Off center tail stock attachment
- Thread starter Grizzly Adams
- Start date
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/lathe-jigs-kits/2019-ptg-adjustable-tailstock.html
I've seen some on eBay too awhile ago.
I've seen some on eBay too awhile ago.
This is a offset center I made from a two inch boring head and a Morse taper. Turned down the shaft on a small live center to 1/2 inch and inserted it into tool hole. Locked in to place with the set screw.
Bought the boring head and tapered shaft off of Amazon for around $110. I had the small live center on hand.
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It doesn't have to be fancy... I made this one quickly about 40 years ago. It is crude and simple but it is repeatable and it gets the job done.
Thanks Gentlemen, I think I have another project.
Looking through the bits and pieces that came with my lathe, the last owner was working on something like that.Grizz
It doesn't have to be fancy... I made this one quickly about 40 years ago. It is crude and simple but it is repeatable and it gets the job done.
I like it. Looks like I too have another project on the horizon.
A question:
The live centre is to the left of centre in the picture while the adjustment bolts are at hard right. Are there two sets of tapped holes in the movable plate to allow for more lateral adjustment?
Exactly, keep in mind that this is only half the angle because it's offsetting the center axis. The conical angle you turn is doubled. So a little goes a long way as GT is suggesting.
One advantage of guntech's version is that the long flat edges makes it easy to put a short level on it when setting the arbor in the tailstock. By eye is generally going to be fine. But if you want a very specific angle then keeping the offset "flat" with a level instead of just by eye is just one more little detail..... come to think of it you don't really need it level so much as parallel to the bed. So if your lathe isn't level then rig something to measure side to side if you don't trust your Mk 1 eyeball.
It would not be hard to include some sort of adjuster screw either with GT's version. Either weld or screw a base leg on one end to make one of the plates an "L" shape or just have an adjuster screw push against one of the lightly snugged locking screw shanks.
The other issue is that the cone in the live center is going to become loaded in a bend with the offset. For small amounts such as a tapered barrel exterior this isn't a big deal. But if you start doing more significant angles then one trick I saw in an older book was a live center point which was rounded on the end. The round end fits into the conical center hole of the part being turned or into the bore plug you're using and puts much less side load on the live center bearings. But to make that work well you'd need a live center that has interchangeable points. In which case it's quite likely that it comes with such a tip.
I must be missing something.
My point was, assuming the index marks indicate zero offset, it seems the location of the locking bolts being to the hard right in the photo (if they truly are) would prevent adjusting the head to the right for zero or less offset.
Perhaps I am just a little more dense than usual these days
My point was, assuming the index marks indicate zero offset, it seems the location of the locking bolts being to the hard right in the photo (if they truly are) would prevent adjusting the head to the right for zero or less offset.
Perhaps I am just a little more dense than usual these days
I must be missing something.
My point was, assuming the index marks indicate zero offset, it seems the location of the locking bolts being to the hard right in the photo (if they truly are) would prevent adjusting the head to the right for zero or less offset.
Perhaps I am just a little more dense than usual these days
The two big indexing marks line up when the live center is on center and in reality that is about as far right as the center will adjust. It only needs to adjust in one direction (muzzle closer) from center, and it has plenty of that adjustment. It is used for contouring rifle barrels in the lathe, a dead center in the head stock with a face plate driving the 'dogged' barrel. The tailstock offset to cut the taper. The bolts are threaded into the front piece.
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Thanks Gentlemen, I think I have another project.
Grizz
In time you will come to realize that "hobby machining" was invented so we could spend all our time building assorted tooling & jigs that "we might eventually" get time to use on an actual project...
Oh how true that is.... oh how true....
If making tools and items for other shop uses not related to metal working can be considered as "projects" and not "tooling" then I've done a lot of "projects". But when I look back on it ALL my machining has been used as tooling or servicing parts for other hobbies. I've yet to make an "engine" or a "gun" or anything else that can stand alone as a "project".
Oh wait. I did use the machines and welder to make a bunch of popper targets. OK, so ONE project.....
