Can't get my firing pin out

TrollGRG

TrollGRG

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I have a Winchester 92 in .357 built by Miroku . I want to take the firing pin out (it is slightly bent). I stripped it down to the breach block but cannot get access to the firing pin. I am used to the blocks having a small pin that you have to punch out that releases the pin to slide free. The only pin I can find on this one holds the ejector. I even took that off to see if there was another pin hidden underneath somewhere but no luck.

Any and all help greatly appreciated. Don't bother telling me to drive over it with my truck, I am already considering it ;o)

Gerry
 
I don't understand how you determined it is bent if you can't get it out of the breech block... has the rifle developed symptoms of a faulty firing pin?
 
guntech said:
I don't understand how you determined it is bent if you can't get it out of the breech block... has the rifle developed symptoms of a faulty firing pin?
Click to expand...

Yes - occasional misfire - light strikes. That is why I wanted to get it out to start with. The part that sticks out and strikes the primer is canted a bit to one side. By occasionally I mean it can fire 8 or ten then misfire 2 or 3.

When I got it down to the block it is easy to see the little pin sticking out the end. It is free in that if I turn the block up it will fall back into the recess then when I turn it down it falls out again. At the other end I have access to the back side of the firing pin/mechanism. It is spring loaded and sticks out a bit. I can depress it (push it in) then when I let it go it pops back out. Not really a pop - just can't think of the right word right now.

Is that any clearer or am I just making it worse?
 
Reloads. I am not even considering that as all variables are exactly the same.

It doesn't matter what bullets I am using because my problem now is that I want to get that damn firing pin out. I can worry about the light strikes another time.
 
I'm not sure about the 92 Japchesters but the 86's have a "rebounding hammer" set-up that causes a lot of problems the same as you describe, I would suspect this is the problem not the firing pin if, as you say it is "free moving" in the bolt. You say you only use reloads and that could be compounding the rebound hammer problem if your primers are one of the "harder to detonate" varieties. I have never had any problems with any Jap using Federal primers.

There is a couple of "fix's" for the hammer issue that you can Google.
 
TrollGRG said:
Reloads. I am not even considering that as all variables are exactly the same.

It doesn't matter what bullets I am using because my problem now is that I want to get that damn firing pin out. I can worry about the light strikes another time.
Click to expand...

Well if it works with factory loads and not your reloads you know where the problem lies... that is an age old problem with misfiring... the quality of the reload... primers need to be fully seated to become most sensitive and in the majority of misfires the primer is sitting high.

It's been so many years since I had my 44 mag 92, I don't remember just how the pin comes out... but it isn't the problem...
 
I haven't used factory loads in this gun ever. I load with a single stage press and do most things by hand. Each round I produce has gone through no less than six visual and tactile tests.

If anyone can provide me with a link to a "fix" on google I would appreciate it. I've looked a lot but found nothing.

Right now my problem is not the light strikes. It is getting the pin out. I don't care about the misfires at this time. Once I get the pin out and had a good look around then I can get back to the initial problem. My curiosity may just kill me one day :eek:)
 
remove part PO72130 firing pin stop pin
image.jpg

remove part PO72130 firing pin stop pin
 
I saw that diagram and it confirmed exactly what I was expecting. The pin and the placement of it was what I anticipated but (big but) there is no pin there or any where else except for the extractor pin. I've shown the block to other shooters from my club and they are just as baffled.

Maybe I can get a couple of good pics so you can see what I mean although I don't know if I can upload them here - I'll try.
 
I would start tapping a 1/8 straight punch on the far side... move the punch around, eventually a pin should move...

as odd as it may sound you could even take it to a gunsmith...
 
If you don't know what you are doing best pay someone who does.Learn on a beater or perhaps he'll let you watch him take it apart. Bet there is a piece of primer in the firing pin hole.
 
my favorite kind of repair, the ones that the customer tries to do themselves, damages pins or screws, manages to disassemble and puts it all into a ziploc bag when can't reassemble and expects the gunsmith to quickly reassemble at little or no charge for time, only to discover a missing piece or that the owner has damaged parts beyond using.

have you tried thoroughly cleaning the bolt assembly to clear a piece of stuck crud, powder residue, excess oil etc from the action that could just be in there enough to be causing unreliable firing or operation of the component?
 
TrollGRG said:
I have a Winchester 92 in .357 built by Miroku . I want to take the firing pin out (it is slightly bent). I stripped it down to the breach block but cannot get access to the firing pin. I am used to the blocks having a small pin that you have to punch out that releases the pin to slide free. The only pin I can find on this one holds the ejector. I even took that off to see if there was another pin hidden underneath somewhere but no luck.

Any and all help greatly appreciated. Don't bother telling me to drive over it with my truck, I am already considering it ;o)

Gerry
Click to expand...

Only the one pin? that seems extremely odd - I'd be interested in pics of this bolt to see how different it is from a real 92....

Also what may be happening that I have seen, your firing pin may be mushroomed slightly - not sure what sort of quality Miroku is, but improperly hardened/cheap pins will mushroom at the rear from the impact of the hammer and also at the front from impacting the rear of the bolt face making the pin too wide to pass through the back of the bolt. You might have to drive it out with a punch. Long shot, but - that could also be causing the light strikes if the rear of the pin is too deformed to enter the back of the bolt - or deformed enough to slow it down.

but look for that second pin first - there HAS to be something holding the firing pin captive.
 
Does this help? Apparently it is the Schematic for the Miroku.... Is your firing pin actually a multi part affair?

Winchester_1892Japan_schem.jpg


I'll be darned - only the one pin/hole
1343010.jpg



Pin looks pretty straight forward
1343800.jpg



Kinda looks like the only thing keeping the firing pin captive was the finger lever pin.... How far out the back of the block will it go?
 
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Damn - you got it dude

That is the first pic I've seen on the internet that does show the block without all those extra holes/pins.

I've had some pretty weird ideas and some real asinine comments here but you are the first one to talk straight.

I did finally figure it out. The back end of the pin sticks out from the block a bit so all you have to do is push it in and twist it and the whole pin rotates and comes out the back end. The first time I tried it I was using a pair of needle nose pliers but that didn't work - I didn't realize it at the time but I couldn't push it in far enough because of the thickness of the pliers. I used a screwdriver and it worked.

The little pin that strikes the primer was broken off - the spring was holding it in place enough to effect the little dimple indicating a strike.

Cheers

Gerry
 
Glad it worked out for you, FWIW the pin is available from Numrich: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1343800 but will be like $150 by the time you get it shipped + exchange etc!!

what I did with a broken tip on another 92 pin was to cut the remaining bit of the tip off, drill a hole into the pin where the tip used to be and cut/ground a piece of drill rod to replace it. that was held in place with a cross pin as well. that way the tip is not 'replaceable' in case it ever happens to break again.
 
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