen the parts. So my question is do you guys always dissemble the bolt completely after shooting corrosive? If not, how do you effectively clean the small gaps between different parts of the bolt? Most of the info I found online either doesn’t dissemble the bolt, or just doesn’t mention anything about it.

Thanks
Click to expand...
When you get your new to you sks, you strip it right down, including the bolt, make sure you get right in the firing pin chamber ,useing everything from eds red to brake cleaner, I use pipe cleaners to help, when you look through the firing pin channel it should be clean and shiny, most say you shouldn't oil it after cleaning, I wipe the pin down with a slightly oily rag! After shooting the sks you pour boiling water down the bore, I use a funnel and let it splash around the receiver etc and also pour it over the bolt face etc., THEN after it dries you clean as with any normal semi auto firearm! Spray brake cleaner in and around the firing pin and channel, you don't necessarily have to take it apart, BUT, when you shake the cleaned, dried bolt it should rattle very well and not a dull thud rattle but a nice metal on metal rattle! Make sure you get boiling water in and around the disassembled gas tube also, and dry well, the heat from the boiling water will help with this! Everyone has a bit different way of doing it but basically it's all the same! Take the bolt apart on occasion to make sure there is not any buildup of grime and residue! If the pin becomes a bit loose over time, you can very carefully peen the pin to make it snug again, or if you are apprehensive on doing this then take it to a good Smith or machinist!
 
I strip for first cleaning. After that scalding hot water and or light spray cleaner WD40 or similar. As mentioned the pins do come loose, some require an inordinate amount of force to move, so be carful. There are two types pin and no pin, the no pin can get loose and peen/wear/crud up too, so inspect often.
 
Thanks for all the responses guys. I got an used type 81, not an SKS, so I don’t have to worry about cosmoline in the bolt. However, I do need some cleaner in aerosol form, so I can spray it down in the future.
 
qiu_lijie said:
Thanks for all the responses guys. I got an used type 81, not an SKS, so I don’t have to worry about cosmoline in the bolt. However, I do need some cleaner in aerosol form, so I can spray it down in the future.
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Sorry, assumed an sks, maybe someone who has a type 81 can chime in, but if you are shooting corrosive, then you still need to get rid of the salts from the primer, hot water is still your friend!
 
bobdbldr said:
Sorry, assumed an sks, maybe someone who has a type 81 can chime in, but if you are shooting corrosive, then you still need to get rid of the salts from the primer, hot water is still your friend!
Click to expand...

No worries. It's a reasonable assumption anyways. I think what you said apply to any rifle shooting corrosive.

I'm just wondering that you said not to overly oil the firing pin, how do you make sure it's dry without taking it apart if you spray cleaner all over it? Do you use pressurized air or just let it ran out?
 
qiu_lijie said:
No worries. It's a reasonable assumption anyways. I think what you said apply to any rifle shooting corrosive.

I'm just wondering that you said not to overly oil the firing pin, how do you make sure it's dry without taking it apart if you spray cleaner all over it? Do you use pressurized air or just let it ran out?
Click to expand...
The type81 may be different, but air pressure would help, to get cleaner out, you can also use spray brake cleaner and that will dry very quickly, as I said the type 81 setup may be ok to oil a bit! I would have thought another type 81 owner would have commented by now! Maybe change your thread label to add type 81 bolt!
 
bobdbldr said:
The type81 may be different, but air pressure would help, to get cleaner out, you can also use spray brake cleaner and that will dry very quickly, as I said the type 81 setup may be ok to oil a bit! I would have thought another type 81 owner would have commented by now! Maybe change your thread label to add type 81 bolt!
Click to expand...

Once again thanks for your help! Not sure how to change the thread label thou.
 
I field strip mine down after every range trip.
Bolt/carrier, piston, gas plug all go into a cheap cooking pot.
Then I pour home made Eds Red on them. Swish it around to get it all covered. Let it sit.
Get a syringe and suck up some Eds and spray it down the bore from the chamber end. Squirt some inside the gas block.
Let it sit while you wipe down the inside of the dust cover too and the inside of the upper handguard with Eds red.
Then just wipe all parts down with an old rag etc Use a toothbrush if you need to but there's no real reason. The solution melts carbon and anything else away like easily taking any carbon containing salt residue with it.
Once all the parts are brushed and wiped, just a light coat of any generic brand oil and a quick pull through on the bore and good to go.
Any leftover Eds red gets dumped back into the can through a funnel screen and reused.
I've shot 800 rounds of corrosive ammo through it already over 4 range trips. Not a hint of rust.
It's fast, dirt cheap and highly effective. The solution has ATF in it so any left on the gun will also act as lubribcant and preservative.
Just wear rubber gloves. This whole process uses about 500ml of Eds red (which you screen and reuse if you're smart) and takes about 15 minutes max.
Don't worry about wearing out your gun comrade. The violence of firing 5 rounds will cause more wear than 1000 strip and clean cycles especially on these tanks.
I don't even bother pouring water on parts anymore since I developed this method.
It works for any and all guns firing corrosive ammo. I only shot corrosive red rifles for years when I got ino shooting. This is the fastest and most efficient method I've devised.
Happy shooting!
 
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Like virtually never. Just gotta be sure to submerge the bolt in scalding hot water for a while (IF YOUR SHOOTING CORROSIVE) .... pull it out with BBQ tongs and air compressor it dry, quickly followed by liberal amounts of high viscosity oil like hoppes 9. Frequent disassembly of parts like the bolt is asking for trouble. You can wear out vital pins and loose hard to find parts.

 
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