Will most P226 parts fit into the NP22?
- Thread starter lavino
- Start date
...but why? NP22 barrel works fine. 10 m one ragged hole
recoil spring, decocker spring, trigger bar spring - work ok
slide lock spring - stiffer than the original, slide lock may or may not engage properly
mainspring assembly bits fit and work ok, as well as most grips, including E2 kit
recoil spring, decocker spring, trigger bar spring - work ok
slide lock spring - stiffer than the original, slide lock may or may not engage properly
mainspring assembly bits fit and work ok, as well as most grips, including E2 kit
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...P-22-All-forum-threads-and-useful-information
Don't know how to post it properly, but there is a thread with all the info you're looking for
Don't know how to post it properly, but there is a thread with all the info you're looking for
Cameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
I own both the NP22 (10 years, ~20k rounds) and the Sig 226 Mk 25 (3 years, ~4k rounds). I own Norc, Mec-gar, and Sig mags.
Sig mags functional only in the Sig, they will not lock up on the mag catch in the Norc. Do not file these mags to fit, as they are expensive and will then be sloppy in the Sig as well.
Mec-gar and Norc mags function in both without issue, although you will likely be dissatisfied with how much play there is with the Norc Mags in a Sig. But they are less than half the price and do function perfectly.
I just spend the last 10 minutes mixing and matching the easy stuff.
Barrels, guide rods and recoil springs are fully interchangeable.
Sig slide complete will fit, function and fire with a norc lower.
Norc lower will not fit on the sig lower. Too tight.
I did not play with triggers. I can see some minor variations in tolerances on some of the trigger mech parts. Not sure if those are critical, and I had no interest in disassembling them.
Not sure what you are contemplating, but here is my take:
If you love the Sig, but can't afford one, buy a Norc. You can shoot it for years at about 1/4-1/3 the price of a Sig, and until you start competing seriously, you won't be able to blame your performance on the gun.
Your biggest disappointment with the Norc will be a rough trigger and underwhelming sights. To me these are instrumental to the learning process, but that is probably debateable.
If you are contemplating buying a Norc and upgrading the sights and trigger, then just buy a used Sig and be done with it.
Even though I have upgraded to a Sig, cause I can afford one now and really love them, I have no intentions of getting rid of the NP22 because its still a good enough gun.
Norcs are good enough guns, and at a great price. But it will never be a sig.
For the money you would spend trying to turn a Norc into a Sig, you would be better off just buying the gun you want, or buying two norcs, and having two.
The only thing you should be doing with a Norc is shooting it. I have put north of 20k rds through my NP22. I have beaten it up, and since buying my Sig the abuse has gotten worse. It still holds a tighter group in the vice than I can shoot on my best day with the Sig, and the only stoppages I have ever had have been user error.
Hope this helps offer some insight. If you have more specific questions, fire away.
Sig mags functional only in the Sig, they will not lock up on the mag catch in the Norc. Do not file these mags to fit, as they are expensive and will then be sloppy in the Sig as well.
Mec-gar and Norc mags function in both without issue, although you will likely be dissatisfied with how much play there is with the Norc Mags in a Sig. But they are less than half the price and do function perfectly.
I just spend the last 10 minutes mixing and matching the easy stuff.
Barrels, guide rods and recoil springs are fully interchangeable.
Sig slide complete will fit, function and fire with a norc lower.
Norc lower will not fit on the sig lower. Too tight.
I did not play with triggers. I can see some minor variations in tolerances on some of the trigger mech parts. Not sure if those are critical, and I had no interest in disassembling them.
Not sure what you are contemplating, but here is my take:
If you love the Sig, but can't afford one, buy a Norc. You can shoot it for years at about 1/4-1/3 the price of a Sig, and until you start competing seriously, you won't be able to blame your performance on the gun.
Your biggest disappointment with the Norc will be a rough trigger and underwhelming sights. To me these are instrumental to the learning process, but that is probably debateable.
If you are contemplating buying a Norc and upgrading the sights and trigger, then just buy a used Sig and be done with it.
Even though I have upgraded to a Sig, cause I can afford one now and really love them, I have no intentions of getting rid of the NP22 because its still a good enough gun.
Norcs are good enough guns, and at a great price. But it will never be a sig.
For the money you would spend trying to turn a Norc into a Sig, you would be better off just buying the gun you want, or buying two norcs, and having two.
The only thing you should be doing with a Norc is shooting it. I have put north of 20k rds through my NP22. I have beaten it up, and since buying my Sig the abuse has gotten worse. It still holds a tighter group in the vice than I can shoot on my best day with the Sig, and the only stoppages I have ever had have been user error.
Hope this helps offer some insight. If you have more specific questions, fire away.
I am trying to see if I can lighten up the hammer spring. Is it do-able as a DIY? It is actually not the DA pull weight that really bugs me. I own a P250 which probably has the best DA trigger even compare to all my revolvers and I can stage that DA trigger (pull and hold it just before it is fire) nicely before firing (and I believe that is the proper way to fire the P250 not just pull the whole DA in one shot). The NP22 DA is so unpredictable that I cannot properly stage it. Sometimes I can... sometimes I cannot and it will just fire really early. I am not expecting it will ever be as nice as the P250 but hopefully make it smoother.
Anyone ever tried to replace that hammer spring on a NP22 and can give me some tips?
Anyone ever tried to replace that hammer spring on a NP22 and can give me some tips?
Thank you sir! Actually that is very good insight 
I asked about the original question more on the 1) if I break something in the NP22 I can still buy P226 parts to fix it and 2) trying to see if I can replace the hammer spring. Your post offer a lot of very valid points. Thanks again
I asked about the original question more on the 1) if I break something in the NP22 I can still buy P226 parts to fix it and 2) trying to see if I can replace the hammer spring. Your post offer a lot of very valid points. Thanks againCameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
I highly doubt a single hammer spring is responsible for the squishy DA pull on the NP 22. If it were that easy, for $5 I am sure Norinco would have addressed it.
I also don't think the hammer spring is the reason why you can't stage the trigger either. Typically, in order to stage the way you descrbe, something i the geometry of the trigger mechanism there would have to be a point where the tension necessary to break the shot increases, if only slightly, so that you can feel the stop, and then increase pressure to overcome it.
The Norc trigger breaks like a barrel going over the falls. Slowly at first and then all of a sudden. A lighter spring will just make that softer. I doubt you can create a nice two stage trigger effect just by changing springs.
I suspect you will need a full drop in trigger kit. Looking at brownells, the cost of drop in trigger kits for a Sig are roughly equal to the cost of the gun. For the cost of a Norc, a good Sig trigger kit, and just a little bit more, you can buy a good used Sig.
You have several options:
1. Replace stock mainspring with a lighter one. I used a 19 lbs Wolff spring for older P226, and it worked great. DA pull much improved. Tip: Norinco mainspring is very stiff and is a b!tch to remove. Slide a piece of wire between the hammer strut and the spring, compress the spring with a fork, and while holding it compressed, tie the wire. That way you can remove the roll pin and the spring base easily.
2. Get a Sig P226 E2 kit and a corresponding mainspring. With a 19 lbs Wolff the trigger is actually nice, but it may cause light primer strikes with Barnaul ammo. CCI Blazer works perfectly. I recently shot my IPSC Black Badge course with this setup.
Dry fire a lot. Put a rubber washer between the hammer and the firing pin. This will protect the firing pin and its retaining pin grom excessive wear.
Sig SRT kit might improve things further, but it also makes the system more expensive
